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Would there be a market for a PROFESSIONAL shaving instructional video?

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by Rhino, Mar 21, 2010.

  1. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Does anyone have the Keith Daniels one? I definitely want a DVD on shaving. The one that came with my Dakota wasn't very good. It looks like the Keith Daniels one is more about tanning. How indepth does it get into the shaving/setting up/adjustment, etc.? I want a DVD that helps people get better by going over all of it, not one that just makes it look easy. I would buy either Keith's or Oldshaver's if it did that.
  2. It actually covers shaving more than tanning. Pickiling and swabbing on Liqua Tan isn't real complicated. I give you tips on what to look for when shaving different areas and edges on W. T., elk and pronghorn, such as glands on prong horn, thicker and thinner areas on W. T., how to NOT cut the long hairs loose, where to watch on elk briskets for hair changes, how to deal with the gland on an elk eye etc. I don't know what Clip Randy and Rosanna have on the website.

  3. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Keith. I'll pick it up. I do okay with deer hides and such, but have a real hard time with pig, bison, and elk. They almost seem too thick to shave it that's possible. LOL.
  4. Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions on a particular skin.
  5. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I wonder if it would help to rinse the elk skins off before fleshing. My pickle is a bit salt heavy and I wonder if that is toughening up the hides a bit.
  6. Too much salt will make a stiffer hide, no reason for any more than 1 lb per gallon in a pickle.
  7. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I put a stone to my blade and then used the steel to lift the lip a little and it worked much better for an hour. After that it quit. I freaked out thinking the motor burned out. I tried resetting it and so forth...nothing. The thing is only 14 months old and I haven't used it too too much. Finally after a couple of hours of cooling down it started working again. I did order Keith's DVD so hopefully it will tell me how to keep it from heating up like that as well as other things I'm doing wrong.
  8. I got your message from last night, we are 3 hours different on time zone. Yes, your motor apparently has an overload switch, even if it has a manual one, if it's too hot when you push the button it won't reset, sounds like you found that out already!

    If you have a motor kick out on an elk you could have a few problems. One, I think you already are going to remedy, that's a dull blade and you're just working it way to hard, another is just plain a cheap motor that isn't made to work hard or long, another is a physical problem with the motor and another is low voltage, a long extension cord, bad connection somewhere or even just a line with low voltage could cause this.

    I would work with a sharp blade first and see if that remedies the problem, if not it's time to start checking the other issues.
  9. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Thanks. The blade was a lot sharper last night, but I'm planning on sending it out for professional sharpening. I have a Dakota Pro so I'm not sure about the motor. I thought they were supposed to be good. I'll also look for a better and shorter extension cord. Thanks again.
  10. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Okay so I watched the Keith Daniels DVD and one online from landlaketaxidermy on youtube. Both helped a lot. With my new blade the elk was a lot easier to shave, but I still have a couple of issues. First I have the guards all the way out and pieces of hide still are stopping up the blade. They are getting stuck both against the guard and at the bottom rear of the blade. I've tried the guards in close and out nearly all the way. Second, the elk hide was so stiff out of the pickle it was like a boar shield. I neutralized it for 30 minutes with baking soda and a relaxer and that helped a little, but it was still very stiff and in some places nearly an inch thick. This made it almost impossible to handle since it almost wouldn't flaten out or bend to grab. I think know Keith in the video said he neutralized it for a few hours, but since I was just putting it back in the pickle and not tanning it, I didn't want to neutralize it too much. I was taught no more than 30-40 minutes for thicker hides so I was surprised you could do if for as long as Keith does, but he obviously knows what he's doing. I am taking off 4-5" pieces now with each swipe so that's good. Two elk filled up a 30 gallon trash can with the shavings. Any suggestions on how to stop the pieces from jamming up my Dakota Pro and why my elk would be so stiff?
  11. How much salt do you have in the pickle? Unfortunately the construction of the shaver you have doesn't lend itself to clearing out very well, moving the guards away from the blade is about all you can do. A big bull elk is going to be pretty stiff until you thin it down, especially if it wasn't re-hydrated well, what was your process for that?
  12. What sort of rpm is your blade doing ? I only have about 3/32" gap between the leading guard and the blade and have never had a choke up however my blade is doing about 3900 rpm so it throws any scraps out pretty well !
  13. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I probably have much more salt than I need. I put 50 pounds in a 40 gallon barrel thinking that was pretty close, but then I didn't figure that I don't fill it up all the way because the hide takes up room. When you say rehydrate do you mean after salting or after pickling. It was rehydrated pretty well before the pickle. I didn't do a heavy salt on these hides, so I just rinsed them out and soaked them until they felt like a raw hide. I'm not sure what the rpm's are on a Dakota Pro, but it seems pretty fast. I've never had trouble before, but now I'm taking out larger pieces (4" widths) it seems to have more problems and I end up taking the cover off every few minutes to clean it out.
    So Keith, can I safely let it soak for longer until it softens up after pickling, shave it, and then put it back into the pickle? I'm thinking as thick as the elk was it would take a couple of hours to soften it back up and I'm just not sure that's safe.
  14. My prefered rehydration involves the use of a bacteriacide at the manufacturers recommended rate in a brine of 2kg salt ~100 litres water,I dont over soak just long enough that the skin is quite flexible then into the pickle.When shaving I only take slices about 30 ~40 thou thick maybe thats why I dont choke my machine. cheers Peter
  15. The bigger shaving's you're getting now with a sharp blade are going to tend to load up, you've already got that figured out, with the machine you have there's not much you can do about it short of cutting another 1.5 to 2" out of the bottom of the hood so shavings can drop out. When you get back on deer that problem won't be near as significant.

    I'm talking about re-hydrating before pickling. If you re-hydrate in a salt solution all you do is hinder the process. Unless you slip a little acid into your re-hydration there's no reason to add salt to it, the idea is to let the skin wet back up, all the salt does is slow the process down. You want to get the skin back to a soft limp state as quick as possible. The better your skin has been re-hydrated the quicker and better it will pickle, meaning less slippage and easier shaving.

    For your elk you're working on now, if it's still stiff try running it through a de-greaser for a couple hours, then put it back in the pickle, it should make a big difference.
  16. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Thanks. I'll do that.
  17. Justin P.

    Justin P. Active Member

    I'd buy a copy.