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anyone ever had this problem?

Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by justinj, Jul 17, 2010.

  1. justinj

    justinj Member

    built a new degreasing tank. Basically a bathtub with a heating element on a thermostat. all the plumbing for the drain is plastic. And it has a water pump to keep things moving. I can fit about 8-10 deer and a bunch of bear in gallon bags. I was covering it in plastic to help hold temp and keep evaporation down. I only use dawn and water and once it was covered my antlers lost alot of their color and it seems like it all went right into the skulls. They were almost done until I covered it, and now the top half of each skull is solid grease and antlers are white. I know some of you guys have enclosed degreasing setups. Anyone ever see this before?
     
  2. are you sure its grease and not dirt and bark off the antlers ?
     

  3. MattHCT

    MattHCT New Member

    Bleach Alt dawn will bleach your antlers.
    I keep the water level at or below the burrs.
    Toxic has a good point, it could be bark bleeding out.
     
  4. MattHCT

    MattHCT New Member

    If the top of the skulls are grease, did the water evap down to that point?
    The top of the skulls can be the last/toughest areas to get degreased.
     
  5. Hey just

    Go to your local craft supply store-- purchase liquid latex---the kind that would be used to make female molds for doing castings

    Coat the antlers w/ 3-4 coats of the liquid latex --letting each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next--

    This will keep the antlers from being affected at all during maceration or the degreasing solution--

    Keep the latex in place when you place the skull into H202 for whitening-- bring the peroxide solution up to w/I one inch of the base
    of the horns and then use paper towels wrapped around the base w/ a portion of the towel in the liquid-- capillary action will cause the H202 to
    move up the towel onto the skull-- (someone just suggested that the process of the H202 moving up the towel is diffusion not capillary action???
    whichever-- you get the idea)

    when you have the skull cleaning/whitening process complete-- peel off the latex from the horns- -you may need to stain a very little
    bit of the knobs where the horn joins the head but other than that-- the horns will look like they did when the customer brought you the head---

    Regarding your present situation-- you are going to have to experiment w/ various stains to get the antlers back to something similar to their original color--
    I don't have any experience w/ re-staining to that degree-- sorry
    OR
     
  6. You can also buy liquid laytex at Party city for about $3-$5 a bottle around halloween.
     
  7. justinj

    justinj Member

    I just use blue dawn. The antlers are no problem to restain. It is not the dirt and stuff. I could be over thinking it but you should see these skulls. Another guy around here told me that he had this problem when he covered it and I didnt really beleive him.
     
  8. emict326

    emict326 New Member

    i did have that problam when i first started, what happend is the soap bubbles actually cooked for lack of a better term depositting there grease back onto the the skull, i was able to take clean plane warm water and a wash cloth and got a lot of it off, i then let the skull set fully submerged in plane water for about a week and the grease came off. as long as i keep an eye on the water level and keep it up and the temp below 120 it does not happen