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The S & S Fleshing Machine, The Dakota Pro and or The Gold Standard Flesher

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by wb24, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. The S & S is an extremely well built machine, the guys who make them are top notch machinists. With the time they must have invested they are just getting paid for their work, it's up to the consumer to decide if they feel something cheaper can do the same job.

    Gold Standard is actually designed by Steve McCredie, he has them built and they are sold through Dan Rinehart and Matuska.

    The dakota pro is a pretty machine, if they'd beef it up a little and get rid of all those goofy little micro adjust screws, and the little thumb screws that hold the hood on they be onto something that would handle hard use.

    Aubrey pretty much listed it all, the only things I don't go along with him on is one, the motor size, I've run 1/2 horse motors for years with no trouble, and two, the powder coating, we do that and it holds up pretty good.

    I know it's not what you're asking about, but the one we built for McKenzie to sell until they bought Vandykes is a good solid machine for a taxidermist. If you want to shave from the right side of the machine like Aubrey does we can even flip the frame around so the motor is on the other side. Not sure where you're from, but anybody that buys one from us is welcome to come and spend a day in the tannery too.
  2. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Here is a good one! :eek: ::)


  3. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    LMAO Aubrey. Now why did I KNOW someone was going to drag out that Authentic Flesher. Why someone never got electrocuted on that thing I'll never understand.

    Keith I do agree with you on the cost of the S&S machine. I know what I pay a machinest for a custom made rifle. Thats why I asked if the guy was a taxidermist. I know fleshing/shaving machines are a staple in you tanners business but for taxidermist, it simply serves as a utilitarian tool. The things you guys demand in a machine seldom get approached by most taxidermists. When they get to that point, the begin sending all their hides to you guys to do. I maintain that there IS a difference between the two requirements of these jobs.
  4. pir^2h

    pir^2h Retrievers give you the bird

    Does that thing actually work? I will stick to my Dakota IV and if and when I decide to get another machine, I think it will be the Dakota Pro.
  5. Justin P.

    Justin P. Active Member

    Is that UL approved???? Yikes!
  6. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    I got rid of most of what I said earlier.(big surprise there) I actually took time to look at some different machines, and I stepped on alot of toes with one stomp! Just speaking from past personal experiences and observations.

    Here is a picture of a Rawhide. Its basic, simple to adjust, and simple to steel. The back "belly protector" is rounded, and user friendly. I have used one of these, so I CAN SAY, its a real workhorse. I dont know if you can buy these anymore, but, you can see the simplicity I was refering to. I PROMISE you, you can do anything on one of these, as you can a flashy one.

    Make a table top similar to this, and I think it will sell very well! (not saying to copy)

    Attached Files:

  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    That's the floor model version and obviously one that hasn't been used often or yet. I preferred the tabletop model for a multitude of reasons. One, I established the height by the table height so that the blade cowl would fit right into the crease of my armpit without me bending over, I could create a chute for the shavings and meat to be fed away from my shoe tops, and clean up could be easier. Here's my set up with a stainless veneer table top with a Teflon shoot down through the table into a small plastic trash can (with a knob installed so I can slide it in and out) so that clean up is fast and mess free.


    This shows the chute going down through the table.


    And finally, a shot from beneath showing the trash can collection scheme.


    If you look closely to the right of the chute, you can see the exposed shank of a screw sticking down. The tension on the belt is determined solely by the weight of the motor and the mount bracket using gravity. When I get some of the tougher or larger hides - moose, bison, and boar - and I intend to put a bit of back into the shaving, I have a shim that's braced from the base of that screw up against the motor mount bracket insure that the belt does not slip while I'm grunting and groaning.
  8. paul e

    paul e New Member

    Nice setup Uncle George
    i think i will tweak mine similar to what you show
    i fabed a all s.s. table with adjustable legs but your set up with shaving removal it sweet

    now ill say this from a fab/machinist/taxidermist point of view
    i think there are several good points all around

    and i must admit Keith and Aubry that with the pro i did alterations to make it suit me
    something that the regular joe might not do so easily

    first i fixed the lower post
    second i machined a left guard to dip a little lower(should have done it out of brass)
    third i changed the bearings after a few years(never had trouble but got bored one day and did preventive maintenance

    the mirco screw i actually love
    after having to use a hammer to adjust my old one it was a improvement

    but the cost was not painful and i love my machine
    ill tweak the shaving removal and i think all will still be well

    now im not anything and dont do hundreds of capes a day
    but i can only speak for myself im satisfied
  9. I agree George, there is a difference between what a taxidermist needs and a tannery, that's why I said it's up to the individual to decide if it's worth the cost. My guard and adjustment is very similar to what you have in the rawhide pictures, I think the design was taken from Reliable and/or Monarch, machines that were production machines for many years in tanneries, simple and effective, no hammer needed to adjust a guard! One bolt lets you make lots of adjustments in about the time it takes to pickup the Allen wrench then set it back on the table.

    Aubrey, what was wrong with the list you posted? It was a pretty straight forward opinion from experience. You sure got that thing cleaned and painted up pretty, I feel sorry for the girl in front of it, she won't be pretty for long once the shaver is running! Didn't know Atlas sold in 5 gallon bucket either :)
  10. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Not mine Keith. Got the photo from the Archives. http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,27477.0.html
  11. I have an old Monarch machine with a one horse motor hooked up to it. I have tried to bog the motor and have failed everytime. The guard adjustments are simple and are built to last. Any of you fellas know of an extra set of guards layin around that I can buy?
  12. If they're like the ones you see in the pictures above I think mine will fit, but they'll be brand new.
  13. Can't see pics from my stoopid phone. How much for the set if they will work?
  14. Redwolf posted pics to my FB wall. They are identical guards. Almost everything is identical as a matter of fact.
  15. I need to check, but I believe I need to take the pattern to the foundry and get more cast. Depending on what the cost of the next casting is you're probably looking at about $45.00 for the pair. Brass got really expensive a few years ago. :'(
  16. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Does Quebec Fleshing machines still have a website? I cant find it.
  17. Aubrey, I know Quebec was trying to sell the business a little while back, not sure what their status is.