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Remove and lower wood in form head

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Ron C., May 25, 2009.

  1. Will I destroy the head trying to remove the antler mount wood? Using a shed system and it needs to be lowered. Have tried changing brackets but will not go low enough. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Did not find in search.
     

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  2. Bill Yox

    Bill Yox Well-Known Member

    Those antlers are about where they need to be, if the pics are accurate. If not, just cut down through the head block, chisel it out, cut as deep as you want, and foam the same piece back in. Hey what form is that? Just curious.
     

  3. frank

    frank New Member

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    If it were me,i would saw it out,remove the amount of foam needed, bondo back in. ;)
     
  4. Bill Yox

    Bill Yox Well-Known Member

    Lol, thats what I just said, except foaming it in. What did I miss? Hahahaha.
     
  5. John L

    John L Active Member

    I am with Bill on the antlers but I see how the plate could be sticking up too high. I can't come up with anything creative I would just take a saws-all to it and replace the wood where i wanted it and sculpt the muscle back. I would like to know who's form that is too.
     
  6. whitetail94

    whitetail94 New Member

    I think they are close also. I'm probably wrong, but I think it's a Matt Thompson form.
     
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Whose form is that if I might ask. "Most" forms have the skull cap base centered on the eye orbit. This form has it almost at the top of the eye orbit which has created the problem you're encountering.
     
  8. PacWest

    PacWest Active Member

    Looks just right to me. 8)
     
  9. bw

    bw New Member

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    Piece of cake to cut out the wood and foam/bondo back in. Just did it on a big set of sheds a few days ago.
     
  10. It is a Matt Thompson semi upright. My pics angles aren't great. It only needs to lower a little less than 1/2". I could be wrong. I have the real antler set right next to it. Taken in 08 and this is the 07 sheds. Thanks for all the advise.
     
  11. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)


    George is a 100% right. Before cuyying anything, slide your antlers back 3/4 inch & you may be just right, it should compensate that 1/2 inch.
     
  12. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    I don't know much, but I'm with Bill on this one. The peds look about right in relation to the eye. I think the lack of a skull is throwing everyone off because it does not look right to the eye. Try to look at the pedicel and eye and ear location while ignoring the lack of skull around it all.
    Just my thoughts, and moving it back a tad may bring it home as well.
    You could go around the wood block with a spade bit and shave a quarter inch or so off if need be.
    Just use a SHARP one and overlap your hits.
     
  13. Boxie

    Boxie New Member

    I would slip the cape on and see if you can get away with where it is now making sure the back corners of the eyes aren't pulled too much when the cape is wrapped around the burr. JMO
     
  14. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    On second glance, the peds look right, but the bracket may indeed be a bit high in the center. I never monkeyed with a bracket but I assume you can raise the peds away from the bracket itself, and therefor you will need to sink it lower in the form to get the peds back where they were to begin with, thereby giving you the clearance you need between the peds in relation to the bridge of the muzzle.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Greg there is no straight up and down adjustment. The only adjustment is circular-burr, tilt and cant.
    Michael I will give it a try tomorrow.
    Boxie I will also check the cape. I would love to not have to change a thing
    Dang George you sniffed that out quick. Right on the money again.
    Thanks guys.
     
  16. frank

    frank New Member

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    We posted at the same time bill.Did you ever think of that? geez. ::)
     
  17. ElkinsTaxidermy

    ElkinsTaxidermy www.ronelkinstaxidermy.com

    With the MT forms, the skull cap sits down in a recess....kind of like a bowl. The skin always seems to be tight between the eye and burr if you set the rack like you would on let's say a McKenzie 6500. You kind of have to look for it when using them. I think that is what George is seeing.
     
  18. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Ron, I can see WHY the skin would be tight behind the eye on those forms. The earbutts are sitting on the back side of the head. That ear butt is way too far rearward and even down a bit too far. You don't have to use my "straight line rule of thumb (not really correct on the mannikin but on the mounted deer) but superimpose a real deer skull over that thing and you'll see that it looks almost an inch too far rearward. It looks like a nice form and a nice idea, but I don't agree with the placement. Almost as bad as the Meder form.
     
  19. ElkinsTaxidermy

    ElkinsTaxidermy www.ronelkinstaxidermy.com

    I agree. I've only used a few. Really like some of the details, but you really have to watch in the eye,rack and ear areas as mentioned. The foam is really good also. I would recommend his forms....just be cautious. I've seen a lot of them posted lately. ALMOST as bad as the Meder form!LOL
     
  20. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

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    I see, George. What you are pointing out would nullify my little illustration I guess.
    We need "Meester Conley" in on this, as you affectionately like to call him.
    Then this could go 50 pages and we all would learn something.