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Obssesed with huge water waves/splashes

Discussion in 'Habitat and Exhibit' started by stuffinducks, Dec 31, 2012.

  1. M.T.

    M.T. Active Member

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    I'm sorry George, I to keep most of my experiences to myself. I will pm people sometimes but never tell them "pm sent". I feel that I have many many years of trial and error and I damn sure am not going to tell everyone and their brother what I know! I know that you and others claim there are no secrets, but I still have some up my sleve. Just joking with ya man, what I don't understand though, is why can't people just look at something and then just figure out on their own how to do it? That part of the art of taxidermy is what comes easy for me, maybe not so for others though. HRStuffinducks, just look at what SS does with his duck mounts and it is very easy to duplicate. Clear silicone, plexiglass and some envirotex and a little time is all it takes.
     
  2. ShastaDonegan

    ShastaDonegan Lets start with ridiculous and move backwards.

    I would like to add that fiberglass resin alone does not work...I tried it a few months ago and vowed never to touch it again till i knew what i was doing a bit more...i made such a mess...lol
     

  3. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    M.T., I couldn't agree with you more. I do much the same as you and often wonder the same as you why people can't look at a finished item and get the gist of the methods. We both know there are a few people at the very top of their game here and I realize they have friends. I'm not in that class, but if I know something one of my friends has questions about, I quietly and simply PM him or her and offer advice. I don't plaster to the world, "Nana nana boo boo, I know but I'm not telling you" by putting that silly assed "PM sent" out to llet others know I've told them. If Bill Yox ever did that to me, I'd copy it and paste it on the post. And Bill knows I would.
     
  4. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

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    [​IMG]
    Not exactly a duck, but something I did using many different chemicals and techniques.
     
  5. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

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    and here's another. Maybe this will help you with some ideas.

    [​IMG]


    I know there are much better splash builders out there. I'm a rookie, but even I can come up with something that resembles. I used clear casting resin, fiberglas resin, envirotex, plexiglas, and florescent light covers. Some of the beads that you melt and just kept adding until I got what I got.
     
  6. duxdown

    duxdown New Member

    Antlerman stop teaseing where is the second splash pic, I just see a picture of a girl from HOOTERS ;D
     
  7. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

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    well.......I never noticed those. Glad you pointed them out for me. LOL
     
  8. Justin P.

    Justin P. Active Member

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    It would be really cool if she didn't have to hold the fish there.
     
  9. ShastaDonegan

    ShastaDonegan Lets start with ridiculous and move backwards.

    It would be even cooler if I was the one that mounted that grizzly/brown bear and habitat. Great job Tim.
     
  10. M.T.

    M.T. Active Member

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    tailgrabbing a sockeye! That's what I see. Oh wait, theres a bear and some other fish too! Man, I had to doubletake that one. Wow, look at those boulders!
     
  11. ShastaDonegan

    ShastaDonegan Lets start with ridiculous and move backwards.

    Makes that giant necklace look small...bet she's on everyone's pool party list ;)
     
  12. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

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    Well, it just proves that with some chemicals and some techniques, some imagination, and a starting specimen you can achieve that in which you desire. LOL I just wish I had been the one to have enhanced her into such a nice looking mount.
     
  13. duxdown

    duxdown New Member

    Someone say pool party ;D
     
  14. The reason and ONLY reason I added the "pm sent"to Jeffs post was so that people would see that someone DID want to take the time to help him instead of not replying at all like he stated he was expecting. For anyone that took that as a tease I appologise. I'm sure tackier things have been done on this site George. Here are my methods. On the bright side I can just take this off of what I offer in training. Also Shane Smiths methods are much more involved than what was posted above and you cant buy the materials at Home Depot. Give the guy some credit. This will be the first article of everything I know and taught myself so read, apply and enjoy the benefits. I will not be following these threads except to add more articles so discuss questions amongst yourselves. As far as the hundreds of pm's Ive answered with tecniques I appreciate the ones who took the time to send a thankyou back.

    CREATING WATER SURFACES


    The main reason I choose to sculpt my water surfaces is because more often than not there is water displacement occuring. Such as the photos here with oldsquaw and bufflehead.

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    As the head goes in, water is displaced around the birds head out to create the splash. This happens when anything is placed in the water ie: a running duck foot, landing or flushing bird you get the idea. Its all in the reference so study it like you would for any of your subjects.Also Primary,secondary ripples will cross and intersect eachother.Waves will also have many secondary ripples. This is always present when you look close. This is another feature impossible to get with poured resin the list goes on so lets get started. After determining shape here I covered the plywood with wax paper to keep the clay easily removable to be reused after the mould was pulled. The clay I used here was a medium hardness oil based clay called kleen-clay. Using a rolling pin I flattened out peices and began covering the area. A modified horse brush is used to take out lumps and work the clay into a flat surface. Rake in all directions. Next I used rolls of clay to start my ripples.
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    The ripples are worked and smoothed with my fingers and the heat of my hands. After my larger ripples are in, using loop tools and wooden tools I carve in some choppy textures according to my reference which was wind blowing across the water as the buffalo drank.


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    Mineral spirits and a scotchbrite pad help to polish and smooth the clay. Now my fine ripples are added and polished out. A large stiff paintbrush or a toothebrush work well to blend the finer details. The trick here is to copy everything you see in your reference!

    [​IMG] Once your satisfyed if room allows place the clay in a fridge,freezer or outside to chill and harden up. Then to realy polish it you can take a cloth or a peice of plastic with and further clean it up. Its not absolutely necessary though because a final gloss will be added later on the finished casting. Now seal the clay with a good coat of spray gloss and give a final inspection. Now were ready to mould.
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    If your doing a one time mould, you can use 100% silicone out of the tube as I did here. For moulds that I want to have more longevity I prefer a catylized silicone. The tube silicone requires a release so I sprayed a light coat on and brushed it in as per directions. Let dry 10 min then spray a second light coat. No need to brush in the second. If using high grade catylized silicone no release is needed in the moulding or casting procedure. I apply the first coat of silicone thin taking it slow squirting the material onto my finger and laying it on so that no air is trapped. Tube silicone can also be thinned with Xylenen "from the hardware store" and applied with a brush, but I think I have better control not trapping air pockets with my fingers.Let cure.

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    Now you need to make "keys for the mothermould.Brush a little vaseline into an icetray or small cups as I've done here or something smaller. Squirt as much as you think you need to fill them on cardboard and stir in a dab of acrylic paint. This will "kick" the rubber so get it in your cups quick and set aside.

    [​IMG] The second coat on your mould can be applied thicker. Before the second coat drys on the surface lay a peice of cheeseclothe into it so it sticks, doing it in sections usually works best. Dip your fingers in soapy water to smooth the surface and help it from sticking to your fingers as you lightly press in the cheeseclothe.Let cure. The third coat is to cover the clothe and thicken the mould. Again wet your hands in the soapy water to smooth the surface. Now take your premade keys and glue them in with more rubber.Be sure all is filled around the bases where they merge into the rest of the mould.Allow to cure.

    [​IMG] Now apply mould release in the same fashion as before to prevent the support shell from sticking. Bondo and resin are applied over the keys to insure a nice fit between rubber keys and mothermould.
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    3 applications of fiberglass were wet in with resin then wood supports were added to take away any flex in the mothermould.

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    [​IMG] After the fiberglass cured the mothermould was removed and the silicone was cleaned with mineral spirits.

    [​IMG] Put the mould back into the jacket and apply a new coat of mould release. Surfboard glass is pulled apart and stockpiled in 4-6" peices, edges from the roll are discarded. The surfboard glass will dissapear when it is wet out.

    [​IMG] The mould is brushed with resin then then 3 layers of glass are wetted in. Make sure you have trapped 0 air. This is the reason the glass is tore apart.Now apply a couple gloss coats of resin to eliminate any fiber patterns you may have on the non showside. This is important for the tinting/coloring process. NEVER add tints or color into resin that is being used for glassing. When cured the casting is pulled and the flashing trimmed. Now clean the mould release from the casting with mineral spirits.The casting is leaned vertically and two coats of tinted resin were brushed onto the underside. The tint was a little brown and a little yellow laquer paint. This is a very transparent couple of coats and is how you start fading into the "depth look" to the water.
     
  15. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Mike you above being on top of your game. That's gorgeous work but even if you explain how you do it, I'm too dumb to understand it. Thank you fir sharing what the best looks like.
     
  16. Thank you for sharing. Beautiful work, maybe some day I will be able to do it. Thanks again. I really appriciated it
     
  17. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

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    Sir Michael....I humbly bow to you sir. Thank You for sharing.
     
  18. Well the last hours work finishing this article just dissapeared.
     
  19. [​IMG]
    Anytime you are painting resin only "not wetting the glass" lay the casting vertical so it does not pool up ESPECIALLY when adding your color layers.





    The final gloss on the casting is a 2 part automotive gloss. If you like you can set the casting vertical and paint a coat of Envirotex on instead. With the coloring done now a 1/4" thick sheet of acrylic is cut to fit the base for the casting to sit on. Before applying the sheet of water the acrylic is fogged with paint to create murkyness.

    [​IMG] The water sheet is set on and five minute epoxy glues it in and fills any slight gaps around the edge.
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    Finished water surface.

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  20. Bill Yox

    Bill Yox Well-Known Member

    Hmmm, George, you didnt have anything to say to me on this, my friend? ;)