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I need some primer help please. I am going crazy here.

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by Joey Arender, Mar 24, 2010.

  1. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    I have been using rustolem painters touch primer and rustolem lacquer gloss. It worked great on about 4 fish. I havent changed anything I do. I prime, then seal with gloss (a few flash coats). On a recent striper blank, I got to the final gloss and, my paint curdled(?? wrinkled). I thought maybe I didn't get all the mold release off. Then the samething on a smbass. On Both I forgot to seal the primer. But I seal a lot during the painting process. I would think that it probably shouldnt matter. Next I was working on a crappie, the primer had a reaction when I sealed it , again just flash coats. Next two crappie no problems until final gloss. On them is was more like spider webs under the paint.

    Well I thought I had the problem solved until this morning. I prepped two large bluecat blanks yesterday, primed both. I sealed one last night and the other this morning. The one last night looked great and ready to paint. I decided to seal the other this morning and get busy. No such luck, it wrinkled. So I went to the one I sealed last night and decided to test. I hit it with a flash coat( Misted from about 15 inches away) I waited 5 mins blew a little hot air on it to warm it some. another flash coat just a little heavier, waited about 15 mins. Hot air again, just to warm the surface. Then I hit it with a moderate final coat. Within mins. it had wrinkles all over it.

    I wash every blank in mild soap and water. Then I wash them again in DA. So I know I am getting the mold release and soap off.

    It has to be the primer. Right? What am I missing? I could understand if I was spraying it(gloss) to heavy. Even if I was spraying it to heavy, shouldnt it just eat my paint. It looks like I sprayed it with a paint stripper. I was told these products were compatible. But clearly they must not be. Right? I should have tossed the primer and went bach to a automotive primer I was using. But I really trust the info I got on these products. Does anyone see where I am going wrong in my process?

    Thanks for any help.
  2. Joey,
    I like to brush on "Kilz" white primer. Let it dry over night. Then begin the paint finish. I have not had a problem yet...perhaps drying time is key..

  3. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    I thought that too one time on one of the others, but this last catfish set over night before I sealed it. I read in the archives someone else was using kilz. I am going to try that I guess
  4. LionHeart

    LionHeart New Member

    Dondi, do you seal the blank after the "Kilz" or do you start painting directly on it?

    Joey, sorry, I have no experience in painting blanks....
  5. Manny

    Manny New Member

    When I usto cast resin minitures, I would run into that problem sometimes.

    My problem was my mix of resins, sometimes they would still leech out even after I washed them.

    Could be the casts , Maybe :-\
  6. ljones

    ljones 1994 wasco award winner

    i also use the kilz primer with no problems , i use a 2 part automotive clearcoat for gloss, that is compatable with the paint i use even on old repaint jobs.
  7. Lion Heart,
    If you are going to antique the blank, after the kilz prime, I would lightly seal it...
  8. JE

    JE Well-Known Member

    I would speak to someone at Rustolem, they may be able to help.
  9. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    just got some kilz to try later... but found some shellac based primer at the hardware store. I know it will work for these two bluecats. I have to give the kilz a try though. I am sure it will cover better.
  10. fishmaster

    fishmaster Well-Known Member

    Dittos to the kilz. I use the spray can variety. I tried the white shelac which was Zinnser brand. Didn't have good results with that. The kilz has worked well for painting over with lacquer and water based. Good luck
  11. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    I buy whatever white primer is the cheapest - lol! Right now I have a couple of cans of white Rustoleum bare metal primer because the hardware store was out of all of their auto primers. I used it to blend a few areas where I had to attach heads with no ill effects. However, the cans are at least a few months old (probably much older) and maybe your cans were newer and perhaps Rustoleum changed the formula???

    I've used Kilz in the past to cover some greasy areas on an existing Laker that I did a restore on. But, personally I don't care for it for normal priming of blanks. It's too thick. I like laying down just regular primer in a few layers to get coverage. As far as priming blanks go, every distributor I've ordered from comes primed. I don't seal them either. The only reason I seal skin mounts is so that I can see if I missed any areas where I may need repair. Otherwise, I'm not sure of the purpose of sealing - especially on replicas???

    Not to state the obvious, but I'd switch brands and see what happens. Isolate the problem and work from there...
  12. A- Fish

    A- Fish Stehling's Taxidermy

    If I recall, Rustoleum ( gloss and primers) are not flexible. Something to keep in mind.

    I would go with an automotive primer .

    As far the wrinkles, definitely an adhesion issue. Are the blanks all from the same supplier ? Quite possibly some residual mold release( or what the blank if made of) is not compatible with the primer. Same deal with the spider webing look. If any of the blanks you are using are urethane based,it is absolutely a comparability issue with the blank itself. If is tough to get good adhesion on urethanes .

    Go back to automotive primers !!
  13. Joey Arender

    Joey Arender big mouth alert

    I seal marty casue it is what I was taught. I dont think its needed. and this brand was working well until I decide to buy six cans while I was at home depot.

    The bluecat blanks came from (1)LCR and I ordered it unassembled. so I primed it when I got finihed putting it together and the other (1)starfish primed so I would have a even surface to statr with.

    the others have been on custom cast, lcr, arp. So not just one supplier and I know I wash the blanks well. I know its the primer, but I have been told twice on the phone and twice in emails that they are compatable. That it must be something I am doing. not sealing it was what thought the problem was... BUt Trust me that primer is gone. Talk about a profit killer LOL

    I just wanted to make sure I wasnt the only one that could see the "obvious" or at least what I precieved it to be. For whatever reason this combo just doesnt work for me. My old cheap stuff did..

    Thanks yall
  14. antlermike

    antlermike Active Member

    Hey Joey I had the same prob with a LCR striper last month I think is was the primer tho. So I washed it all off with acitone and started over. after I primed it I lightly sealed it with hydromist basecoat sealer. No probs from there on also I let the primer dry overnight before sealing. I think a heat gun may evaporate some of the solvents to fast and take away some of the flexibility which could of caused the alligatoring effect. Dryness and humidity also could effect it, best case would be prime one day seal next day paint a day later.
  15. i have had that same problem i wondered if it might be moisture since it was in a can
  16. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I use a spray on primer called Super Silver available at Michael's. I like to prime with a shiny silver as an undercoat. I was told rustoleum silver or other types will do what you said. Good luck.