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Help with masters blend

Discussion in 'Bird Taxidermy' started by bpbigperm, Apr 26, 2011.

  1. So I ran out of the bird feet injector I was using and had to order more. This time I went with Masters Blend after reading posts by others on this site about how they liked it. The problem I am having is the set up time. I mix a batch, put it in the needle, and inject one foot. By the time I get to the second foot the remainder in the syringe is hardened. I know I could just mix 2 small batches, I was just wondering what other people who use this product do. Do you cut it with something? I am storing it in the refrigerator, should I not be doing that?
  2. rnviper3

    rnviper3 New Member

    I pour a small amount of A in one baby food jar, and B in another. suck up 1 cc of A into your needle then 1cc of B. suck up the rest with air then shake. push out the air and inject. Immediately suck up lacquer and blow it out to clean the masters blend out. repeat until your done. I can do 5 turkeys at once this way without ruining the needle. I toss it after I'm done.

  3. I do it the same way except I draw it right out of the cans, and I've never had a problem with contaminating the other. I leave just enough air to shake and mix. After injecting one foot I immediately draw up thinner, shake well, and blow it out several times. I use the same needle over and over this way.
  4. X2 on what gurstaxidermy said. Never had any contamination issues drawing it right out of the containers.
  5. full fan

    full fan New Member

    pour into paper Dixie cup & do as the others ;D
  6. I fill 2 syringes up, one with A and one with B. I let them sit in a bowl of ice water. I shoot 1 cc of each into a 3rd syringe. Inject, clean and repeat, sam as others.
  7. Just like RN does.

    Why run the risk of ruining the mother load by drawing directly out of the supplier's cans? Not worth it. Just use small jars. I use a 3ml, 25g 5/8" syringe. You can draw 1 to 1.5ml of A & B into the syringe and then shake it up. Keep the cans in the fridge, when not in use, to slow the setting acting.

    I use acetone instead of Lacquer thinner.
  8. Nancy C

    Nancy C Well-Known Member

    I use a couple of cheap shot glasses from Walmart instead of Dixie cups and other than that I use pretty much the same method as rnviper3. (I got some small cups once that the Masters's Blend destroyed, so I have been leary of trusting it to disposeable cups ever since.) I keep the main cans in the refrigerator and only pour out a little bit of A and B as needed. (My shot glasses have measurements on the sides and I find that to be helpful, plus they clean up easily with lacquer thinner.)
    Using a 3cc (3ml) syringe and a 22ga needle, I pull up 1cc of A, wipe the needle, and then pull up 1cc of B. Pull up another 1/2cc of air and then rock it back and forth a few times until it is mixed. Hold the syringe vertically, needle up, cover the needle with a bit of paper towel or etc, and gently expel the air. Inject, quickly plug the hole with a corsage pin (or something similar), and then immediately fill the syringe with laquer thinner.
    Another thing that I do is periodically pull out the syringe's plunger and wipe the sides of the rubber tip with a very small amount of air tool oil. (much less than a drop) I find that this helps it to work smoother and it seems to have no effect at all on the Master's Blend. I use air tool oil since that is what is already on my desk, but I suspect that any kind of machine oil would work.
  9. I mount about a dozen birds every year & I don't mount any during hunting season. I bought some last year & didn't use much of it before hunting season. I started up again this year & it takes it longer to kick because of shelf life issues. I really like it a lot better now.
  10. idbatman

    idbatman Active Member

    I like the paper cups to fill the syringe out of . I also have had a lot less trouble since I started keeping my MB in the freezer. I also refill the syringe immediately with the dark component as I am using it , it keeps it from kicking off . Clean up is with acetone . But I also found I could buy a gross of syringes , with the shipping for about $15 a piece .
  11. Matt

    Matt Active Member

    Ditto on what gurstaxidermy said, I have been doing that for years, and on syringe goes along way. I use acetone instead of thinner though, and just keep one bottle for cleaning the syringes.
  12. Wildthings

    Wildthings Well-Known Member

    This is what I do and when I'm done I put the left over "A" & "B" back in their respective cans. That 3rd syringe usually last me a dozen birds. Of course, like all I clean it with acetone in between injections.
  13. James Parrish

    James Parrish Tundra Swan...Its What's For Dinner!

    I have posted my method several times before, but I will do it again. I have had a lot of luck using MB, but it does require a good technique. First, I store the Master Blend in the freezer. I pull it out when I am ready to inject. If you have a lot of feet to do or it is really warm in your shop, I would recommend sitting the MB cans in an ice bath to keep it cold and allow you plenty of working time. After removing the feet from the bird, I will put zap a gap over any shot holes or holes where I blew the wire out of the foot and then sprinkle borax on the zap a gap. I use a 10mL syringe and different size needles based on the bird (21 or 23ga for ducks, 19 or 20 GA for swans, geese, turkey, etc). I lube the plunger with vaseline and draw up part A and an equal amount of part B into the syringe directly from the can (unless I am at the bottom and cannot reach with my needle). Shake to mix and expel the air. Start at the toenail of one toe and work up the leg. Repeat for the other toes and the other parts of the leg. Sometimes, I will need to mix more Masters Blend to finish a foot. If so, I usually do so without cleaning the syringe, if possible. If I do need to clean the syringe, I will draw some acetone into it, shake it around, and expel the acetone back into the jar. If you do this, you will need to re-lubricate the plunger. Once I have to foot injected, I will drop it into a jar of acetone (small feet) without putting pins in the needle holes. The acetone keeps the MB from leaking out. On larger feet, I will put a T-pin in each hole as I withdraw the needle and use a brush to clean the foot with acetone to remove residual Masters Blend. Once the MB kicks in a foot but before it sets really hard, I remove it from the acetone and then bend it if it is a standing bird. Then, I pose it on the base and card the webs. If it is a flying type foot (or hanging dead, sitting, etc), I will simply card the webs and let it dry. On the large feet, I wait until the next day to remove the pins. I let small feet dry for a day before painting. On larger feet, I like to let them dry for 3 days or so before filling the pin holes and painting.

    As I said, this has worked really well for me for years with zero problems. I use the same process for commercial or competition work. Good luck.
  14. dmac1175

    dmac1175 Active Member

    If it is a flying type foot (or hanging dead, sitting, etc), I will simply card the webs and let it dry. On the large feet, I wait until the next day to remove the pins. I let small feet dry for a day before painting. On larger feet, I like to let them dry for 3 days or so before filling the pin holes and painting.

    Im glad to know you dont have to wait ten days to paint. That is what I read somewhere else.
  15. very helpful, thank you.