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How long is long enough?

Discussion in 'Molding and Casting' started by Speckled Trout, Oct 26, 2009.

  1. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    How long do you guys, that mold fish in bondo, normally wait before de-molding your fish? On my first couple of casts, I did them late at night and didn't "get around" to taking them out until the next and everything turned out okay.

    Apparently, I'm getting into too big of a hurry, lately, and have screwed up a couple of my last attempts. Yesterday, I waited 4 hours before trying to "pull" a fish. It was still soft around the wooden block area and messed up the back side of the replica, in that area only. Since I intend on really only finishing one side of the partular fish, instead of pedestaL mounting it, it will still be usuable. BTW, the mold was completely cool, and I was under the incorrect assumption that it then okay to de-mold it. :-[

    Why would only one spot be still soft after all that time? And, I know I mixed it up real good. Nowhere else was there a problem, either. ???
     
  2. GBRUCH

    GBRUCH "I am nothing without christ".....John 15:5

    I have successfully pulled casts two hours after closing the mold but I generally wait till the next day.

    I have no idea why one area isn't set--that has never happened to me yet.
     

  3. Hell I usually demold in like 20 minutes. Don't know if its right or not but its worked so far.
     
  4. Manny

    Manny New Member

    I too will usually demold mine within an hour.

    You might have possibly been putting to much pressure on the mold in that particular spot. I rarly use wedges to open my mold. I use about 3 to 4 one inch wide chisles, in key points and work around the mold after running super hot water over it.
     
  5. A few things could have lead to this that I can think of.

    1. Temperature difference Was it sitting on a cold floor near that spot? (probably not likely given your location, I dont think they have cold anything by you guys ;D )
    2. In-proper mixing. Perhaps the hardener was not thoroughly mixed. (Sometimes tall narrow cups can promote this)
    3. Chemical reaction with the block. You said it was near the wood block? Was the block damp? or perhaps treated with a chemical that would compromise the resin?
    4. Chemical reaction with the mold surface. Sometimes on rare occasions you will get reactions with the wax in the mold. I never have with carnuba but I have with Johnsons paste wax.
    5. Contaminated brush. Is it possible that the brush you used when brushing on the resin was contaminated? (Water, oil, wax, paint)
    6. Act of God. Did you do the little dance around your mold before you poured it? ;D

    As for when I demold
    As soon as the oozed out resin is rubbery but not sticky. so normally 30-45 minutes.

    In the winter it takes much longer for my resin to set, so I have started adding black dye to my molds when I make them. Basically a black gelcoat.
    I will place these under a light before I start the casting process. The black absorbs the light and converts it to heat.
    During the process I will place the lamp over my molds to speed up the set time of my resins.
    I did a test last January.
    I turned off my heater in my shop and set out two 15" bass molds. One was bondo colored the other black, I then placed them both under a light.
    My gelcoat set in 35 minutes in my black mold and an hour and a half in my bondo mold.
    The temp of my studio was around 60 degrees.

    Its a neat trick for us in the northern climates.
     
  6. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    I was going to say 1,3, and 6 or not quite enough hardner and maybe thin under the block, but It hasnt happened here yet so I would be guessing ;D My biggest issue is when I dont mix it well enough...even when I think I have.
     
  7. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    Well, it's happened to me twice on the same mold. :-[ I've yet to get a good cast from this particular rainbow mold... I'm pretty sure that I didn't get the catalyst stirred well in one of the 4 cups that I used the last attempt. On this attempt, I mixed the heck out of the resin. And, why would that occur only in one spot when the resin was distributed throughout the mold? ??? And, both times, it happened in the same spot, on the mold. I just can't make sense of it.

    You know what, I set it outside on the ground in the sun to cure. A cold front had come through the day before and it was sitting on the cement. I guess the cement could've been too cold. The air temp was probably 70, but I figured the sun was warming it up. I tested it to see when it heated up and then cooled. I let it set for a couple hours after this occcured, too.

    I'm about 99% sure that it was an untreated piece of pine from a 2x4, but with all the duck hunting I do, i guess I could have grabbed a piece of treated stuff, by accident, but I doubt it. In fact, I remember purposely not grabbing the treated stuff because I was worried that it would be too hard. While using some of my treated stuff, I couldn't even get a nail to start without bending it, the other day while working on one of my pit blinds.

    This is driving me crazy. I've done tons of work on boats using fiberglass/bondo/gel-coat and never had a problem with the stuff setting up, either. Then, I mix it up as usual, spread it into a closed mold and bamm, things start going hay-wire...

    For now, I'm leaning toward the temp difference between the air and the cement as being the cause, but I definitely ain't certain, at this point. And, the uncertainty sucks.
     
  8. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    Let me add, it happened on the same side, in the same spot of the mold, twice. Both times the cast was perfect on the "show-side", too. This is really weird. Maybe it is the wood. I wish I could remember which side I bonded the wood to before I closed it up.
     
  9. Is the wood cold?
    and where are you storing your resin?

    If you are able to take a picture, we may be able to diagnose it better.

    sure is odd
     
  10. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    The resin is stored in my shop. I haven't had any issues when I've used it for other stuff, just when it's in the mold. In fact, I made some rocks and other stuff with the same resin and it performed normally. I'm really confused here.

    But, one thing I'd like to add is that whatever is happening is affecting the already cured gelcoat, as well. It's becoming soft and is actually tearing open when i try to remove the fish.

    I'll definitely take a pic, later.
     
  11. Now THAT is odd.
    Ill have to think on that one.
     
  12. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    Here's some pics of the first one.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And both sides of the second.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I used the same resin on the fin sections of the mold with no problems.

    The fish had some seriously funky fins and I tried to extended with fiberglass to make them look less worn. I'm not done shaping them, yet. The dorsal wasn't great and the tail was really bad on the actual fish.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    So, no one has a clue what could be the culprit, here? :-[

    It really is confusing to me. Like I said earlier, I've dealt with fiberglass for many years while working on boats. I've never seen it do anything like this, and now, it's happened twice..... The gelcoat getting soft is really baffling, to me.
     
  14. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    Here's another question.

    If this had happened to you, what would you do to eliminate all possibilities that it could happen again on your next attempt?
     
  15. Mike B.

    Mike B. New Member

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    How thick is the mass in the section that is bad? If it is to thin the resin may not be able to generate the heat needed to cure it in a short amount of time. You may try warming your mold before putting your resin in. The gel coat may just be pulling apart because the resin behind it has not fully cured and that would leave that area very thin.
    Just some things to consider.
     
  16. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    I "think" it's probably the thickest, since it's where I'm attaching the block of wood. I even applied more fiberglass, to that area, when I attached it.

    Also, the gelcoat isn't just cracking, it's getting soft, as well. What could do this? You'd think that it'd have to have gotten very hot to "melt" the already hardened gelcoat, wouldn't you? uggggh! I'm about ready to give........:-[
     
  17. You can't use the good side as your show side?
     
  18. Huh...........

    ok well here is what I would try.
    wax the mold and try again, only this time set that part of the mold UP when putting it together.

    or try a test batch there and see if it will set in that spot.
    You may have a flaw in the mold.

    Oh perhaps you could take a picture of the mold as well, that my give us clues.

    Here is a question.
    Are you setting the block in at the same point as closing the mold?
    If so try setting the block first with the mold open, then set the two halves together after it sets.

    I have a hunch you are getting a small void under the block and this is insulating the resin, protecting it from heating up.
    the solvents in the resin will then soften your Gel coat.

    Resin is odd. It has a heat cycle and if for some reason it doesnt set during this cycle you will have a patch that wont set.
     
  19. Speckled Trout

    Speckled Trout Member

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    Should I put down a thin layer of (resin/fiberglass chop) throughout the mold halves and let it completely set, before adding the block? This would give it time to cure, before adding the block and then fiberglassing the two halves together... do I have this right?

    Thanks for help, Again-Mike
     
  20. newbirdman

    newbirdman Active Member

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    I've been making molds for 40+ years. I always leave my fish in over night with no problems . Resin takes 24 hours to cure properly . If you do remove the fish early , make sure you clamp the two sides together for a day so they dont warp .

    As for your fish having those problems , are you using fiberglass mat inside ? It looks like just gel coat on the first pictures . It also looks like you might have an air bubble in the blank . An air bubble will cause this as it doesn't adhere to the mat so the gel coat separates . Rick