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Rinehart Tanning Cream

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Bruledrift, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    I have a few questions about using this stuff. One, do you let the tan sweat into the skin in a refrigerator or at room temperature? Two, If the cape is tube skinned, do you flip the cape after 6 hours and then let it sweat another 6 hours or can you just apply to both sides and let it sit the 6 hours? Three, I have a cape that I tanned 3 years ago with this tanning cream. Because of time and money, I havn't got to do the thing. Is it any good? I pulled it out of the freezer and it's kind of dry in spots like leather. Can this cape be rehydrated and mounted? It would be cool to get the first questions answered tonight since I have a cape laying on the basement floor with cream on it covered in plastic.

    Thanks guys.
     
  2. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    1. Room temperature
    2. You paint the ENTIRE CAPE and then let it set.
    3. Too many variables to say.
     

  3. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    Thanks George, I was hoping to get you to answer. Do I need to have it hair out so it's skin to skin?
     
  4. danielemt

    danielemt New Member

    I used it on a fisher and a whitetail doe. Never again. Junk if you ask me! Hair slipped on both! Did it the way they tell you and watch Dan himself use it in a video!
     
  5. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Daniel, anyone who'd listen to anything the Wunderkin has to say is already behind the 8 ball. JRTS as sold by JOHN RINEHART is an excellent TOPICAL (read "paint on") tan when done correctly. I've used it for over 25 years until McKenzie played around with the formula (Now I use the HQ PT which is very close to the original JRTS). If your hide slipped, it was because it was spoiled prior to treatment, or Wonder Boy has some wrong information. I know that stuff he sells IS NOT "original" JRTS either.

    You flesh and salt overnight. Since I tube my skins, the skin is out and hair in. I lay it on a plastic sheet and coat the entire hide with the tan. Then I loosely drape the plastic over the hide and let it set overnight. I usually freeze it in this condition until I'm ready to use it. It never freezes so when I'm ready to work with it, I take it out and I wash it all off, final shave it and mount it.

    I've done fox kits, chipmunks, squirrels, coons, deer and hogs with it. I've never had an issue with it.
     
  6. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    I have to agree with George on this one. It had to be bad when you started. I just got done doing the final washing and thinning. The hair is locked tighter than a raw hide. It's in the freezer until I get the forms.

    George, I'm guessing I should have put it in the freezer before doing the final steps until I get the forms. What will happen?
     
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I don't know that. It's just the way I've always done it. I know that soap can raise hell with the pH on a hide, so I don't even wash my hides until I'm ready to mount them. If they're especially bloody, I rinse them off with cold tap water and spin them dry before fleshing and salting, but otherwise, I salt the raw/fleshed skin and then tan it. When I'm ready to use it, I wash it with Knobloch's Protex Pre-soak.
     
  8. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    Sounds good George. Thanks for the info.
     
  9. danielemt

    danielemt New Member

    Not sure if the hide was bad to start with or what. I was thinking of using it on deer legs for lamp someone asked me to do for them! I have 3/4 of a container left! I see you don't like to wash in soap. I used dawn to clean the hide, maybe that messed with ph and made it go bad. Who knows!
     
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    The container MUST be shaken vigorously each time its used to insure the lanolin and acid mix thoroughly. If you don't, you'll paint only the lanolin on the hide and it will slip. ,11
     
  11. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    Alright, sick of reading through past posts, but I like to know things exact before I do them. I do the short-y (tubed cape). All the info I found on salting hides are for sending to a tannery or doing the pickle method of home tan. On salting when using the non-pickle method of the rub on tanning creams on a short y cape, do you roll the cape up skin side out or hair side out to drain? If it is hair side out, how would you get it do drain thouroughly? I've done 2 of them, both of them I hung above a bucket to drain. One the hide was dry but plyable, the second one got basicly rock hard and I had to completely rehydrate to thin and apply the tan. What would be the correct tested method? Also, has anyone refroze the hide before putting on the tanning cream? Can't order more cream until next week, fricking x-mas.

    Also, I thought I had the John Rinehart Cream, it's the Dan Rinehart Cream. The two I did seem to be good, they thinned real nice, but I havn't got them mounted yet. I called TASCO and they stated (of coarse) that the JRTS at Mkenzie had been changed, and theres is the original. Any thoughts on that.

    I know it's not rocket science.
     
  12. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Thanks to the generosity of one of our forum members, I have a quart of the ORIGINAL JRTS and I can tell you with some certaintly, TASCO is FOS. Their "original recipe" is nowhere close to the original stuff.

    Now why would you even WANT the JRTS to drain. The SALT is supposed to let the hide drain. I apply the JRTS to the flesh side of a hide LAID OUT FLAT ON A PLASTIC BAG. Once coated, I fold the bag over to PREVENT them from drying out. After 6 hours, mine go into the freezer until I"m ready to work on them. THEN I wash the hide, final shave it and install it on the form.
     
  13. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    LOL, not the JRTS to drain, the salted cape?
     
  14. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I don't think I've ever seen a salted hide dry out over a single night. That's all the longer it should be salted.
     
  15. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    Are you rolling your salted hide skin out to drain or hair out?

    Thanks,
     
  16. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    NO, Hair out so that the salt can interact with the contact side of the skin facing it.
     
  17. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    That makes sence, that is why mine got too dry. But, when you say you salt and roll up, how does the liquids drain off of a short y tubed cape, there is no edge for it to drain out. That's why I was hanging mine and letting it drain out the bottom.
     
  18. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    This ain't exactly to let science. You're only salting OVERNIGHT. Any water settling in that hide is story SALTY WATER. Dump it out and paint the tan on it.
     
  19. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    Alright George, Alright. I just don't want them to turn into a science project, lol. Thanks for the help.