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Disco Turkey

Discussion in 'Bird Taxidermy' started by ET-Taxidermy, Jun 8, 2010.

  1. ET-Taxidermy

    ET-Taxidermy New Member

    My good friend (Best Word of mouth customer to my new taxidermy business) brought me a turkey. Now this bird has been shot more than once. If you were to put a flashlight in its anus it would look like a Disco Ball ! After skinning and fleshing (Me adding to injury with the wheel) I have at least 1million holes.
    Now I have learned the caulk way of mounting. He insists on a strutting mount( I really owe this guy, not for free though). There is no way I can see Me using caulk being new and very limited experience.
    My 2 worries are it will take to long to sew and drying issues and I won't get the feathers to puff out like a good strut.
    Any suggestions will help. I am not turning this away, Never Give Up! I know this one will hurt but pay off in the future.
  2. mark11

    mark11 now accepting new wholesale clients

    for me in a turkey sized bird if a hole is smaller than a quarter or isn't in a place that messes with a specific feather pattern i don't sew it. i do most of my caulking from the outside from small incisions i make to fit the tip of the caulk gun into and if you are careful you can work around everything. if it is absolutely mangled with holes it is also possible to do a great quality mount without using caulk at all. caulk is just one of the tools we learn to use it isn't a necessity, anatomy and reference are the important parts, you may have to spend a little extra time babysitting it without the caulk to help hold things where you put them, but it is still possible to do it.


  3. I would, at least, entertain the idea of using another skin. Ask him, and he'll probably agree to it - especially since he busted it up to start with. It could still have his legs, beard, and fan.
  4. trophy mount TN

    trophy mount TN Trophy Mount Taxidermy

    x2 on using another cape if available.
  5. ET-Taxidermy

    ET-Taxidermy New Member

    Mark would recommend using any soft material on form so the feather quills can float a little? I'm also thinking caulking after skin is on through neck and anus is the only caulk i'm going to get. I guess I was looking for some miracle. New Cape is out of the question.
  6. mark11

    mark11 now accepting new wholesale clients

    the only time i have ever had a problem with feather quills against foam was when the fit was too tight and wouldn't allow the feathers to move well, i wrap 98% of my bodies including turkeys and can get the feathers to do what i want without anything between them and the wraped body as well. i do use silicone in the back of strutters not because it is necessary but because i want it to go around the quills mix with the borax and kick quick so i don't have to babysit it so much. i am hearing more and more guys talk about "floating" something between the skin and the form. what is the purpose of making sure our anatomy is as correct as possible if we are going to go in and start changing that anatomy with everything we are trying to place between the skin and the body. for anyone that hasn't done it yet go to nancyc's page of bird pictures, she has a widgeon mounted on there that is a cutaway one side is a beautiful mount, the other side has the skin cut away revealing the inner mechanics, it is a beautiful piece and there is nothing "floating" in there. also when it comes to using caulk of any kind, if you are getting huge messes of caulk coming out of holes then you are using too much caulk. and when it comes to shot holes anything that might come out of those holes is going to be down next to the skin, even if a little squirts through it isn't going to matter unless you are reaching down into the feathers and getting it onto your fingers and them getting it on the feathers. not trying to get a debate or arguement going but when it comes to going with replacement skins, ok sometimes it is necessary, but more often than not, with birds it is unnecessary, we go for it because it is easier to do, but the end result is we are now creating a generation of up and coming taxidermists that don't have a clue how repair or salvage a skin and really don't have a clue as to what is really necessary to repair. you have only given us a description of the skin of this bird, which, in reality, probably isn't as bad as you have yourself believing it is and will require far less repair than you have anxiety about. the only reason i would consider a replacement skin would be if there was extensive feather damage, skin is no big deal, destroyed feathers are. i believe it was john harle a few months ago posted a woodcock he did that had fallen apart and he mounted it by attaching the strips of skin containing the feather tracts only and produced an absolutely gorgeous mount, if it was someone else who did this i appologize i'm getting older and my memory may not be what it once was. would love to see some pictures of this skin maybe in a new post and hear some different ideas as to what is necessary to repair and methods used to do the repairs, could make for an interesting learning experience for all.
  7. why not try dryer sheets and super glue, quick and easy on smaller holes. Works for me.
  8. duckstuffer_99

    duckstuffer_99 Member

    Sometimes we the taxidermist forget that we're taxidermists' and not Plastic Surgeons!!! Sometimes I feel it necessary to explain that to the customer....in a very polite manner of course. If you do a massive repair job once they will come to expect miracle's every time. Educate them. Tell them to leave the 3 1/2 inch in the closet and use the 2 3/4"!!!! Or just explain that they shot the hell out of it so it may not look the best. Had a guy remove most of the back feathers in an errant shot and wanted a full strut mount, after explaining what it might look like I did my best......can't replace feathers that just aren't there!!! Good luck with your dilemna!!
  9. stickn

    stickn New Member

    i have a question for mark and you other guys im mounting my first turkey its a strut and i cut the wings on the outside and im unsure how to fix it if i cant do a good enough sew job is their any other method to fix this so i am able to shoot the caulk into the wings to set the feather quills thanks chris
  10. mark11

    mark11 now accepting new wholesale clients

    by "I cut the wings on the outside" i assume you mean that you split the wings on the bottom side. if this is the case then it is a simple fix, but first, if you split the wings then you shouldn't have feather quills that need to be set, the only reason for splitting a birds wings is to leave all of the secondary feathers attached to the bone, if you are going to detach the feathers then you may as well just invert the wings instead of splitting them. closing them back up is simple, since it is going to be a closed wing mount what the seam looks like doesn't matter, it will never show so you can either just sew it up or you can pull it together and staple it. i put the caulking in wings by making a small incision under the scaps and inserting the tip of the caulk gun through this and down into the wing and squirt the caulk in and then gently work the caulk around, as long as you don't overfill the wings or get aggressive in moving the caulk around you can do whatever you want with it and it isn't going to give you any problems just don't leave any large gaps if you staple it back together. and again, it is a closed wing mount so even if a little finds a hole just take a little cotton or fiberfill and with tweezers push it into the hole to plug it up, the wings are closed up against the body (even for a strutt mount) so what goes on under them won't be seen. i split the wings on all of my turkeys even flying birds, the only thing i do differently for an open wing turkey is i split it a little higher on the wing where it is feathered heavier and i sew it a lot closer and carefully so there won't be any gaps left for surprise leaks later. hope this helps.

  11. stickn

    stickn New Member

    it helps alot thanks mark