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Your techniques for white detail on trout heads ?

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by Cecil, Mar 11, 2007.

  1. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    What techniques work best for you to add the white detail on trout heads e.g. just behind the mandible, in the cirular fissure on the gill cover, between the branchiostegal rays etc. I have been sealing my head after all the painting is done with lacquer paints, and then using water based white for this. If there is any overspray I simply wipe it off with windex and a q-tip which does no harm to the lacquer painted areas.

    I assume some of you may be hand painting thiese areas or using some kind of frisking liquid or both? I tried the hand painting and it was too tricky for me! Anybody else do what I do? Any other ideas?
     
  2. hunterray2002

    hunterray2002 http://www.finandfoto.com

    I pretty much do exactly what you don't like todo cecil on the gill cover. I use pearl ex powders , with sometimes a small fan brush . or I will use

    the powders and an eye liner applicator. then seal. Just a methoud of personal prefferance . Something I kinda have grown addapted to.
     

  3. Sikk

    Sikk Member

    Cecil, all I use is water based paints and I basically do the same as you. I seal the area and then add the detail and remove what I do not want. I have been looking at trying pencils, chalk and other things. But being a beginner its all trial and error for me. I am experimenting with these powders etc, but have alot to learn about my limitations. Question for you Cecil. I just painted some halibut tails and had really nice detail, was very happy with the look, when I sealed using several light coats of aeresol krylon, my detail blurred, nice dark round spots blurred on the edges and faded, what am I doing wrong? do I need to let the water based paints dry longer before sealing? thanks paul
     
  4. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Yes different strokes for different folks!
     
  5. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Not sure what to tell you, but now that I use an automotive clear coat I have not had any problems. Could be the Krylon is too harsh for the water base paints or incompatible for some reason. Or did you put down several flash coats first? If not, that might be your problem. I had nothing but trouble with aerosols in the past and don't consider them very cost effective, due to the amount of aerosol in the can, that takes up space that could be used for the actual clear coat. I'm also not happy with the the depth of the clear coat compared to the automotive clear coat.
     
  6. Sikk

    Sikk Member

    Cecil, I really appreciate your effort here for me, could I ask what auto clear coat you recomend and what equipment do I need to apply it? , I would like to try this type of clear coating intead. just very unhappy with the can types.thanks so very much paul
     
  7. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    I think just about any quality automotive 4:1 clear coat would do just fine. I'm using something called Autobody Master Professional Production Clear and the catalylist is a medium # 9005. Please, please, if you use this kind of product make sure you wear a mask and an exhaust fan. I've heard of some guys going outside. (With my luck a monster dragonfly would land on the fish)

    Here's a good recommendation from Captain Bryan for what he likes to use:

    http://www.montanabigsky.com/
     
  8. Perca

    Perca Well-Known Member

    1,569
    43
    PM sent. ;D
     
  9. Sikk

    Sikk Member

    Cecil, I am sorry and I did not intend to steal your thread, I would still like to hear some answers to Cecils original question guys, I have a lot to learn here. thanks paul
     
  10. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Someone's worried about stealing threads here! :eek: :eek: :eek:

    Paul, no worries I think it's been covered.