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Make your own custom tree limb

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by George, Apr 10, 2007.

  1. Very interesting George, I've learned something today
    thank you
  2. 2wbdft

    2wbdft Member

    i know its an "oldie but a goodie"....

    just wanted to say thanks to George, i recently used this technique to build "the Perfect limb" and it turned out great! 8)

  3. Southland Taxidermy

    Southland Taxidermy Join your State and National Taxidermy Association

    what was the flat white paint? or primer? what did you use to stain it with? and why do you put you freezers on casters?
  4. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I thought I said the paint was flat white latex/acrylic interior house paint. It's stained with Minwax Dark Walnut stain.

    The freezers are on casters so that when I decide to clean the shop, I can unplug them, move them away from the wallls, vacuum, and then hose the floor down before moving them back into position. I figure I'm like most others and use the freezer tops as additional shelf and work bench space. I'm constantly "losing" things behind the freezer. Try getting back there to retrieve them when you're dealing with two 21 cu. ft. freezers.
  5. shammy

    shammy New Member

    Thanks George for the info. Now I know how to do it if I get the opportunity someday. shammy
  6. ManHunterUSMC

    ManHunterUSMC New Member

    Hey George, I haven't been on here long, but I sure have seen you on just about ever post i read through! You are a big inspiration
    to all of us beginners and I'm sure plenty of pros see as a big help too.

    I saw a few holes drilled into the tree mostly around the point where the limbs come out. Are these hose for the foam to set into? or are they just black marks with a Sharpie to mark where you need to put your limbs. Thanks, I hope I don't sound too much like a new guy.

  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    The black spots around the PVC "limbs" are actually the heads of drywall screws holding the PVC in the position I wanted them. As there were no "joints" that would allow for slanted limbs, I drilled oversized holes in the main "limb", inserted the smaller OD PVC into the hole, moved it to a position I liked and then held it with screws. Afterwards, I primed the gaps (purple rings) and filled them with joint cement. The only holes in the limbs ended up being the ones were the anchor bolts secured the leopard to the limb.

    Just to follow on, the leopard is not "bolted" to the limb. I made the holes close tolerant and a bit farther apart than necessary. Since the limb had to be mounted to the roof about 15 feet in the air, that was precarious enough for me. After installing the limb, I balanced the mounted leopard and set it in the predrilled holes. The extra space between the holes allowed the mount to be "spring loaded" and it locked itself in snugly. Setting nearly 18 feet off the floor, I didn't figure anyone would be messing with it to dislodge it easily.

    Here is what the final piece looked like in the clients game room with him and his wife looking out over the gameroom.

  8. ManHunterUSMC

    ManHunterUSMC New Member

    That's Amazing! I can't wait to make this a full time adventure once I get out of the Marine Corps!
  9. Yes its been 6 years but this is the only place I could find info.
    George I need to make a custom branch for a full mount bear 126lber.
    I came across this thread a month ago when there was only a few pics left . Now they are all gone.
    So you used plumbing pipes to get the shape then foam on a bag and flip onto the pipe.
    How do you shape the foam to look like bark.
    I have done a few other foam displays but they are so fragile and the pain seems to eat the foam .
    Hopefully you can help me out again like in the past.
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I shape the foam under the plastic, obviously. When it cures, I cut the "bark" by using a teardrop shaped, coarse Riffler file. I use a Stout Ruffer on the rest of the foam so as to create a good "tooth" to hold paint on the foam. Then I use a quality "one coat" flat acrylic paint. The first coat I let dry completely before adding a second and final coat. I add about a half can of unscented talcum powder to a half gallon of paint. This serves as a great crack and seam killer as well as making a super stain absorbent surface when you color your bark. This mix will never shine as you've created a super flat white paint.
  11. Thanks George..

    So you apply the foam and take off the plastic right away or leave til it sets? Any chance after all this time there is still a pic of the log handy?
  12. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    As long as you don't fold the plastic under foam, it will peel right off. I'll have to get to my PC and look for the pictures. I'm sure they're on there someplace.