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Tine Repair - My quick painting method

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by Cole, Dec 23, 2011.

  1. Cole

    Cole Amateur Taxidermist

    I use Fix-It by Aves for making my tines. I do this over 10ga. - 12ga. wire with hot glue on it. (the glue gives the epoxy an irregular surface to grab)

    I color my tines with oils, using burnt sienna, burnt umber, yellow ochre, black, and white (not pictured)

    I start by spraying a light coat of burnt umber Polyranspar lacquer paint.

    I steel wooled it just a touch to lighten it. If you don't get it too dark this isn't necessary.

    A mixture of yellow ochre, burnt sienna was painted on by brush in a thin wash. I use lacquer thinner to thin the oils way down. Mineral spirits doesn't dry quickly enough for me. The secret is go thin. This isn't the final color, you can always add more later. Dry brushing on a tiny bit of white is sometimes helpful after this step.

    With a small brush stipple on some un-thinned burnt umber. No need to be accurate.

    Using a large, clean dry brush go over your stippling and blend to your liking. Don't blend it too much, because you are going to do this again later.

    Being a little more precise with your markings, do it again with burnt umber, as well as some black stippling. Using VERY little paint is the key.

    Dry brush it again. I only did this twice, but the more you do it the darker the tine will get.

    Seal it with Krylon Matte finish and you're done.

    Another angle.

    Always check your customer comments first. I just noticed this was to be a split G-2...CRAP. I'll be adding the split now. Oh well, this is it before I start drilling again. LOL
    drob and Micah Howards like this.
  2. WildNatureLuver

    WildNatureLuver New Member

    Great Job ! You are a true artist, that blends in perfect !

  3. Matt

    Matt Active Member

    Looks great Cole, now get back to work and finish the split!(LOL) Don't feel bad, I have done the very same thing!
  4. Marking

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  5. marking
  6. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

    Nice Job Cole.
  7. DeeCee

    DeeCee New Member

    Good job Cole. That sounds like something I would do! Lol
  8. ElkinsTaxidermy

    ElkinsTaxidermy www.ronelkinstaxidermy.com

    It is an unwritten rule in taxidermy tutorials/seminars, that you must NOT have clean hands, and trimmed fingernails. Didn't you get the memo? I suppose you are wearing clean clothes, too?
  9. kbauman

    kbauman Active Member

    Very nice Cole.
  10. irishme

    irishme New Member

    Nice Work

    Oil paints are the medium to use, if you work at it there are no limits with oils, on color and detail you cannot accomplish
  11. kyddm

    kyddm New Member

    Cole, I have always wanted a droptine buck. It may not be so hard to get one now. LOL!
  12. paul e

    paul e New Member

    very nice Cole!
    i love the oil paints also
  13. little fred

    little fred R.I.P all my fallen taxidermy brother's

    AWWWWWWWSOME you don't get any better then that.....

  14. the paint is a very good match but was that tine really that long or fat?
    the reason i ask is it looks skinny at the base.
  15. josh s.

    josh s. Active Member

    Re: Re: Re: Tine Repair - My quick painting method

    it looks like a normal bladed tine to me

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  16. Cole

    Cole Amateur Taxidermist

    Yep, the customer asked for a bladed tine. Did I over-do it? Maybe.
  17. josh s.

    josh s. Active Member

    Re: Re: Tine Repair - My quick painting method

    I mounted a nice 180 class and that buck had split/bladed g2s....almost 3" at the widest part of the blade....all the other tines were normal...if the customer is happy, them I don't think you over did it. I like it personally

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  18. intohunting

    intohunting Member

    What is the name brand/company name of the oil paints that you like to use?
  19. Cole

    Cole Amateur Taxidermist

    Most of mine are Georgian. I'm not picky for this application, most any oils will work and Georgians are cheap.