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Tips for keeping eye skin/ tear ducts tight?

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by SWIFFY, May 18, 2012.

  1. SWIFFY

    SWIFFY Member

    No matter what I try, my tear ducts and eyes look good wet, I stay on them the first couple days of drying, but it never fails that the eye skin pulls away 1/8 inch or so and the tear ducts open up a little once it fully dries....?

    Ive tried critter clay, crayola clay, potters clay, and this last time I even put majic smooth on my eyes and tear ducts to hold them better.... summer, winter, fan, no fan.... I always have a little gap!

    Do some of you guys have some tricks for minimizing the movement from drying or is that just "the way it is"? ???

    Thanks,

    SWIFFY
     
  2. Rick Carter

    Rick Carter Administrator

    Be sure the skin is thinned all the way down to the eyelash follicles. Allow the clay to dry some before mounting. Put a paper towel through the eye hole oull and let the skin get nearly too dry to work. Stretch the eye circumference a little with your fingertips before tucking but be careful not to rip the skin. paint on a little liqua tan from the outside early on the 3rd day.
     

  3. On your ducts. use a small roll of clay along the front edge and over to the skin slot. After tucking with your finger you can work the skin and clay over skin to skin. As it dries, and this is more like 4-5 days, continue to adjust to keep hair to hair.
     
  4. SWIFFY

    SWIFFY Member

    Thanks a bunch guys! Whats the purpose of the Liqua-Tan on the third day? Does that just help firm it up? Appreciate everything!
     
  5. Rick knows his stuff no dought one question did you nuterlize the cape after the pickle long enough . If not that will cause you head problems. I use a long nail I put it in the front corner of the eye and barry it out of sight , I also do not cut the extra skin around the eye shorter I just tuck deeper. Also you have different temps in you shop direct heat or ac or a fan will cause some of the problems. Mark c
     

  6. The liqua-tan will keep the area oiled, less shrinking.
     
  7. Thin and glue along with drier clay and keep an eye on it. You cant just go off and expect it to stay.
     
  8. razorbacker

    razorbacker New Member

    20
    0
    What these guys said for sure. THIN, THIN, THIN, did i mention thin. If you have never actually saw a properly thined cape, its hard to tell you what it should look like. When i first started out, i thought fleshed was about the same as shaved.....WRONG! Allot of people will tell guys starting out to learn to flesh and tan first, then you can send stuff to a tannery. I disagree, i think if every beginner would send their first deer hide to a GOOD tannery, they could then understand and see how a deer is properly thinned.

    Not trying to get on a soap box here, just know that when i finally had a ACOMPLISHED taxidermist show me how to shave and what it should look like when properly shaved, tanned, and ready to mount it helped a bunch.

    Get it thin and dont just tuck it and forget it. Good luck!!!