I had posted this some time back as a novelty under "do you know what this is". Many times in one-man shops, caping out a large deer can be a bothersome task if an antler is broken or assymetrical. It's even tougher to hold the head and saw the antlers off. To assist me, I built the following fixture. I used a 12 inch round plaque, 4 pieces of 1/2 firring strips and a 4 foot piece of 3/4 inch dowel rod. I used drywall screws to secure them to the plaque. First I cut 4 pieces of firring strips (strips are precisely 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch) in 8 3/4 inch lengths. I cut them at a 5 degree angle on a miter box. On one end, I took a rattail file and rasped a concave groove in one end of each strip. I centered all four on the bottom of the panel so that they formed a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch square at the bottom. I marked them and predrilled holes in the panel and connected them with drywall screws. Then I cut 4 dowels so that the INSIDE measurement would be 5 3/4 inchs. These were cut with 45 degree miter cuts on the end and screwed them into a square. I set them atop the firring strips and drilled hole in the center of each dowel so that the firring strips would support the sides of the "square" it formed. Then I cut 4 pieces that were 2 1/2 inches on the OUTSIDE of the dowel cut at 45 degrees. I used the rattail file to groove both ends so they'd "round out the corners" and fit over the dowels in the "square". I cut and sanded the outside corners of the square because a rounded dowel cut at a 45 will gnaw you up pretty good if you don't. That left me with an octagonal fixture to hold the head and allowed the muzzle to fit down inside the cone it created. It fits the face and gravity locks it down so that you don't risk rubbing hair off. Too loose - the head wobbles. A cylindrical fixture will simply make contact in a narrow ring around the face and risk cutting hair. This allows me to fold the hide back and remove excess neck meat and cut off the neck at the Atlas. It also holds the head so that I can take my bone saw and cut the skullcap precisely like I want it. I just have to take care in not cutting too far down and into the dowels. On smaller deer, I simply set a wad of paper down at the cone tip to raise the head up where I can work on it. I may have $10 in the fixture, but most of that is in the round panel. You COULD use something else, obviously, but it has to be wide enough to keep it from tipping over. I simply can't skin out a deer head anymore without it.