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'How To Tan' Want to make sure I got it right!

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by HinaUchi, Jun 16, 2012.

  1. So I will be able to start tanning my own furs here soon, but I'd just like to make sure I have everything correct and that I'm not missing anything important.

    I will be mainly tanning foxes, coyotes and bobcats.
    Making this short and simple, it's 5 am so I don't feel like typing much, tired.

    I will be using;
    Rittels Safetee Acid
    Rittels EZ-Tan
    Pro Plus Oil
    Baking Soda
    PH Test strips

    So first off, when I receive my pelts, if they aren't fleshed I will flesh them, split the eyes and nose, and turn the ears and what I split.
    I then add salt, roll up or leave my pelt to do it's business for however many hours [is 3-6 good?], then unroll it or take it down, shake off any excess salt then re-apply and leave it to dry.

    Next is relaxing the pelt, however, do I scrape the salt off before putting it in its relaxing bucket? However, I will mix 2 lbs of salt into every 1gallon and leave it be for 6-10 hours. [I think 8 would be best.] After that, do I just put it in it's pickling bucket, or should I ring it out or [let it drain] before hand?

    I will mix 1/2 oz of Safetee acid and 1lb of salt to every ONE gallon of water.
    Make sure my PH stays around 1 - 2.5 , never higher.
    Leave it in the pickling solution for 48 hours.

    Coyotes, foxes and bobs usually dont need any skin shaving, but incase the skin is thick I can shave it down a little bit.

    Yotes, foxes and bobs I've read usually dont need this, but just in case.
    I can let them sit in 1/2 oz of dish soap for every 1 gallon of water, leave the skins in for 30 minutes
    Rinse them, and return them to the pickle for another 24 hours. [Though if a bob, yote or fox takes 48 hours, would this be okay after degreasing?

    When I'm ready to tan I will remove them from the pickle and let them drain for 30 minutes
    Create my neautralizing bath baking soda and submerge my skins and stir them for up to 20 minutes, then take them out and rinse them well.

    I'll create my tanning agent using 1 oz of EZ-Tan and 8 oz of salt for every ONE gallon of water, and leave my furs in there for 16-24 hours.

    Using pro plus oil
    Let my skins drain for 20 minutes, then fairly rub in some oil. I however on one thing read mix it with 1 part oil, 2 parts water. What does 1 part, and 2 parts mean? or just parts in general.
    Tightly fold it up and leave it for 4-6 hours.

    Then, to make it a dry tan I will stretch and pull at it till it's dry.

    Another question, I was thinking of using an old dryer as a ghetto tumbler, but what exactly is a tumbler used for? I heard the saw dust going in cleans and softens the leather side of the pelt, could I also use this to soften/make the skins flexible/floppy? Will this work as they dried and I can just lightly damp them with a spray bottle to stretch them till they dry? [I will not be putting the dryer on with heat, it will be on cool dry, or if I can, just tumble it around for a while]

    Hope I got this all right, if I have any typos please excuse me, I am bushed and ready to hit the hay!
    Night all1 Thanks for reading!

    If you guys have any more tips, I'd love to hear them.
  2. Mr.T

    Mr.T New Member

    You do not need to salt a second time and let dry. Salt once for 8 hours, toss it straight into cold clean water and rinse out the salt for 5 minutes, then change the water to another clean cold rinse and let set the skin set for a half hour to rehydrate, change the water again for a third and final rinse/rehydrating until skin is clean and limber/soft. Then hang to drain a half hour, then go to the pickle.

  3. Alright, thanks friend!
  4. Mike Powell

    Mike Powell Active Member

    1) salting - I would not roll it up. Rub in plenty of salt and lay it out flat on an inclined board so that the juices will drain as it dries out. Let it sit overnight, rinse off and proceed.
    2) relaxing - skip this completely as Mr T pointed out. I woud soak it in your degreaser at this point before pickling. Not just any soap, but Dawn or a similar degreasing cleanser. Some yotes and cats do need degreasing, and if you ever do a coon you may need something stronger. They are GREASY!
    3) Pickle - leave a minimum of 48 hrs. After 48 hrs press your fingernail into the hide and if the mark made by your fingernails stays, you're good. If it bounces back out leave it for another 12.
    4) Shave if needed. Not always necessary on cats and foxes. Yote, maybe.
    5) Degreasing - move to step 2 IMO
    6) Neutralize - make sure to take care with the amount of baking soda and the time. Careful not to over-neutralize.
    7) Tan - be sure and rinse when done
    8) Oil - let the hide drip dry to the touch, 30 minutes to1 hour, then add oil and began to work hide (pulling, stretching, etc.)

    A dryer with heat off with corn cob grit or sawdust shavings works well as a tumbler (much more redneck than ghetto, however). It will work the hide and make it soft. It also cleans the fur remarkably well.
  5. Mr.T

    Mr.T New Member

    Yes, it needs relaxed after salting. Relaxing, is the same as re hydrating and rinsing clean.
  6. Excellent, thank you so much <3
  7. I just used the Rittel kit on a raccoon and opossums. it worked great. If you are doing it in-home, just be careful where all of the salt goes during salting. It corrodes things! :)
  8. Everything needs Shaved if you are gonna end up with a quality product, ESPECIALLY if you are gonna dry tan it. Same with degreasing. The only thing I don't degrease are deer. Use a pro degreaser like Tannery degreaser sold by McKenzie or a similar product, Not dawn.
  9. I was going to say; I used Dawn on my opossum/coons, and this did not degrease as much as I would have liked. x2 on using a pro degreaser; I will next time.