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Relaxing Ears and Noses

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by gzustak, Aug 9, 2011.

  1. Aug 9, 2011 #1
    gzustak

    gzustak New Member

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    I just received my hides from the tannery in Idaho. These are animals I trapped last winter and I hope to make various craft items and garments from the furs. They include raccoon, bobcat, coyote, beaver, red and grey fox, and an otter. They were case skinned (except for the beaver), fleshed and dried on stretchers prior to shipping to the tanner. I had a choice to specify either "taxidermy tan" or "garment tan" and I chose "garment tan". I am, for the most part, pleased with how they came out. The hides have lots of stretch to them and they are soft and supple. Except for the faces. The noses and ears are scrunched up, dried and hard as rocks. Could someone tell me if the ears and noses can be softened? If so, what would be the best way to proceed? Can I just soak them in warm water for awhile? Or should I use a tanning oil such as Protal. I hope to open some of the hides up (they are still cased) and would like to staighten out the faces and ears. Is it okay to rewet to the entire hide in order to tack them out and re-dry them into a spread-open wall hanging, suitable for lining with felt. I'm thinking that maybe I should have chosen the "taxidermy tan". What's the difference?
    George
     
  3. Aug 9, 2011 #2
    redwolf

    redwolf Active Member

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    They need to be rehydrated. Some use just water, some use water with a hand full of salt in it, or fabric softener, or a relaxing agent bought from a supplier. It's up to you on which bath you want to use.
    The ears and nose will be the last to soften up and may need to be worked a little. Then after an hour or 2 (sometimes longer) they get taken out and rung out, let hang and drip for a few minutes and bagged up good. Throw it in a refrigerator to sweat over night and they should be ready to go the next day.

    You can also call the tannery and ask them how they suggest you rehydrate them.

    And I believe after you rehydrate them you'll notice the ears weren't turned (if you didn't do it before sending) because they were garment tanned)
     

  5. Aug 9, 2011 #3
    gzustak

    gzustak New Member

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    Thank you RedWolf! I'll try soaking the heads for a couple hours and then sweating in the fridge overnight. Hopefully out of all those skins I will have a few intact heads that I can dress up. I noticed that on some the bases of the ears were torn or the ears are missing. I skinned the back of the ears out, all the way to the tips, and removed most of the cartilage prior to drying and shipping. Also on bobcat and fox I skinned the feet out all the way to the claws. The garment tanning process must be pretty hard on the more delicate parts as many of the ears appear damaged, some of the claws on the cats are missing, and the eyeholes are enlarged where the CITES tag was threaded through. Overall the skins appear shrunken. They still have quite a bit of stretch to them. Sure makes the fur look lush and thick (for a Georgia critter). I may try to rehydrate an entire skin and stretch/tack it out to dry into a size and shape more suitable for a wall hanging.
     
  6. Aug 9, 2011 #4
    redwolf

    redwolf Active Member

    21,976
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    I'm not 100% positive, but I think it has something to do with the breaking or tumbling that makes a difference in taxidermy and garment tanned. But for now on you should go with the taxidermy tan.
     
  7. Aug 11, 2011 #5
    Fernando

    Fernando Member

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    DO NOT SOAK the hide,no need for it,first get a spray bottle,fill it with water,put a hand full of salt in it,shake it good,the water can be luke warm,start by spraying the face,ears nose,eyes etc,get small plastic bag and put head inside,as it softens slightly work the lips,eyes,nose and you will see them starting to give,ears take a little longer,as soon as they are slightly softer,you can protal the whole skin and fold it,protal will penetrate the dry leather and soften it,work skin as it dries or stretch to tack skin to board,by spraying salt water into the head,yo're softning the head just long enough for the protal to penetrate fairly equal,if you don't want to use the protal,do the same you did to the head,spray the body,leather side and it will soften pretty easy.Any more questions,just ask,will try to answer if i can.
     
  8. Aug 27, 2011 #6
    gzustak

    gzustak New Member

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    Thanks Fernando! I just noticed your reply after being out-of-town for awhile. I have some Van Dyke's Protal so will try your method.
    I have a few bobcats and coyotes that I may want to turn into wall rugs. The kind with a felt liner and a mounted head. I know little about taxidery but have seen the forms for the rug heads in Van Dykes catalog. These animals have been case skinned so I figure I need to split them open, soften them, restretch and tack out to dry, trim to shape, relax the head and face, insert the form into the head. Relax and shape the paws. Sew felt liner on the leather side. Does this sequence sound about right? Or can you recommend a good book or tutorial on wall rugs?
    George