Rattlesnake mounting - part IV of V

Once the hide is washed you can then proceed to use whatever tan/treatment you wish. Once tanned/treated you can then proceed to mount it. I like to drill out the eye sockets
and vents and lip line while the mannikin head is still attached. I use critter clay for the eye sockets. Once the eyes are set (can still be repositioned later) I then
cut off the mannikin head as it is too large to slide over the neck area. It is imperative that you use some sort of hide paste on reptile skin mounts. I like
Dynamite 111. Once I slide the skin over the head part I can then glue the head back on. I use 2-part epoxy with a wire. You can also use a little bit
of critter clay in this area to ensure a smooth joint. I get the head set first, but without gluing the lip line yet. I then start to staple the skin on
the belly after applying a little bit of hide paste. It is best to start at the head, then go to the tail and work towards the middle.
I would recommend test fitting so that you know it will fit before stapling. Once it is stapled on the belly I then go back and set the eyes and
glue the lip line and position the vents. I like to use 2 part epoxy on the lip line as it allows more time to position the skin than with
super glue or gorilla glue. As with any mount I will come back and check on it for scale alignment and air bubbles.

























Habitat in Part V



Kerby...

 

Thanks everyone, also

Thanks everyone, also if you have any questions just drop me an e-mail.

Kerby...

 

Still have pics.



Kerby...