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First black crappie replica...blast away!

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by tmf48, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. This is my first shot at a black crappie replica. It has not been glossed yet but other than that I think its done. Any opinions are more than welcome!

    Thanks,
    Mark
     

    Attached Files:

  2. tracy

    tracy coon dogs

    from what i see very good job
    for a first one
     

  3. Ed

    Ed Member

    i like your markings and overall neatness but the bronze body color reminds me more of a smallie then a crappie.
     
  4. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Looks good, but from the picture it does look too gold. I would tone it down with some candy light green and fading up to candy medium green along the back.
     
  5. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    I'm not going to comment on color too much because fish vary greatly. But, you did a nice job. The main things that stand out initially are first your transition to the belly whites. I think the anal fin area aft you didn't carry the whites far enough UP. You need (typ) darker markings as you go up too. And then the pelvic fin positions look too far down and awkwardly positioned. Pec fin is out a bit much for my taste too and it appears there's no pec muscle built there??? Other than this stuff I think I'd be getting pretty picky. Not bad for a first and very good for a replica first crappie. Not the easiest to pull off...
     
  6. PaBear

    PaBear New Member

    57
    0
    Looks good to me for your first attempt. I agree with Marty on the white. It's the first thing that caught my eye. Not that I've done that a lot, but I can find flaws with every fish I do so just keep at it.
     
  7. Thanks for the input guys! Ed and Marty, I didn't really notice the starkness of the belly white transition until I looked at the pic! Don't know why. Anyway I'm taking steps to correct that. As far as the gold tone, I guess it should have been darker up towards the top but overall it is more of a green tint than gold. I don't know why the camera pictures won't show that, but different lighting and angles wouldn't bring it out. Anyway, you guys are a great help! Thanks!
     
  8. Monty Artrip

    Monty Artrip Active Member

    1,665
    2
    I agree about the white. It was the first thing that caught my eye also. Looks like you nailed the markings for sure. Take suggestiin above on the trans green and go a lttle heavier at the top and fade it out about half way down. Overall great job, they area more difficult repro to pull off.
     
  9. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, once you do the white and maybe add some green, it's be a dynomite fish. It's already better than my first crappie.
     
  10. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    If it hasn't been glossed yet, I'd try using some steel wool on the area above the anal fin there that should transition better. Use a small piece and rub in circles to peel away some of the paint there. Work lightly and slowly add pressure. You may not even need much white added vs. allowing some of the underlying white to show thru from the blank. Perhaps the steel wool and some silver pearl and/or white pearl sprayed up may soften that transition area just enough??? It doesn't need much. Just soften the transition and add your color (green usually) over the back and be done with it!

    P.S. I'd steel wool the white forward of this area as well. It's a bit stark and adding to the problem I think! Just enough to "dirty" it up a little in some of the existing white areas (fin base and that area). Goal is to soften the transition...
     
  11. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    Ditto with what has been said. I would add your markings are too evenly spread (looks artficial) and they should be more numerous and crowded as you go up the side.

    Not bad for a first attempt. It's difficult for many to pull off a naturally painted black crappie especially a repro. Heck some people can't even skin one out without loosing scales!
     
  12. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I know many have said try steel wool, but every time I've every tried it I get some little lines where it took off some of the paint at the edge. No matter how softly I rub or how fine of steel wool I use, this happens.
     
  13. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    That's funny, I use steel wool all of the time to create certain effects and I've never had any issues. I use the 000 fine and the double ought. How do you antique replicas with nice even tones if this happens? The only thing I can think of is either some paint/sealer/release issues? Or possibly some more practice with the steel wool boarhunter? I couldn't do finger rubs with powders and waxes for years w/o globbing a chunk here and there. Now it seems easy. Some neat effects can be achieved with steel wool too if you play with it. In this case, I don't think there's anything to lose by trying the steel wool. The white paint coming out is the worst case if something goes wrong. And w/o the steel wool the white paint comes out anyway. JMO...
     
  14. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I do use it when antiquing, just not to lighten a pattern as someone suggested on a crappie.
     
  15. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    I was just curious as to why there would be any difference? After all, when antiquing you are lightening your pattern as you say. You're removing paint in both instances. Why would it flake at the edges in this scenario and not flake when you antique your blanks? It's basically the same application. FYI, I use steel wool often on skin mounts as well and never had any issues with skins or reps. I still say if it's flaking for you then there's something else going on...
     
  16. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    It's not "flaking," but scratching little lines.
     
  17. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Gotcha, I understand what you're saying now. That's normal, the finer the steel wool the finer the lines. (And the lines will be limited if you can do the steel wool soon after laying down the paint). Going in circles and the right touch will limit the steel wooled/scratching look at the edges. And oftentimes a little white or silver pearl paint (in the above example) or whatever color to blend that edge is also necessary. Should be noted that - that's just the way I would do it. Many different ways and techniques to approach different problems...
     
  18. BIGUN

    BIGUN Member

    769
    0
    We could give you twice as much useful critique if we could see the fish you're trying to replicate. DS
     
  19. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Does it matter if I use lacquer paint instead of water based?
     
  20. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    It must be a conspiracy with boarhunter67! LOL

    Sorry boarhunter67 couldn't help myself.