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help,,alum tan OR synthetic tan ????

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by bower0005, Apr 18, 2007.

  1. bower0005

    bower0005 Member

    hi there folks,
    like to know what would work best on a bobcat that i have,getting ready to send out to tannery,first cat,is alum tan better or synthetic,thats the tanning the chosen tannery offers,any pros or cons,or all the same,please advise,its a l/s mount,any and all help will be welcomed and appreciated,thank you all for past help.
  2. Larry B

    Larry B New Member

    Name brand synthetic.

  3. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Find you another tannery. Alum tans are crap with a capital "C" and if those two are his "preferred" methods, he's not likely to do much better with the shaving of your hide either.
  4. bower0005

    bower0005 Member

    hi there george,thank you for the response,like i said i am new in this game,what kind of tan would you recommend,or who should i ask,i am in southern California,THANX AGAIN FOR THE HINT.
  5. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I'm one of the hard nuts some tanneries don't like around. I like any tan that isn't alum. I still subscribe to the notion a well know tanning supplier holds that as alum ages, the molecular and atomic structures break down turning the alum and ambient humidity into sulfuric acid which ultimately "eats" your hide. JUST MY OPINION.
  6. Glen Conley

    Glen Conley KARMA GOOSE R.I.P. 2006-2006

    But, Uncle George, if you remember back to about a year or so ago the piece of deer skin trim scrap was done in such a manner that sulphuric acid was produced. If you still have the piece, I imagine you could wet it down with water, and it would show as acidic if tested.

    How's come it did not turn to oatmeal? Huh, huh, huh?

    Don't ya just hate it when I give a Pop Quiz?

    All the answers are in the Archieves, and I'm not the only one to put them there.
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    CAUSE YOU STOP ROTTED IT FIRST!!! How about that for an answer Glen? LMAO
  8. oldshaver

    oldshaver Guest

    I read it, but I aint gettin in it.
  9. Aluminium sulfate may be made by dissolving aluminium hydroxide, Al(OH)3, in sulfuric acid, H2SO4:

    2Al(OH)3 + 3H2SO4 + 10H2O → Al2(SO4)3·16H

    Can the sulphate bonds break away from the aluminum molecules? If so, what breaks them? Where do they eventually end up?
  10. cyclone

    cyclone Posts: 400001

    Function: noun
    Text: unintelligible or meaningless talk <was so excited he could only talk gibberish>
    Synonyms babble, blabber, bunk, claptrap, drivel, fudge, gabble, gobbledygook (also gobbledegook), hogwash, jabber, jabberwocky, jazz, moonshine, mumbo jumbo, nonsense, piffle, prattle, rigmarole, rot
    Related Words abracadabra; chatter, clatter, gab, gibber, prate, tattle, twaddle; double-talk, hocus-pocus, jive; gas, hot air, wind.....
  11. Ack! That post reminded me WAY too much of Chemistry class! Thanks...now the nightmares are going to come back. Geesh, and just when I thought messing with dead animals was a relaxing thing! :)

  12. Paul K

    Paul K New Member

    OK, Here's the next question ? What is the difference then , between Lutan , which is an alum tan and other tans ??
    Many here bash Alum's yet subscribe to the idea Lutan is great. There is a difference. Some tanneries are claiming to use a modified alum which I suspect is a Lutan type. However I dont know that for a fact.
  13. All alum is definitely not the same. The best guys to address the differences are not talking due to proprietary reasons.

    There are two main differences in tanning...processes used and products used...I think that covers everything.

    Mechanics and chemistry. Not rocket science, but some try to make it that way.
  14. Paul K

    Paul K New Member

    Ok since no one is talking except you David , Are you saying Its the mechanics that remove the sulfates from ceratain alum tans or the chemistry?
  15. It is the chemistry. The make-up of the original alum that you start with is the key to the final product. If you start with commercial or industrial grade (the cheap stuff), then you get the problems that these seaoned veterans like George have seen over and over through the years.

    Some of the tans that are being "marketed" as synthetic are actually alum based tans. Just a more expensive grade of alum that gives better results in the long run. Truly a case of "you get what you pay for".

    The mechanics are the physical processes that are used to help the chemistry give a softer dry tan. (Not breaking chemical bonds, breaking hides)