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Shaving tips

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by Rhino, Nov 11, 2009.

  1. jigginjim

    jigginjim Active Member

    sarge, yes do guys use they mchines for raw fleshing before tanning? I was taught to use a knife. the machine would sure seem alot faster for fleshing theskin after skinning. I could really use it for fleshing the beaver I trapped.
  2. Sarge

    Sarge A little too much Lord *hic*

    Small Mammal fleshing can be done on a Dakota 4 with no problems and you can get one cheap if you have an old electric motor setting around. That is what I did, just call Van Dykes and tell them you what the model for overseas it comes without the motor. They do that with all the models including the Pro so you can save at least a $100 if you have a motor on hand already.

    Hope that helps


  3. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Sarge, your Dakota 4 will do just as good of fleshing and shaving, as anything else will, as long as their are no BAD vibrations in the machine. For average Taxidermy purposes, if a round knife is running true and smooth, the end result will be the same no matter who makes it, and providing you know how to steel and set the guards.

    Steeling is the most elusive part of shaving!

    First off, I never put the left steel on a grinder. The tip of the left steel SHOULDNT be shaped like a cone. It should be shaped like a rifle bullet. Not a 30-30 with a flat tip, but something like a .270, or a 7mag bullet. From the casing up, a bullet GENTLY slopes into a fine tip. The transition from the main part of the steel, to the tip, NEEDS to be very gradual. I always use a wet rock, and alot of elbow grease, to achieve this. Sometimes it may take me 20 minutes to get that bullet shape. The steels I use are VERY hard, but also are brittle. The SMALLEST of cracks, in a tungsten steel, can chew up a edge real fast! Just dropping one of these steels on the concrete, can cause a crack, that you can barely see with the naked eye!

    Using the hour hand on a clock, the handle of your left steel, should be pointed between 7:00 and 7:30, when steeling. Hold it just below level, at the point of blade contact. Ever so gently, lift up on the left steel slightly, until you feel the edge. Now, gently place the right steel on the blade, with the handle pointed at 4:00, and slowly raise the right steel, until the handle is pointed at 3:00. Gently strap the knife, until smooth. DONT keep the steels in contact with the knife, for more than 15 or 20 seconds. This builds up too much heat, and will weaken the edge.

    As time goes by, and with alot of practice, you will learn how to raise the lip with the left steel, for thicker skins, and turn down the lip, for thinner skins.

    This is my first attempt at trying to explain steeling. I hope at least one person understands this?LOL

    TRAPPERGIRL Proud Member-Taxidermy M.A.F.I.A. & Taxinet Clique

    i'm marking this too !!

    thanks for the tips ;D
  5. Sounded good to me OS! I had a steel shatter on me the other day... Luckily the blade was already toast.. But now I have to go bum another piece of tunsten off the welding shop and make another...
  6. Becky P

    Becky P One must believe the glass is half full.

    Thanks OS for the steeling explanation, I think I understood it now if I can just do it - me and my flesher fight and it usually wins.
  7. Sarge

    Sarge A little too much Lord *hic*

    OS if I am getting this correctly I want a tip on the Left Steel that will basically cause a hollow ground effect on the underside of the blade edge so that there is actually minimal drag on the under side of the blade as it cuts. Ballistic tipped left steel and round smooth steel right. If I am doing this correctly I am actually adjusting the angle of the cutting burr in the edge of the blade just as in straight knife sharpening only instead of a centered cutting edge I am going to gently work it up or down to get the bite I want.

    Just making sure I understood you correctly.


  8. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Sounds like you got it good Sarge!
  9. lookn4awhitetail

    lookn4awhitetail "I shoot a Mathews, cause I dont wanna Hoyt them"

    Old shaver,
    So when do we know when a Wild Boar is false cut. I have one and some hair pulls out, but all and all the majority is in there tight. Along the dorsal seems to be where I really fleshed thin. I figure I could get some more needed stretch from the shield but am scared to keep shaving. Any "shaving bits" for these critters.
  10. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    I could try to explain boar shaving, but it wouldnt do much good. :-\

    Boar capes, are one of the few skins, that have to be shaved on an individual basis. There is not ONE WAY to shave a boar.

    A traditional false cut, leaves an area the thickness of a balloon, that has been blown up. Light will easily pass through that spot. Some boar capes have hair roots so deep, that the hair will still fall out, when the skin is shaved to just 1/8 inch thick! Alot of shaving experience is the only answer to this question.

    Have a good one! Sorry I couldnt help more.
  11. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Tip of the day.

    Fleshing raw skins for salting: DONT GET GREEDY! Using your fleshing machine, you are MUCH better off, taking multiple thin cuts, in the same area, than trying to remove TOO much with one cut. Getting greedy, and rushing your fleshing, will only cause unneeded sewing time.

    You cant put it back on, once you take it off! You want to remove thick meat and fat during fleshing, but don't get paranoid about slippage, and attempt to take off too much, while a skin is still raw. Again, unnecessary sewing. Your just FLESHING, NOT shaving! You dont want to rush your fleshing, but dont be anal about it either. A good salting, will do more than you think!
  12. bill@hogheaven

    [email protected] New Member

    Gotta mark this post, Thanks Old Shaver.
  13. Bobbi Meyer

    Bobbi Meyer I luv to ride my tricycle, I luv to ride my trike

    marking too!
    more tips Aubrey....keep em coming..we all appreciate the help!
  14. Tricia

    Tricia New Member

    I think we need another "Tip Of the...day, week or whatever" thread for Aubrey, Bobbi. Kinda like you're doing for RDA. You volunteering? LMAO A nice tidy place we can go and read the posts as we need them.

    Keep them coming, this is good stuff! I'm sure we all appreciate the tips, I know I do.
  15. Bobbi Meyer

    Bobbi Meyer I luv to ride my tricycle, I luv to ride my trike

    done tricia!
  16. buckturk

    buckturk New Member

    Wow! This has been some good readaing. i might learn something today ;D
  17. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    When having your blades re-ground, STAY AWAY from those hogger lips.(the hook, or edge) they are a waste of a good blade, and serve no purpose, other than making you use blades faster, so you will buy another! :-* Who ever started that mess, obdviously didnt shave for a living, and was not very concerned about the cost of a round knife. ???

    They are hard to control, and ARE VERY DANGEROUS for a beginner. You have not been cut by a shaving machine, until one of those boggers gets ya! :eek: Not only are they more dangerous to YOU, but they are more dangerous to the skin!

    Last, but not least, when learning to steel, EVERY TIME you steel the blade, take a quick tester cut, in a thick area of the skin. NEVER the brisket! Preferablly at the bottom of a cape, low on the shoulder. This will save you some sewing.

    Head Quarters Taxidermy Supply, will be offering new blades, and blade grinding, VERY SOON, I think? Blades will be ground by pro shavers, that know how to correctly grind a blade. NO STAINLESS blades will be ground!(another waste of money)
  18. old shaver you ever consider doing a dvd on fleshing with your knowledge im sure it would sell
  19. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    If I were shaving at home, like yall, and needed to get the most life our of my edge, take a minute and do this.

    Check bullet entrance, and exit wounds, for copper fragments. Lead wont hurt your edge, BUT COPPER WILL! An ounce of prevention is better than paying for a new grind!
  20. Uncle Harley

    Uncle Harley New Member

    how often does a blade need re-ground.....I have had my flesher for 2 yrs running 30-40 capes a yr and I bought it very used.........I has gotten very dull at times but nothing that a little steeling won't cure