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tucking lips

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by poloski, Jan 2, 2012.

  1. poloski

    poloski New Member

    31
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    do you tuck the top and bottom lips or just the top? I had a buddy that has been doing taxidermy and he said to use a jig saw blade to cut the slot because a dremel is too big...well I did that and wasnt enough room to tuck and so I pinned the lip and it left a huge gap when it dried..
     
  2. Dawg3458

    Dawg3458 Member

    I tuck the top. then tuck the bottom. i use a dremel too.
     

  3. X2 on the Dremel
     
  4. I also use a dremel to cut the lip slot. I hate fighting the lips trying to get them in some little thin cut slot.
     
  5. fright unlimited has a flex shaft that cost next to nothing . you can use it for a bunch of things and the shaft is light and flexable . on to the story i use a 1/8 in drill bit to cut the lip slot in an upward almost strait into the form about 1 1/2 in , the eyes and the nose useing my flexshaft of coarse , then i cut a hole at the back side of the lips about 1/4 in round , then i put critter clay into the lip slot just a small amount then i use a dull rounded off butter knife and i tuck the top frount first then you go to the back corner and tuck all the big corner stuff into the hole you made the start in the mid of the upper lips and tuck in both directions untill the lip is where its suposed to be .. then start in the lower in the frount move the the area where the black from the upper lip meets the form and start there then tuck the rest done , explaition on the critter clay 1 i never use pins on lips 2 i have never had to fight with them to stay in place and 3 it has worked well for me on every critter over the past 10 years why change now and 4 it gets tighter as you tuck and not anyone will ever know you did it that way ever , just my way of doing it good luck mark c
     
  6. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    The Dremel slot IS too big. (Sorry guys). If you hide is thinned properly, when the hide dries you're going to see that slot. I use a sanded down jigsaw blade. I cut my slot and I take my tucking tool and run it through the slot before I ever begin. This creates the "clamshell" necessary to hold the hide when tucked. When you insure the slot has hidepaste, gently pressing the skin in with a rocking motion will surprise you at how easily it installs. I never use or need to use pins to hold the lips in.
     
  7. George i used that way for a while but it can slip if your doing to much to fast i hate whole sale but it beats the hell out of retail nuts . but your method is correct mark c
     
  8. redwolf

    redwolf Active Member

    The way I look at it is if you are sliding the lip skin into the slot it can slide back out. If you have to push the lip skin in, it will hold the skin in place. I want the foam to pinch and hold the skin in place. I wont use a drill, or a dremel with a bit.
    I make the lip slot with the same tool I use to tuck the skin. That way I know the skin will be held in place.
     
  9. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Obviously different strokes for different folks. I sand the sabersaw blade simply because I don't want the sawset removing any material. Opening a slot with the tucking tool compresses the foam that you're going to want to secure your hide. A knife will work just as easily as my saw blade as it's separating as wel as opening. I only run my tucking tool around the slot to spread it a bit, knowing that since it hasn't been compressed, it will spring back. I'm also very careful to tuck LIP SKIN only. If you push on that hairline, it IS possible to experience slippage. Neither do I recommend using a "butter knife" to tuck with. The lip skin, properly thinned can be quite fragile if forced and a butter knife will slice through it like a razor if it doesn't do in quickly enough. SOMEPLACE there's a tutorial or two about making your own tucking tools and lip line separators.
     
  10. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    6,215
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    I use a butter knife to cut slot, saw blade or drill bit too big for me. and a tucker to tuck both lips, have no problem with lips pulling. As stated the foam holds lips tight. There is almost always different ways to get the job done. 3bears
     
  11. Whitetailart

    Whitetailart New Member

    2,331
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    There are a lot of ways to do the lip slot and a Dremel is not the best to use.
    I have made the perfect tool for cutting the lip slots. Just big enough for the skin to be inserted and held in place by the foam.
     
  12. x2 on Goerges' lip tuckin
     
  13. bigbucktn

    bigbucktn New Member

    is there a way to mark these subject for future reference, so they don't have to be looked up again
     
  14. On the top of the original post you can click send topic and send it to your email.
     
  15. A flat blade screw driver with the edges sanded into a curve works great for tucking lips
     
  16. papagoose

    papagoose papagoose and goslings

    believe it or not i use a jigsaw blade taped securely to a wood dowel and cut the lip then I tuck it in just like what was stated above that is how i learned for my mentor and it works well it does take a little work to get it in but i rarely use any pins to keep it in place it works very well just like mark c said
     
  17. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    i my self use a scalpel blade first to cut my slot. then i run my tucking tool over the slot to open it up a little and gives me that bite that George talked about. also no pinning.
     
  18. a7d1

    a7d1 New Member

    I use both the saw blade to open slot and tucking tool to actually tuck. The key I find is the hide paste. I work as much as I can into slot before tucking and then when tucking the paste allows for an easy tuck of both lips. Wipe off the excess paste as it oozes out of groove before it dries on furred area if it gets on it. I never have to pin the lips this way and adjustments are made while it dries relatively easily. I was taught to use two saw blades taped together but have since gone to one. Two blades I found to leave the groove too wide and therefore shrinkage and unwanted movement of the skin occurred during the drying process.
     
  19. i have been using an 1/8 inch bit and dremmel think thats what ric uses on a-z but my few mounts the lips are pulling out as it drys. i am gonna try alot smaller slot next time
     
  20. dablaw

    dablaw Member

    Dont laugh but after seeing the store bought tucking tools I decided to make some of my own...I took some old commercial soup spoons( the cheap, thin, cafe type) and flattened them with a hammer nice and smooth..Then traced out the curved tucking part allowing one edge of the spoon to be the back edge of the tucker...Cut it out with tin snips, ground it smooth and sanded until everything was rounded and very smooth..The meatl for the spoons is very thing and it works perfectly....ok you can laugh now....