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Removing blood from Antelope cape

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by R.J. Meyer II, Dec 4, 2009.

  1. R.J. Meyer II

    R.J. Meyer II Member

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    I have a cape which came in with a bunch of dried blood in the hair. Apparently shooting it wasn't enough so they blungened it too. It is in the pickle and I bought some "blood eater" but it says to use before pickle or it won't work. Any suggestions. I can do the dawn wash and repickle or I have thought of using peroxide or hydrafloric acid. Any suggestions ????
     
  2. You can use peroxide on the white hairs. I tried one of the bloodeater products - that didn't work. I also tried some heavy duty soap. I ended up with the bloody area turning a lime green color. That was scary. I had to peroxide it back to white.
     

  3. R.J. Meyer II

    R.J. Meyer II Member

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    This is mostly in the brown hair (shoulder) I am not sure what to do. GEORGE WHERE ARE YOU????? lol
     
  4. jasonb

    jasonb I think I'll keep her

    Mount it up as you normaly would, then use fine sand paper on the affected areas when doing your finishing work.
     
  5. use a low power presser washer...
     
  6. Pressure washer can get a lot out, then do what JasonB said.
     
  7. jasonb

    jasonb I think I'll keep her

    Pressure washer will also take a lot of hair out, I would not recommend anything over a garden hose.
     
  8. cyclone

    cyclone Posts: 400001


    Stop right there!

    If you truly mean hydrofluoric acid then stop! Hydrofluoric acid has no use in the taxidermy industry! It is dangerous and can be deadly. It can easily be absorbed through YOUR skin and will dissolve calcium from YOUR bones!


    Normally I'd post the MSDS but this Wikipedia article says it all. READ IT!

    Scroll down to the "SAFETY" section and READ IT!
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid

    Dish detergent and water would have been an obvious first choice before the pickle.
     
  9. R.J. Meyer II

    R.J. Meyer II Member

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    Actually it has a use if used with the proper protection and caution. As with all chemicals, used properly it is quite useful.
     
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    R.J., you won't like my answer. YOU CAN'T. I've said this a dozen times or more, antelope hair is hollow with open ends. Blood is pulled INSIDE the hair shaft by osmosis and NOTHING you can do is going to get it out short of destroying that hair (Maybe that's how TMalone gets his out). Once blood in that hair shaft coagulates, it hardens against the hair inner wall and nothing short of dynamite is going to move it.

    Remember how I say "Stupid should hurt"? Tell your customer "Here's your sign."
     
    Matt J Reed likes this.
  11. Pescado

    Pescado Biggest in 2011

    I have only done a couple antelope, one of which was a bloody mess. I soaked it for a few hours in "Westley's Clear Magic", which has a low ph and was designed to work with cold water. It did clean the hair up real nicely. Blue Coral discontinued the clear magic several years ago, but reintroduced the same formula, except with a bit of citrus scent added. The new product sells under the name "Blue Coral Cleaner and Degreaser". I buy it at Menards for less than $3 for a 32oz spray bottle. I usually add about 8oz per gallon, sometimes more, but that is on fish. I do not remember the ratio on the antelope. I know I can soak what appears to be a very clean bass skin for 24 hours and it pulls a lot of something out of it. Judging by the color I think it is blood.

    Paul B
     
  12. R.J. Meyer II

    R.J. Meyer II Member

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    Thanks to all. George, I actually did like your answer because it was the same as mine. I have never had any luck removing this much blood and thought I was just missing something. I will hit menards tommarrow as a last try.
     
  13. cyclone

    cyclone Posts: 400001

    Sure as hell can't be cheaper than other acids...pilfered?

    Nice knowing you... :-\
     
  14. jasonb

    jasonb I think I'll keep her

    Well the people that I know in the westren part of the U.S. that mount up a lot of speed goats every year, most use the sand paper technique. BUT what do we know.
     
  15. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Jason, not to get snippy about it, but if you Western guys have to resort to hair destruction in order to mount antelope, did it ever occur to anyone out there to drop the hammer on the outfitters who are allowing the hides to lay in puddles of blood. An Easterner simply cannot easily just walk out there and hunt. Many of the Western states extort us in non-resident fees and then REQUIRE us to have an outfitter. It would seem prudent that you guys educated them a bit more.
     
  16. speedgoattaxidermy

    speedgoattaxidermy New Member

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    i get 15-20 goats every year to mount, never had 1 brought to me from an outfitter, as far as blood in the hair, i use a "purple shampoo" then put a 40% paste on. after that its as cleen as it will be.
    First thing i get the goat caped i rough flesh the cape then into a oxiclean bath for a caouple mins. then wash in clean water, spin and freeze till later.
     
  17. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Speedgoat, neither have I. What I'm saying, however, is that when they get back here, MOST of them are wadded up in plastic bags after they'd been caped fresh. No one took any time or effort to wash off the residual blood nor stop it from oozing blood inside the bag before it left. When I KNOW one of my clients is heading that way, we have a heart to heart on what should be done if he doesn't want a few brown spots on his golden haired hide when it's done.
     
  18. I use a power washer on just about everything, deer, elk, predators, and yes antelope. did 6 antelope last week, 4 of them were extremely bloody and after customers drove from out west it was dried mostly. I guess using the power washer takes a little common sense. You don't put it close enough to blow the hair off!!! Jeeesh! It won't get all the blood out but it sure gets a lot of it. Works for me!
     
  19. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    RJ, where did you get hold of hydrofluoric acid? You sure you don't mean hydrochloric? Cyclone, was not over reacting! HF is some serious stuff! The only acids I can think of, that wont burn up the hair, in their concentrated form, MIGHT BE, acidic, and citric, but most likely, neither will do any good.

    Knobloch's sells something, that should take care of your problem. Go to their site, and look under the section titled "new chemicals". What you need, is called a bate. NOT the acid bate(good for bears), just a plain bate.

    Consider the word bate, synonymous with enzymes. Add this product, as directed(max amount) to your re-hydration bath, four hours before you are ready to put you skins in pickle. Best results will probably be achieved, if the water is between 70-80 degrees. The pickle, will STOP the enzyme activity. TOO LONG of a time in a bate, WILL weaken the skin structure, so DONT leave in longer than four hours!

    The Knoblochs BATE is kinda like Shout, or Spray-n-Wash. Both of these products contain enzymes, that will attack and dissolve blood proteins, among others. Have a good one!
     
  20. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I just don't think there's any cure out there. Not even the bates from a chemical standpoint. Anything that dissolves blood is going to dissolve protein and anything that dissolve protein is going to dissolve hair. Prevention is the smartest tool.

    TMALONE, you can tell us all you want what you do, but those of us who've worked on speedgoats are NOT GOING TO BELIEVE YOU. Antelope hair, especially around entrance and exit holes seems to fall out spontaneously just by looking at it. When I'm mounting one, I turn the skin over the backboard and then gently tug handfuls of hair out to give me a good flat backing leather to staple. I wash my hides with a hose and I make damned sure there's no nozzle on it just for that reason. IN MY OPINION, you're just on borrowed time.