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Casting/molding artifact arrow heads and ax heads

Discussion in 'Molding and Casting' started by AKFOWLPLAY, Sep 19, 2012.

  1. Have a small project for the local museum. Have to make replica arrow, spear and stone ax heads from the originals for them for a traveling museum thus keeping the originals under lock and key. They would like them to be the same color and weight of originals. Any info on this would be great. Not sure what type of mold would be best and for getting the correct weight not sure either. Also scared of hurting the originals in one way or another.

    Thanks

    Rich d
     
  2. Kerby Ross

    Kerby Ross KSU - Class of '83; U.S. Army - Infantry (83-92)

    Make.....

    Make silicone molds, won't hurt them at all. I would recommend GI 1100 for the mold and then IE 3030 for the cast. You would have to weigh the originals (grams) and then figure out what the casts weigh. You can also use bondo for the casts if you want something heavier and can adjust with cab-o-sil if you want lighter.

    As for color I would just paint them to match.

    :)

    Kerby...
     

  3. If you are working with sharp edges on the originals, you may want to look into making pressure molds and castings. As far as materials go, of course I will point you towards Smooth-on products, but any good silicone molding material will work. It's all what you are used to working with.

    For the castings: if you need to color match the stone color, you will want to start with a color match material, which is basically clear/translucent, that way you can use pigments to get close to a base color of the rock. Also if you need to pick up the weight, especially on the larger stones, I would look at using lead powder and add that to your plastic when you mix it. Again, pressure casting for the stones that have sharp edges. The presure will allow you to get near bubble free castings from your molds. Sharp edges tend to trap air during the casting process. Pressure casting is what I found works the best to get a good knife edge casting.
    Of course, if you have the equipment, you can roto cast the parts too. That will produce bubble free castings too.


    Good luck. Don't mess up the originals. (just to make you nervous, haha)
     
  4. Mostly Fantasy

    Mostly Fantasy New Member

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    You can mix in powdered metal to help give them weight.
     
  5. akmike

    akmike Member

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    I would send it to Doug and have him do it then just double the price that way it is right and everyone is happy ;D
     
  6. Terry Vining

    Terry Vining last photo together

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    Mi
    use a clear molding rubber so you don't tint the originals. I would use smooth-on sorta clear silicone for that project.
     
  7. Ravenson

    Ravenson New Member

    I agree with Terry on this use a clear Silicone so that you do not end up tinting the Originals. For the casting first make a cast and weight it so you can tell if you need to lighten it or make it heaver. I would bet with the originals being stone you are going to need to make the castings heaver. I have used both lead shot and Sand to make casting heaver both work you just need to make sure they are dry. As for what to use to cast them I would have to see the originals but my go to urethane is 326 by smooth on.