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Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by Jim B, Sep 10, 2009.
But I'm better now,and maybe we can finish this thing up.After the last step,I looked it over again,sanded the tips and added a little epoxy where I thought it needed it.
I normally like my epoxy to match the lightest color in the rack and this stuff doesn't really.I ordered 4 quarts of All Game and discovered they changed the formulation.It does spread much better and sands easier than any epoxy I have used.
So today I mixed up an ivory color and airbrushed the epoxy,trying to approximate the light color in the rack.That is the way the rack is colored and you have to start with that base layer if you hope to match things up.This would be the only time I would use an airbrush in repairing racks.
Time off? You have us on the edge of our seats waiting to see the finish product and you go hunting? Sorry, couldn't resist LOL. Congrats on your new trophies, antelope with a recurve and a good looking bear, very nice. The repair you are doing on this antler, well looks like a real antler, nicely done!
Sorry Wayne,I tried to get them on the ground as quickly as I could.
Here are the tools of the trade.I have used a lot of different things to color antlers over the years but artist's acrylic paints in the tube work best for me.I use it for a multitude of things,including lichens.It is water clean up but after it dries thoroughly,it doesn't rehydrate with water.It dries to the touch in a few minutes.I mostly by the large,cheap tubes.
Raw umber is the most commonly used color.Great for sheep horns too.I also used some raw sienna as the rack has some reddish color to it.
I brushed a mixture of raw umber and raw sienna on with a 1 1/2" brush that I cut the bristles short on.I then just experimented around with wiping it off the high spots with a piece of Scotchbrite pad,rag,foam paint brush etc.Just use the rest of the rack as your guide and experiment around till you match it.
After the paint dried I rolled up a piece of 220 grit sandpaper,and holding the roll across the beam or tine and draw it down the beam to make highlights that run parallel with the tine or beam.I do this out on the whiter tips too.
I had to go back with a thin wash of raw sienna,over some of it.You can also experiment using any of the pads,rags etc.to apply the paint and get the affect you want.Sometimes thinning the paint slightly and dabbing it on with the Scotchbrite is the way to go.If you don't like your first attempt,wipe it off and try again.This stuff is easy to work with.
It's pretty close now but I will look it over with a fresh eye in the morning and see if it needs a little tweeking,especially in the transition area.
These methods will work equally well on any antler or horn repair.You can do this.It is just very important to do a step,let it cure,then assess how it looks.if something needs changed or tweeked,do it then before you move on.it takes very little time to Dremel off a spot and retexture,etc.evaluate after each step,all the way to the end.
I consider each of the early steps just as important as the last ones.
I am impressed.........Nice JOB!!!!
I have done this on a much smaller scale (deer), this is very impressive and probably stronger than the original antler.
WOW Jim looks great! A lot better than the last time I saw it.
Good job and thank you for sharing.
I see I taught you well, LOL
Great Job !
Outstanding as always Jim, you never cease to amaze me.
awesome job,do ypu use stain and paints for color?