Beginer has question on 1/2 lifesize doe

you could cut it down the back with a dorsal incision, like I would for a lifesize. less sewing than a "rug cut" where the legs would be completely spilt to the brisket

 

Shave your hide thin at the seam.hide some hide past so your not sewing in glue,when finished work the past under the seam.

 

Sorry, but I'd NEVER - EVER split a lifesized deer down the back. In fact, I'd make as few cuts as possible. Does can be skinned out without any cuts except for those made on the legs from the knees to the hooves. Stop thinking about sewing the skin and start thinking about cutting the form. If you tube her out, you cut the head off the form with a "V" cut at the base of the jaw. Now you can mount the head inside the tube first and then slide the skin over the cut off neck. A dollop of epoxy glues the head in place after pinning it in position.
Cut the front legs off with the same "V" and insert them into the hide, sew up the back side of the hocks and fold your skin back. Put a dollop of epoxy in each leg and pin it in place. When the epoxy cures, you stretch the hide back and staple it down. Your deer will have only two seams to be seen and those will be on the backside of the legs where few will notice.

I still say no one can sew a deer dorsal cut where it won't be seen or felt . Deer hair has varying tints to it and any hair sew out of place or caught in a stitch whorl is going to show.. And forget the baseball stitch unless you want the skin to pucker just like it does on a baseball. Use the whip stitch and don't over cinch it.

 

George thanks for that info that you just gave us. I have two questions though, where do you cut the let cut at and is epoxy enough or should we put a rod or something in also. Thanks

 

I'm assuming you meant "leg" instead of "let". I wedge them off right at the shoulders. Before I cut them off, however, I cut in a relief slot and THEN cut them off. Just two 45 degree angles under the shoulder. When I put them back in place with the epoxy, I usually "pin" them in place with two or three lengths of #6 wire. You can drive a sharpened spike into the shoulder through the hide without mussing up the hide or repairing a hole. Someone once told me "well, if it falls on the floor, this might not hold." It truly might not, but if the mount falls on the floor, I'm more worried about an ear breaking off or the nose area being crushed than I am the epoxied and pinned joint cracking.

 

Thanks George and yes I meant LEG, read it after I sent it-not good. But thanks again

 

Rocket science is a BITCH.