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painting a reproduction bluegill

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by Joey Arender, Jun 28, 2009.

  1. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    as an expermient ( for me in parts)

    I been wanting to try new things, beside totally using an airbrush, and see what I could come up with. I took photos of each step along the way and kinda explained it to. photo heavy post guys...I like how it came out hope someone can better theirs or share to better mine. here goes.

    1. after all paired fins were fitted and removed and seams smoothed, I used super hide white to blend seam and appoxie at fin unions to match gel coat, I sprayed fins attached to body as well. (not paired fins)

    2.I used brunt umber to tone scale pockets. I used it lightly in light areas of the fish as per reference.

    3.steel wooled off the burnt umber and toned back in with detail green and Chocolate brown mixed 50/50. I went heavy on back and light in the lite colored areas of the fish. steel wooled again. Then while toning in this time I hit the areas like cheeks, vertical bars, and top of head a little extra. then lightly steel wooled again and toned whole fish back in one last time. I know its a lot of rubbing but don't get to hard with it or you will rub scale detail off of the blank. I hit the fins with the same mix and steelwool them but only once

    here is the photos so far
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    4. I angle spray the paired fins

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    5. I used superhide white thinned with retarder to lightly coat all lite areas of the fish. I also hit the fins as well.

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    6. I cleaned the eyes and sealed with spray gloss.. I mist it only when I say seal...

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    7. I used warm gold pearl on breast, gill cover and cheeks as reference showed...I went heavy with no ill effects..photos doesn't show it, but it looks good... I used the same on the back down to lateral line lightly.

    8. next is where the experiment(for me) came in. I used water crayons to get the greens, blues, yellows, and oranges., I wanted toned in.

    I started with these four.

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    I scribbled them on then wet my finger and rubbed them until I got what I wanted

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    9. I sealed them in.

    10. I used these three colors to take it a little futher.

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    11. yeah I sealed it again.

    12. back to the airbrush... I darkened the back , and sprayed the rays on all fins with Dark Brown as well as the spot on soft dorsal and ear spot.

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    13. started the barring with the same dark brown.


    14. very , very lightly steelwool barring.

    15. mist over barring, touching up spots and adding spots to scales as reference shows with dark brown(I will try chocolate brown next time. dark brown was darker then I wanted and caused extra steps.)

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    16. I used an Elmer's paint pen to paint in the spots above the lateral line. and used a dark brown pen to tone down those dark spots from step 15. Make sure gloss is dry from all the misting :)

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    17. again sealed with spray( as a mist)

    18. next experiment ( never tried to rub them into the pockets before)... using interference powders in blue, green, gold, and violet I rubbed in what i saw in my reference...They show well in person not so on the camera.. as well as shimmering pearl on the side of the fish from the lateral line down fading into the yellow

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    19. Then I used Scale detail green thinned with retarder, top of head and back, spotty around eyes, all fin rays. Then lightly spray all fins. except pectorals.

    20. sprayed pectoral fins with cadmium yellow

    21. Attached paired fins and blended union attachment with cadmium yellow, then yellow orche

    22. Supperhide white to touch up any areas.

    23. sienna to spray anal vent and teeth.

    24. sealed again( misted)
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    25. I used a brown paint pen to touch up yellow at fin junction.

    26. I glossed with wet look 240 using the same airbrush with a #3 tip I used painting this fish...I haven't used it since buying my iwatas but it was nice and simple for a change...this was a free (almost ) fish.

    the brush.
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    The finished fish in not as bright a light as where I paint.

    I hope you like and can use some of this if you made it this far.
    this was a 4 hour project (7.5 if you count the molding and casting and seam work and base) and the back is painted almost the same ...I skipped the fin rays and a lot of the steel wooling I did on the front.


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  2. Kevin Halle

    Kevin Halle Well-Known Member

    Thats pretty damn good Joey. What kind of repro blank is that that you used? Damn good tutorial ;)
     

  3. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    It is one I molded ... Thanks glad you like it
     
  4. Kevin Halle

    Kevin Halle Well-Known Member

    Then an excellent job on that also! Is that a customer piece?
     
  5. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    It is. a free one(kinda) to a cousin that helped my dad do some wind damage repair at no charge.. I would have done everything the same though, except the tail fin replacement..

    I got it ready to paint friday clamped it to my table, went into the shop saturday afternoon for a quick paint and the freakin thing was on the floor with a half busted tail. I wasn't happy but its probably why I decided to record everything I did...why I don't know..so I cast just the tail in fin magic using the mold from the fish. I cut the broke one off and replaced the new one and used fin magic to attach it... you can see how bad I did at that in some photos..in the end I put some magic smooth on it and touched up the paint...I should have used it to start with and let it set and fixed the junction right.
     
  6. redwolf

    redwolf Active Member

    Thanks for sharing Joey. Very nice.
     
  7. AUplantman

    AUplantman New Member

    That looks really good!
     
  8. james lin

    james lin Member

    53
    1
    Very nice.
     
  9. Looks GREAT!