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Mounting A Largemouth Bass. With pictures and lots of them!

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by K.N Fish Taxidermy, Jun 3, 2012.

  1. K.N Fish Taxidermy

    K.N Fish Taxidermy Kenneth Newton Phone#804-867-7736

    Yep I do know what you mean Jimmy. Makes a world of difference. Thanks alot for the advice. I am putting an order in for some Apoxy Sculpt and eyes tonight. Still Life lenses! I will post step by step photos on how I paint them. I hope I don't make anyone upset by doing this tutorial. If I am please let me know I am just wanting to help out some people with what I have obtained here from you guys. You ALL have helped me out for sooooo long and this is kind of my way of giving back I guess. I also just like to write and type up stuff like this. I think its fun. Love doing it. If I am doing to much just let me know. Also I hope when I am finished I will be "considered" a fishhead ;D Now the wait begins for the Big Brown Truck LoL!

    Ken
     
  2. Thanks for the post. I love to see different techniques .
     

  3. Matt

    Matt Active Member

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    Very nice Ken, thanks for taking the time to do this. I love seeing all the different ways to skin and prep fish. Looking forward to seeing you add some color.
     
  4. Looking forward to seeing your coloring techniques! Love how Cole does his and just got Rick Carter's skin mount Largemouth in mail today. Hoping to pick up something from everyone. Ordered a detail airbrush yesterday - badger jet. Have been frustrated with my detail work using Paasche H. Will still use it for general coverage.
    Thanks for doing this.
    Shawn.
     
  5. K.N Fish Taxidermy

    K.N Fish Taxidermy Kenneth Newton Phone#804-867-7736

    Shawn that is an awesome airbrush you got there. If its anything like the velocity you will be very impressed. Hope it work out great for you. Thanks Matt. I can't wait to start painting it! Your welcome guys! Like I said before I love doing this type of stuff. I usually write up step-by-step tech stuff on the truck forum that I am a part of. So I thought maybe I could do something like that here.

    Ken
     
  6. gorbee0127

    gorbee0127 New Member

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    Hi,How do find that acrylic caulk apposed to hide paste or latex based products,has it not got a shorter working time than others? here in uk we find it near on impossible to find dap at a reasonable price around $16.00 a tube.Super blog by the way. ;D
     
  7. J-Jay

    J-Jay New Member

    Almost right down the line how I do a LMB. Just the way I was taught. I really appreciate the thread and all of the feedback. I am especially grateful for the detailed parts about removing the bones in the head. I have had my fair share of issues getting them out so any more tricks are wonderful. Also interesting about not cutting the collar bone from George. I cant imagine how much less room I would have clearing out the head area. Detail George, anything to help head placement is golden as well.
     
  8. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I simply cut my outline around the gills BEHIND the collarbone instead of in front of it. Once I make that half circle, that's where the curved blade shears prove invaluable. The snubbed nose tips are inserted, points down, and clip the connective tissue away so that I can lift the bone slightly. With my finger under the opercule, I push the blade up to the spine where the collar bone connects and I cut it free. When that happens, the skin lifts up allowing the shears to push forward and clip the spine in two. Once this is done, the cleaning process is the same. I still see the curved blade shears as the only method for getting up inside the head and down in that throat latch area. Though I use the cheeker tools, the inner eye orbit gets clipped by the shear when I'm cleaning and the cheek meat could be removed without it. They also are invaluble in snipping the caudal fin off . The snubbed noses lift the skin without cutting it and the shears nip off the fin rays very close to the skin. For the other fins, the same is true. With the curved blades pointing away from the skin, you can get under that subcutaneous fat around the fin bases ans snip them off withot the tips punching holes in the skin. If I had to use only ONE tool in skinning a fish, it would be those curved bladed shears. The next tool would be a pair of 45degree bandage scissors. The blunt point of the scissors is pushed under the skin behind the collar bone and slid rearward as I open the "off side" of the fish. Scalpels pull scales and since I use my shears for the tougher stuff, the bandage scissors are ideal. I don't know if I'd brag about skinning a fish in 10 minutes or not, but with a largemouth bass, it's certainly not out of reach using the method I use.
     
  9. J-Jay

    J-Jay New Member

    Well outlined George. I am sold on the sheers. I am going to give this a try on my next skin mount. Again, the sheers seem almost too good to be true. You likely said it before, but is there a place to purchase a set like them at a local lowes/home depot type of place?
     
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Commercially, they're marked as "grape shears" or "orchard shears". I've found them in Ace Hardware on occasion, but Research Mannikins carries them as "Shears, Fish Skinning Industrial Quality", Item #S-173. They list for $25.95
     
  11. IDForkHorn

    IDForkHorn Common sense just isn't that common anymore

    Very Nice Pictures! Tyler
     
  12. linder

    linder New Member

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    I have not read through the hole post but I wanted to say ''Thank You'' for showing this ,fish are the hardest for me to mount ,the trouble starts when I get to the skinning of the show side and then when I get up into the head area. I get it done but not without some problems and a few choice words I have purchased a number of videos and read every thing printed on the subject but...anyway thanks again.
     
  13. K.N Fish Taxidermy

    K.N Fish Taxidermy Kenneth Newton Phone#804-867-7736

    I like the acrylic caulk alot. It works for me. I seen some other people use it to. Never had any issue with it so far. George!! WOW! That is awesome! I am totally going to try this out! Thanks for telling us about that!

    Ken
     
  14. Jason S

    Jason S New Member

    Nice job Ken. :)
     
  15. Cole

    Cole Amateur Taxidermist

    If you look around you may find them cheaper. http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/1490-pruning-shears/23759.html
     
  16. K.N Fish Taxidermy

    K.N Fish Taxidermy Kenneth Newton Phone#804-867-7736

    Cole thanks for posting that. I have an ACE literally a couple of minutes away from where I am. Good price too!

    Ken
     
  17. K.N Fish Taxidermy

    K.N Fish Taxidermy Kenneth Newton Phone#804-867-7736

    Well on day 8 of it drying.
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    Here is the fan running.
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  18. Re: Re: Mounting A Largemouth Bass. With pictures and lots of them!

    Doing the same thing right now. Turned on the dehumidifier in my little shop as well - noticed humidity was up to 60% after I mounted a bunch of fish this week. As long as they're dry by time my new airbrush arrives on Tuesday.
    Looking forward to seeing finish work.
    Shawn.
    Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine
     
  19. K.N Fish Taxidermy

    K.N Fish Taxidermy Kenneth Newton Phone#804-867-7736

    Painting the EYES! I use the Jeff Lumsden's Still Life Lenses. Everyone has there own way of doing them and their are countless ways to paint these . That is why they are so nice to work with. I wan't to thank Mr. Jeff Lumsden for making these. These are the 16mm. eyes. Now the base of the capsule is 21.6mm X 20.0mm and the Iris is 15-16mm. So when choosing the right size take all these different measurements into consideration. I like to use pearl-ex powders a lot when painting these eyes. They just add the extra pop when they hit light at certain angles. The grain like texture also adds depth. I like to have a lot of different types of paint with me while I am doing this. I like too grab a little of this and some of that. You get the idea. Whatever you think you need to apply or add. This is whats so awesome about these. Everyone has there own way of doing things so it really makes that eye custom to you. You can also add various coloration's depending on spawning colors ect. Now if you can't seem to get the eye pupil to look just right Jeff has just came out with the pre-painted pupil version. I have not tried these out yet but I am sure they are awesome too. This is another really cool thing about these. You can completely customize the pupil shape. Whether for cold or warm water fish to saltwater and exotic species. The sky is the end with these eyes! I can go on all day praising these so I will shut up now. Lets get down to business. I use the Sharpie Poster Paint pen with the extra fine pointed tip. This pen gives a crisp and neat, clean edge to the pupil. There are also Lens Caddies that they sell which are made out of rubber. They also have a cross hair in them which will help in this step with painting the pupil. I only have one of the caddies and that is for the 12mm. size eye so it wouldn't work with these. They are real nice to use because they give you something to hold on to while you are painting.
    Here is how they look unpainted.
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    Here are the pupils painted.
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    I seal in each color with some Krylon clear matte. Any sealer will work but I prefer to use flat or matte so it gives it some tooth.
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    I then paint the gold ring around the eye with a very fine tip brush. The colors do vary some so use your reference photos. I like to use Emperor's Gold made by Dazzling Metalics. I bought this at Walmart. You can actually get all these acrylic pants and Walmart for very cheap.
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    The gold ring painted.
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    I then take some black acrylic paint and mix it with some carbon black pearl-ex powder.
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    I dip the tip of the brush in the paint mixture and then dry it slightly so it won't be that strong when I apply it. I then make a ring around where the iris starts. I use a dabbing motion when doing this. After that I take a really soft, blunt brush and moisten it. Then lightly stroke over the ring until it starts to soften up some. You don't want it to be too harsh. I then take some plain carbon black pearl-ex powder and start to make some dark patches in the central area of the iris.
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    Next I take some Aztec Gold pearl-ex powder and brush it all over the iris area. I then take my finger and start to rub some of it off in certain areas. You could also use a q-tip. This will let the next layer show through and add some character to the eye.
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    Now for the darker brown. I mixed some Glorious Gold, Burnt Umber, a little Aztec Gold Pearl-ex, and Black to make the color I want. This is where you will have to get creative. Just add a little of this and a little of that until you achieve the color and shade you are after.
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    I applied it all over the inside of the eye. Now some spots I wanted to make a little darker so I took Some black and applied it in certain areas. I forced it through in some spots so it will turn darker in those areas.
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    The last step of coarse is to clean up your mess and as you can see I made a big one LoL!
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    I hope this will help you with starting out in painting your own eyes. Mr. Rick Krane and Joshua Knuth have some great youtube videos on painting these eyes. I hope you will go and check them out. You can find them all at taxidermy.com WASCO. They are on the Still Life Eye Lenses page. Now one last thing is that I you mess up on them you can easily wipe them clean and start over. I hope you will give these eyes a try and see for yourself how nice they are to work with.

    Ken
     
  20. rp

    rp Member

    Hi Kenneth nice job on the eyes, I also use those paints they work great.