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I dp but want to try tanning

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by deerstuffer, Apr 24, 2012.

  1. deerstuffer

    deerstuffer New Member

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    I know this is a hot topic, but I want some answers to some questions. I have mounted many deer over the years using dp and I know about and have had some of the issues that the anti-dp guys rant about. While I know and good business can be built and maintained using dp, I would still like to try tanning but I have some questions. 1) What kind of tan can I use and not have a lot of shrinkage. I have been to one shop where the guy did his own tanning but all of the necks where way smaller than they would have been had I mounted them. I am not willing to give up all that form size but I have to believe that there is a way to tan without doing so. 2) How much hide prep is involved before sending them off to a tannery? I know they have to be salted and dried but how much fleshing, shaving, turning etc, has to be done prior to salting? I am sure to have more questions, but that should get me started in this learning process. Thanks for your input in advance.
     
  2. you can try about any tan and make it work the reason you get shrinkage is because the hide is not shaved or thinned enough. i personally use krowtann it works great for me and ive never had any slippage or shrinkage issues. if i go through all the "trouble" gettin the cape turned and fleshed then its ready to krowtan saves me lots of money with shipping and the cost of tannin. Good luck
     

  3. bearrug48

    bearrug48 New Member

    X 2 on the thinning,shaving on the above post.
     
  4. deerstuffer,,,,, If you spend any time at all on this web site,,you can see hundreds of deer and other specimens that have been mounted by many great taxidermists from all walks of experience. Most,,I'm sure were either commercially,,or home tanned. Very seldom do you see a small neck on any of them due to shrinkage from tanning. Any modern tanning process will get you a cape at least as big as it was when you took it off the deer or whatever you are working on. If the shop you were in was putting out small necks,,, I suspect there were other reasons for this,,,, not the tanning process! You can do a search here and find lots of ways to tan. Try one or two and see what works for you or use any reputable tannery. As for the prep..... You will need to do all the same work that you do for your DP method,,, then salt for at least 12-24 hours.
     
  5. I've tanned with Lu-tan F, EZ 100, krow-tann, Liqua-tan, Curatan, and Tan'um. They are all workable and produced about the same quality of mountable hide. Even though some products I listed are considered preserving rather than tanning, I couldn't tell the difference in the finished product. The key is prep work from skinning to fleshing to salting and pickling etc.
     
  6. Mr.T

    Mr.T New Member

    So you visit one shop, and determined that everyone that tans gets smaller necks than you do? Raw dp skin stretches bigger than the meat that you skinned it off, it wasn't your doing that makes it go on bigger necks.
     
  7. deerstuffer

    deerstuffer New Member

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    Thanks for the advice.
     
  8. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Look, no blowing roses up your ass. Since you've used DP for so long, why not just take a small step before going in balls to the walls? Try one of the paint on "tans" first. I've used John Rineharts for over 20 years. They've screwed with the formula enough, however, that I've just about had enough of that. There's a brand new product out there that is as good as the OLD JRTS ever was and I honestly believe the penetration is even better. It's from Headquarters Supply and it's called "PT" for "Preservant Tan". It's not a full tan as it requires no pickling and no pH testing. You flesh your hide as you would for DP and you salt it down overnight. Next day you shake off the salt and paint on the PT for a minimum of 6 hours. Then either wash it and mount or freeze. (I prefer freezing and then washing the the residual creme off with warm water right before I mount it.)

    When you wash your hide, spin it dry, towel it dry and then finish shave the hide. It shaves incredibly well after the tan is washed off. That's it. No bells and whistles, no pH strips and neutralizing, just paint it on and wash it off. Hides have exceptional stretch and they "smell" like leather (which it is).
     
  9. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Active Member

    If you are going to ship them off, you will need to flesh them before salting, but not shave them. As far as tans, I've tried many. Krowtann will be the easiest. Trubond is the most impressive and gives me the most stretch by far. You would still have to shave. If you don't want to learn to shave and buy a fleshing wheel, send them out. Just my opinion.
     
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I'm still waiting for somone to explain to me just how the hell taking 4 days and having to use baking soda and Liquid Tide is "easier" than salting overnight, painting a tan on, and then washing it off and mounting -ALL WITHIN TWO DAYS.
     
  11. HAPP

    HAPP Active Member

    Easy and fast?
    Pressure tanning steps:
    1. Skin, split and flesh
    2. Put it in the tanner about an hour
    3. Shave
    4. Back in the tanner for another hour
    5. Rinse/spin
    6. Mount
    Total control. Can't be faster!
    JMO
     
  12. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Active Member

    Note, I said easiest, not best. The reason I believe it's easier is because the person doesn't have to worry about checking ph levels, and if they aren't the best flesher, they can always put it in the solution after getting all the big stuff off and do a more detailed fleshing after a few days. I've used many products. I've read a lot of beginner posts on here. Of the people on here who post with a problem with slippage, the overwhelming majority do not use krowtann. I've also read a huge amount of posts on here where someone stuck a questionable hide in krowtann and it was saved. I currently use trubond, but the fact that far fewer people experience problems to me means that it's easier to use without experiencing problems.
     
  13. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    And just how does that make it EASIER than a paint on where you only deal with salt and the paint-on???? And most of the people who experience slipping problems fail to recognize that the slipping started with field prep and the fact that they put a hide through multiple thaw/freeze cycles. Even the BEST of commercial tans can still get slippage and if you're talking about bobcat or fox ears, you can pretty well bet on it.
     
  14. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Active Member

    I was comparing KT to most tans, which require pickling. I have no experience with tans that don't require pickling.
     
  15. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Well, all that tells me is that you haven't done much tanning. KT is successful because it's simply a GOOD pickle IMO is one where the pH is between 1.0 and 1.5. That's stronger than the formic acid in KT could ever achieve and it will lock hair down tighter than Dick's hatband. If you want a pickle that carries that to extreme, try sulfuric acid.
     
  16. 24/7

    24/7 New Member

    I started out DP'ing and wanted to take a step tward tanning without taking a balls to the wall plunge like George said. I used Sure cure from James taxi supply this year and was very pleased with it.very easy. Flesh,turn eyes ears lips, salt for abt 3 hrs, wash towel dry,thin. Mount. Color is great, lots of stretch. Not saying its as good as tanning but if u r pushed for time and space like I am It Works For Me!check it out
     
  17. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Active Member

    George, I know all that. Are you seriously saying anyone who hasn't used a tan without a pickle hasn't done much tanning? Wow. Maybe you didn't really mean, but that's exactly what you said.
     
  18. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    NO, that's not what I'm saying. Here's what you wrote:

    "I was comparing KT to most tans, which require pickling. I have no experience with tans that don't require pickling."

    Now which part of that is correct. You're recommending KT or you're recommending a tan requiring a pickle???? Now if you're recommending KT, it IS a pickle. If you're recommending a TAN, you have to go someplace else. Bot JRTS and PT are simply TANS without the pickle step. I like the way PT is titled and explained on the label. It says that it's a "Preservant Tan" which is exactly what JRTS is as well. Our industry standard says that in order to TAN, one needs to salt, pickle, neutralize, tan, and oil. We tend to bastardize the word "tan" and from a beginner's aspect, that's a disservice. SOMEONE needs to explain the differences occasionally so that these "beginners" don't presume there's some magic elixir our there that will eliminate slipping, give you great stretch, tan, and oil just by dropping a raw hide in a bucket.
     
  19. josh s.

    josh s. Active Member

    Re: Re: Re: I dp but want to try tanning

    so you are mounting a thinned, salted cape???

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  20. sportsmen wildlife

    sportsmen wildlife New Member

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    I use a formic and alum based pickle. A hide pulled from that pickle and neutralized looked and felt exactly like the one and only time I have used k-tann on a hide. Actually the hide out of the pickle looks nice and white and stretches well, but I would never mount with a pickled hide. To each his own though...