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Eyes

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by ET-Taxidermy, Apr 28, 2010.

  1. ET-Taxidermy

    ET-Taxidermy New Member

    I was wondering if anybody accounts for any shrinkage on eye skin?
    I did a deer and after it dried completely it was bug-eyed so I now I add a little more clay to my mounts and the eyes look sunken in. Doesn't matter on what animal ( hog, dear coon...), it seems now that it doesn't want to cooperate. I set my own eyes because I need the practice being new. I have watched and read every article on this from this site and from when I went to school. When I do the clay it looks great on the manikin, when I go to tuck the eye is when It seems to go wrong.
    I guess what I'm asking is does anyone have a tip that might help me?
     
  2. Use more clay than you think you would need. You can always smooth it out and tone it down. Then watch and work and shape the eyes,ears and nose for about three days as it dries.Tuck more clay if needed. Make sure the size ,shape and depth of the eyes are the same.
    Hope that will help !
     

  3. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Are you thinning around the eyes enough? If it's really thin, it won't shrink that much. Look at the "Forms without hides" thread. That should help some.
     
  4. evil x

    evil x Member

    84
    0
    What kind of clay are you using?
     
  5. x 2 on the thining, dont thin just the eye but all around the the facce, from all around the tearduct, earbutt,forhead, the more you thin the better. and usae a good hide paste.
     
  6. ET-Taxidermy

    ET-Taxidermy New Member

    I am using critter clay. I go over my eyes 1 last time before I mount, always. I think its more my technique than anything, I thinking just more practice and pinning. I eventually get the shape, it just takes me a very, long time, kinda frustrating.
     
  7. Wayne R

    Wayne R NRA and B&C Life Member

    IMO most people are using too much clay. Boarhunt and uatree addressed the real problem. The skin around the eyes, and other key areas as well need to be shaved down as thin as possible. The eye lids themselves need to be split, and the fat cells that run along the eyelashes need to be removed, plus the use of a good quality hide paste will eliminate a lot of problems. I prefer to clay in my eyes, and cut in an area to tuck the eyes the day before. I place a plastic bag on it overnight, so that it doesn't dry out completely, but just firm up enough so that when you do tuck the eye skin in, you don't destroy your clay work doing so. The moisture from the cape will soften the clay back up again, and it should be watched over the next few days as it dries. I place a plastic bag over the head for the first few days, to keep it from drying out too fast.
     
  8. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    The skin around my mounts' eyes don't usually move much and I don't tuck. I use the lay method. Also I only use one or two pins.
     
  9. Wayne R

    Wayne R NRA and B&C Life Member

    I don't use any pins, just keep an eye on it for a few days and let dry slow, but the skin has to be paper thin and a good hide paste.
     
  10. ET-Taxidermy

    ET-Taxidermy New Member

    I really like the idea of clay the night before, great idea. I do feel my clay is to soft and that is why I fight it. When i pin it usually pushes out of place.
     
  11. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I use a skife knife and thin when it's in the acid at the same time I thin the rest on the fleshign wheel. Then, after tanning, I use a dremmel with a sanding bit and thin it down super thin. I thin down the whole face, but for the parts I want this thin I do about a 3" circle around each eye, the nose and the lips.