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Forms without cape pics!!!

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Todd Adams, Jan 20, 2010.

  1. TheBigGuy1976

    TheBigGuy1976 New Member

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    Marking
     
  2. Museum Man

    Museum Man Well-Known Member

    nice job leopold
     

  3. Ok- I'll make a run at this and keep it going. I have taken a different approach and tend to prep my form to make it look like I want versus adding clay. It takes about 20 min for me to prep the form my way. I am a firm believer that the foundation must be right before building a house. I also spend quite a bit of time addressing the underside of my jaw area. Another taxi asked once asked me why and I explained that on most mounts and placement that most customers used (higher on wall) that the area that you saw first was the bottom of the face. I see lots of mounts with no attention to this area. I carve jawbones (some people build in clay but I always smash them when mounting), I make the 2 rumant swells (sp?) and add the gland (can usually see the 2-3 hairs) in with a pea size ball of clay. I really think this is what separates my stuff from others in my area. Notice a real jawbone next to my prep. I high lighted the rumant swells with a pencil to show up in photo.
    I'm always trying to create a soft look versus hard muscled up look so I try to undo some if the extreme sculpting in some forms. I have a perfect file for just this task. I turn it on edge and make all my creases so my finger can get to the bottom on the crease. Remember the hide has to fit in here and it's a place where lots of drumming happens. Speaking of which, I live in a very hot and humid area and drumming is a big issue for me. As you can see, I try to rough up or sand at least 80% of the form. I use high dollar glue and want it to stick.
    I saw a few on this thread that didn't appear to have a slot to tuck the tear duct. I use a tool, make a narrow opening to help reduce shrinkage and also cut a slot where I can tuck some of the bare eye skin. This helps with mature relaxed eye look and also reduces surface that will later need paint (people say that have trouble painting, why paint MORE).
    I also create a small pocket at the back of the lip to help accept the double lip skin here and also accent the back lip bulge created by the extra thick inter lip skin of a live deer. Same concept for the nostril flare. I use my same file and create nostril depth. I noticed some using the replacement nose but on those I want something special, I cut of the top of the nose, carve it out and use sculpt all mixed with red flock to get the extra detail (also less money).
    Lastly, I get lots of very short hair deer based on the heat down here in S TX. Therefore, EVERYTHING on the form is going to show whether you want it of not. I go over the certain areas with 200 grit sandpaper, again to softer it up.
    There you go :)
     

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  4. one with final results
     

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  5. sorry didnt get right pic :(
     

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  6. whitetail62

    whitetail62 New Member

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    This is a good way to help use NEW people see a lot of good pictures for time to come god please you all !!!!!!
    Jeff
     
  7. whitetail62

    whitetail62 New Member

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    :) I like that look :-* jeff
     
  8. RTF

    RTF Active Member

    Took a Rinehart Semi Sneak CAD wall mount and turned it into a CJ wall pedestal wall mount.
     

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  9. Rick Carter

    Rick Carter Administrator

    Mountain lion resculpted using the real skull as reference.



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    URL=http://s35.photobucket.com/user/inkyspal/media/MTL%20Face_zpsaplb4hiy.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]

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  10. steamvalley

    steamvalley some cleaned and dipped skulls

    I like that jaw work.
     
  11. Texan7174

    Texan7174 New Member

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  13. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    Love it Rick! I hate mounting cats without the skull anymore. They go together soooo much smoother.


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