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need advice on how to handle customer

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Ross, Jan 22, 2010.

  1. Ross

    Ross New Member

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    Here is my situation, i have mounted approximately 50 deerheads in the last 5 yrs I have had 3 customers email or called
    to complain that the sawing line on the deer has split and wants me to repair it... and this is just after a year of doing the deerhead
    for them... the first question i ask is where do you hang the deerhead. all 3 have said in the garage so there is no temperture controled
    in garage..... So i tell them if you hang the deer in a living room or a temperture controled area it will not do that.. I'm i right telling customers that? The reason i ask that is my last customer was lastnite he called saying the line is splitting wanted to know if i would
    fix it. i said i would i ask him where he hangs it. He said living room, He's lying to me, the reason i say that is his boy dropped off
    deerhead to me acouple of weeks ago and told me that his fathers deerhead is hanging in the garage.
    Any suggestions on how i go about this.. And is this deerhead repairable? can i resaturate it and resow it?
     
  2. Any deer hanging in a garage will show stress with time.
     

  3. Old Fart

    Old Fart Active Member

    There are lots of things that can cause that sort of thing. How was the cape preserved? Did you put the proper size form into the mount or did you try to give it a little "extra"? Hide paste?
     
  4. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    x2
     
  5. dwl

    dwl New Member

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    I have had a lot of different heads out in my garage and in a non climate controlled storage unit for a couple years, other than being dusty that is all that is wrong with them, maybe how the hide is preserved or something else?
     
  6. LordRusty

    LordRusty If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong.

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    And ... are you using COMMERCIALLY TANNED capes? Or are they craptan?

    If you guys are not using a properly leathered cape, then you have decision to make ... do the work the proper way, or do something else. This home tanning is out of control, and yields skins with just this kind of trouble. You guys are not Tanners. Some of you are barely Taxidermists ... practice and perfect your Taxidermy and leave tanning to the Tanners.

    And I'm not talking about a cape that's pickled and oiled ... that IS NOT tanning. That's pickling alone, and no amount of oil will prevent excessive shrinkage in the long run. The step of tanning - leatherizing the skin - delivers needed tannins to the fibers of the skin. The pickle lowers the pH, tightens up and plumps the skin making it easy to shave - VERY important for proper stretch and fit; neutralizing opens up the fibers and raises the pH making the skin ready to accept the tannins ... mineral, vegetable or synthetic ... bonding them to the skin. The oil then imparts a flexibility to the tanned hide, whether wet or dry tanned.

    It is a complete process, that unless done correctly, produces a skin that is incomplete in its final product, setting it up to fail.

    In short, I have never had a fully tanned skin burst open. I'm telling you ... this is a big part of the problem!

    None of us has any control over how a piece is displayed or where ... but it is our PARAMOUNT RESPONSIBILITY to do our best to insure that wherever the hell the thing is hung or displayed, that it remains intact and holds up over the years.

    So much shyt these days seems to be being done with a short-sighted mindset. Do it as fast as we can for as cheap as we can ... then watch it end up in a can ... a trash can. Fast and cheap don't cut it. And this, among other problems are the result.

    Remember, no matter where it is hung, that mount is representing YOU! How do you want to be represented? How do you want to be remembered? Think about it. ;)

    John.
     
  7. Daffin

    Daffin New Member

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    when you measure a deer with the hide on, always subtract 1" from the measurment. Then after you sew it up use some galvenized finish nails on each side of the seam. Also let your customers know it will last a lot longer if they hang it in a room with climate control.
     
  8. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Active Member

    A properly tanned cape applied to a properly sized form with a qaulity adhesive is extreemly durable and risiistant to problems. I've had some of mine in my cabin for a long time where the temperatures will range from below zero to 90 degrees and they are not showing any problems. I've also got a couple out in my garage and they are looking good too. My guess is that your tanning/mounting process needs some improvments.
     
  9. what are you using to sew it? is it the hide thats splitting or is it the thread your using?
     
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    x3 and NO NAILS. Galvanized nails WILL rust and if you do what's been stated, they're totally unnecessary to begin with.
     
  11. Measuring over hair can add a lot more than 1 inch to you measurements, always measure the carcass.

    Finish Nails? Its a deer head not wood trim. A good quality hide paste solves that problem.
     
  12. B Jones

    B Jones Memeber of - NTA,UTA,AIT.Proud Member of NZTA.

    X4 I guess if your nailing crown mold to your deer, nails would help.
     
  13. #1 headhunter

    #1 headhunter New Member

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    Sounds like it wasn't on the right size form to begin with. Those big thick Canadian capes will add more than 1".. You need to measure carcass or fleshside of cape.
     
  14. mdupertuis

    mdupertuis Active Member

    I have come to agree 100% with John on this one. I have used Krowtann on a couple dozen Whitetail mounts, a couple I had to stretch. Well I got one back the other day from a guy who was very good about it. The front looked fine, except for a very small crack on the lower lip. When he took it down to bring it to me, he noticed a 1/2" to 1" gap about 8" on the back of it's neck. I was ashamed to call this my work. Yes the form was prepped hide was sewn, and I used hide paste, you could see it all right there. The anatomy was good, face looked great, just had the big gap and was a short hair deer. I am replacing the cape at no charge for the customer even though he told me not to worry because it can't be see when it is hanging up. I don't want my name on it. I'm sure this doesn't happen with all home tans every time, but this and a few other examples have opened my eyes to the difference a quality professional tan can produce. I am committed to not letting another mount like that ever come out of my shop again. Sure I have to wait longer to get the cape, but I plan on doing this business another 40 years, can't have that kind of crap coming out of my shop and expect to command a higher price.
     
  15. I am also 100% agreeing with John. I have never tanned my own hides and have always send them out. A few customer mounts who had not been picked up ended up in my antlershed which is not insulated, bug proof or temperature controlled. Those heads have been in there for over five years for two and 2 years for another and besides being dirty they are holding up as if they had been mounted yesterday. No seam splitting anywhere, no hide cracking around nose or eyes. It is all in the tan and then also on using the proper size form, good glue, and a good thread with your sewing skills. JMO
     
  16. Trophy Specialist

    Trophy Specialist Active Member

    I would not go so far as to say that home tanning is a shortcut or is somehow inferior to the results achieved by a tannery tanned cape. I certainly had my share of problems with capes that I sent out to two different tanneries, both of which have been raved about on this forum too. If you take the time to learn a proven tanning method, and don't' cut any corners, then top quality, long lasting results are attainable. The right person can certainly increase quality control by doing all the work themself.
     
  17. RoyalOaksRanch

    RoyalOaksRanch Royal Oaks Taxidermy- When Quality Counts...

    I have my own deer in the worst place ever... IN a metal shop, the heat and dust, cold and humidity get to this thing.. The seam has never pulled and yes did tan it in house..
    Ive seen deer that were hanging in the living room with the seam gapping open.. I think alot has to do with the stitches.. Put alot of sticthes close together on a properly sized form It shouldnt move.. People who put their stitches far aprt are asking for trouble far as IM concerned...

    I use around 6 stitches per inch.. Mine do not pull open..
     
  18. verne

    verne Well-Known Member

    Thinning the cape,and the sew line help`s,along with being able to move hide past under the seam.
     
  19. D.W.M.

    D.W.M. New Member

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    Curiosity question Ross what did you use for cape thread?
     
  20. Mr.T

    Mr.T New Member

    No glue causes that, wide stitches cause that, DP hides do that, 3 out of 50 is not good. Hanging in a garage is a cop out to poor craftsmanship.