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Ok 2nd attempt, I'm ready to get my ____ handed to me lol !

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by fozziebear, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. fozziebear

    fozziebear Active Member

    Alright this is my 2nd attempt at this replica , I didnt spend nearly as much time as I should on each step and it shows I am sure lol . No fins on yet either......reason for that is I plan on stripping it again and repainting cuz I'm not too happy with it. I think the baring is too dark and I left out the baring in the fins too . One side is lighter than the other and I think that might be because I did the the one side before and I didnt prime it back out. Now when I strip it again how do you guys "PRIME IT OUT" ? Do you just use white paint or is there a special primer that you use ? That question will probably show you how little of a fish guy I am lmao !!! Please critque away , I'm all ears !!!!!
  2. verne

    verne Well-Known Member

    Not a fish guy ; but i really like it ;)

  3. fozziebear

    fozziebear Active Member

    Then what the heck are you doin over here lol .....Get back to the deer section dangit ! J/K Thanks bud ! I hope some fish guys look at it !
  4. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    I don't think the left side looks too bad. I had people on another thread telling me I am wrong but, the bars don't tend to go much past the lateral line on bigger walleyes, and they also go up to the head, you have them stop behind the gill. I like to call them saddle marks because the bigest one usually falls somewhere near the back of the spiny dorsal and in front of soft dorsal, like a saddle. So when I am painting them I start with that one and then put the rest in to match my references. The markings on the cheek tend to be more of a spot pattern here, but overall I like it, just some tweeking here and there and it would look pretty good. I think if you had painted the fins to match your reference you might like it better. But then if you are like me you will keep redoing it until you like it.
  5. fozziebear

    fozziebear Active Member

    Hey thanks for taking the time 3bears! I greatly appreciate it !! I'm looking forward to doing it again, how would I go about priming this after I strip it ? Is it just primer out of a can ? That was probably another dumb question lol !
  6. Jim McNamara

    Jim McNamara Well-Known Member

    I just antique over the jell coat and seal that after antiquing. I use bullseye shellack to seal. Keep the paint light.it is easy to over paint. I use a base coat and powders for the cheek and do one scale at a time. You picked a difficult specimen for your first but you'll get it. The face is the hardest along with the tail and its markings.

  7. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    The ear butts are to far back,,, and antler set is off a little.
  8. B Jones

    B Jones Memeber of - NTA,UTA,AIT.Proud Member of NZTA.

    Foz I really think it looks pretty darn good for your second attempt. You are using Rick's DVD to paint it I assume because I recognize the techniques he uses for Walleyes. I really think you answered yourself, just slow down a little.

    I am hoping to go to the Michigan Show next year, it would be great to meet you and some of the others there.
  9. rnviper3

    rnviper3 New Member

    Rick, Not bad for your second. Like Jim said put the colors on light. That is one dark fish. Notice in Jim's reference picture how the markings (both yellow and brown) are like spots. Those spots can appear as blotches, but are really a series of spots with some closer to each other and some farther away. If you were to use a little swipe with steel wool on your blotches, they would appear to be more spots. Play with it a little and you will get a feel for it. The yellowish goldish spots stay solid. If you look closely you can see its like a chain pattern, almost as if the fish swam past a chain with paint on it. I know poor wording, but I can't think of any other way to say it. I make the markings on the face by doing my brownish coloring then I use a q-tip to remove some small spots. Not round per say. Go over with steel wool to smooth out. Then paint them with a gold yellow mix you use on the rest of the fish. Smooth them out with steel wool.
    keep at it. You will be right on top in no time if you excel in fish as fast as you excelled in deer. Good luck in a few days with your deer hunt.
  10. fozziebear

    fozziebear Active Member

    Gosh thats kinda what I was thinkn too Paul lol !!! Thanks guys for all the help , I didnt see the other post just few posts down about that guys first walleye replica , I could pretty much use all that info that was given right there I sappose ! Yea Brad , you nailed it, I;m using Mr. Kranes DVD and yup , I was blowing through the process so I could get to these youth deer lol . BUT....... I am still waiting to hear how I'm sapposed to strip and reprime this replica, I would really like to start with a fresh start and do it over again . Oh and I sure hope you can make it up to Michigan this year Brad , that way we can give Low T double the shart he deserves right lol !Thanks
  11. fozziebear

    fozziebear Active Member

    Thanks Bobber , I did the Q-tip deal but ........well , I did it very quickly just like the whole fish lol . Thanks for the info brotha, You got any deer dieing by you?
  12. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Not bad. I think the two biggest things that stand out to me - especially if you look at the photos posted, is you need more gold in that fish. Spending 90 minutes tipping all those scales below the lateral line and into the head will make a night and day difference in what you have here. The fish looks unfinished to me but in a decent stage to start tipping. Secondly, the golds and the markings into the head are way too soft and do not match the reference. This is where you need to toss the air brush aside and use hand brushes or other hand painting methods. By all means use Rick's dvd to give you some guidance, but YOU need to experiment and find out what works for YOU. Experimenting will help develop your own style and you'll learn a heck of a lot more vs. painting by numbers. The biggest thing is to look very closely at your reference pics and figure out ways to replicate what you see. There's a million different ways to get to similar end results...
  13. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    To answer the question about priming. I have just whitened a fish out with white and then sealed it with Bullseye sanding sealer and restarted from there. Without stripping but too many times of that and you lose detail.
  14. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Along those notes, if I were you I'd simply use lacquer thinner and wipe off as much as you can without working too hard. Then, steel wool the rest and call it your antiquing stage...
  15. Brian W

    Brian W Well-Known Member

    Rick.......not bad and good advice here. Paint looks too heavy and like Marty said, you need more crisp worm detail in the head area. Looks washed out. Take your pick on starting over if you choose to do that but I would take the paint off as opposed to putting more paint on it with the whiteout. Your initial "antiquing" is a key step and base.
    Use your reference, but try using trans amber oxide for the side. Go light on the shadowing effect for the markings. In addition to whatever scale tipping you do, try candy bright yellow with a brush, and hit in random pattern, scales on the side. You'll be surprised the effect you can achieve by doing that. Just one way to do it but I do like trans amber oxide on a Walleye as you can really change the color effect with the intensity you apply it. Steel wool as mentioned to soften any harsh or overpaint areas. Also, pay attention to the transition area in the caudal junction. The back side shows a rather abrupt transition in that area. Good luck...........
  16. fozziebear

    fozziebear Active Member

    Thanks everyone for the help !!!!! I will use some reference next time too .....lol ,I commited the taxidermy no no :D
  17. den007

    den007 Active Member

    First off, you have a great replica. That is #1. Second, why all this talk of sealing with shellac, etc? Replicas do not need a sealant. Third.....the facial details look fine to me. I don't think "wormlike" patterns in that area are as pronounced as you might see on some DVD's. I do not see it on typical, larger fish up north here. 3 Bears is right about the saddle marks.......I know there was some controversy there, but they are not that apparent, and do not extend low on 99.9% of bigger walleye reference I have customers send me. Otherwise, it looks like a giant perch.

    I do LCR walleye 2 ways......and can show you pics. One is to antique, paint the flanks dark, and individually aribrush each scale center with white plus yellow ochre mix. Then, mix it up a bit by hand detailing with gold/yellow plus orange, white pearl on lower part of fish. Above lateral line, hand tip with gold each scale. I randomly do a few below the lat line as well.

    Your coloration is not too dark for many walleye. The flanks are just indistinct.....and you are running that up above the lateral line where things get a bit different.

    Another way is, spray the fish top and flanks with black umber. Take a Dremel with a brass wire brush, and hollow out the interior of each scale below the lateral line. Blow trans amber oxide over that, and you can get a pretty good skin pattern.

    I surmise not all of this is clear, I can post a few pics, or go to my gallery (Google Angler's Art Taxidermy}

    If all else fails.....call me!

    You are on the right track.
  18. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Everybody sees things differently. For me, I'm pretty much the opposite. Nearly every walleye I've seen has very pronounced on down to subtle golds all the way to the belly. And, except for some variances with bright yellows or a white scale here and there, there's some gold on nearly every scale. There's also some golds ABOVE the lateral line as well. But, this is where I draw the line on a commercial paint job. Typically, the barring and somewhat darker portion above the lateral line on walleyes tones down those golds. What I do to achieve this look without spending another 60 minutes tipping and then toning down all of theses scales above the lateral line is through various underlying coats of Trans Amber Oxide, maybe some light gold finger rubs and sealers, then my barring, I'll steel wool over that barring and let the amber oxide pop thru the bars (also toning down the bars), giving the illusion of the gold tips from below the lateral line continuing up into the back. I'll also tip a few scales above the lateral line, but the bulk of my efforts are below. It typically takes me about 90 minutes to hit every scale with gold, but it's worth it IMO. Lastly, I too will hit the belly with some white pearl sparingly to also help soften where the gold tips meet the belly. Here's an LCR walleye rep and then a pic of some LCR and AA reps with a couple of walleye reps that I used this method on. You can see the variances in boldness and color of the golds. The one walleye rep on the board/stringer mount on the left was a much more washed out, almost a Lake Erie-like walleye. I toned down the tippings here using some soft gold and a little silver. And yeah, I know a stringer mount with a 50 inch musky included - lol! (Hey, my customer's check cleared and I got paid well and it was definitely different - lol!)

    Attached Files:

  19. fozziebear

    fozziebear Active Member

    Wow , I'm almost overwhelmed with all the great info here ! I am pumped to strip it and get at it again .....slowly lol ! I really enjoy doing fish and it is a great change from them darn whitetails . I will certainly look up your website den007 and Brian W. and FishArt thanks so much for taking the time to explain things in great detail for me . I kinda forgot how useful this site can be when I'm learning something new ;D I spend way too much time in the deer section lol ! Thanks again everyone !
  20. hambone

    hambone Well-Known Member

    Those are all nice fish you posted Fishart, what did you use for gills on the walleye on the stringer, it looks good.