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what tan is your favorite?

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by D.D, Feb 5, 2013.

  1. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    When people say brush on, do they really brush it on? I tried that once and wasn't satisfied so I went back to the way I do it, which is to pour a bunch on, rub in in as much as possible, and leave the extra on top to soak in. This means I probably use twice as much as necessary, but it usually all soaks in or nearly so.
  2. Bruce_Rittel

    Bruce_Rittel Consultant Services

    Almost all tap water is heated to be called "Hot" from your spigot. The Temperature ranges from a 110-120 Degrees. So you have to consider washing your tanned skin or cape, but you dont want to break the chemical bonding that stabilizes it, holding the tanning agent to the flesh. If you do want that quality built into your finished tanning - choose either Chrome (an excellent tan, but not good for Taxidermy work), or a Syntan (like EZ-100). Some tans simply arent bonded strongly enough to withstand washing in a heated Water.

    That 180 Degrees I mentioned for EZ-100 is referred to among Tanners and in many Tanning Books as the Tanning Agent's "Shrinkage Temperature". If you exceed it - obviously you break the bond, and the Tanning Agent washes out. Then, as it dries the skin shrinks because there are no stabilizing ions (Tanning Agent ions) present to prevent it.

    Most Suppliers already know the Ts of the Tanning Agents they sell. Just ask them. And ask them if they consider them washable when tanned and dried. It's a good selling point for your business - tell your customers about the quality Mount you produce - including the possibility of future maintenance to keep it looking good when they have it at home.

  3. D.D

    D.D New Member

    Sorry for my lack of knowledge here but can someone help me out? I've been using the search for the last few hours and haven't found much info to exactly answer my questions...

    I've checked my McKenzie catalog and narrowed down my options to either keeping para tan, or trying lutan f. Or going with a brush on such as McKenzie tan or liqua-tan. (I would like to stick to McKenzie products because I have one locally so I wont have to ship it in).
    I have two questions... first, would there be a noticeable difference to switch to lutan from para-tan if they are both a submerged bath type tan?
    Second, seems to me that the brush on tans (liqua-tan ans McKenzie tan) are alot more expensive. 1 qt is the same price as 5lbs of the submerged tans. Does a little last a long time with the brush on tans or are they really more expensive to use?
  4. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Many people on this thread said they like Trubond and you're not even considering it?
  5. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    X2 on what Bruce said. I use Ez-100 for the past 9 years along with Liqua-tan and Tru-bond. I like them all.
  6. D.D

    D.D New Member

    Its not that I didn't consider it, truebond sounds like a very good tan. However I want to keep to something I can pick up at the McKenzie warehouse down the road from my house, I like the idea of a brush on tan for easea but it seems like there can be alot of waste... or I guess it seems like 25$ worth of a brush on tan wouldn't last as long as 25$ of the bath type tans. This is just my assumption correct me if im wrong on this. But for 25$ I can get 5lb of lutan vs 1 qt of a brush on for the same price
  7. Justin P.

    Justin P. Active Member

    D.D, you should ask Nyati about shipping!
  8. Shipping is not that bad, They only charge you actual shipping cost , They even refunded the difference on my last order. They are a great company to do business with
  9. D.D

    D.D New Member

    I didn't ask about shipping, because I didn't know who sells it on the sight. I didn't even look into the cost of product. The downfall I see to brush ons (and I could be wong) but to me it SEEMS that dollar for dollar the submersible tans will last alot longer because you know exactly how much you need to use based off dry weight. Vs just dumping some on and rubbing it in until you think you have enough, I know I would always put more than needed onto the cape resulting in wasted product.

    Can someone who has used both types of tans comment on this? Seems to me that 5lbs of lutan for 25$ would last alot longer than 1qt of a brush on tan for 25$
  10. D.D

    D.D New Member

    That was my thoughts, and that's why I decided to first try lutan. even though truebond sounds like a very good tan it just make more sense FOR ME to use a more cost effective tan as long as it yields good results.
    Seems I can tan atleast 15 hides out of my 5lb 27$ jug of para tan and I do a handful of elk hides every year the rest being mule deer. The mixture for lutan is similar to para tan, and as hudson said its unlikely a qt of a brush on could cover even 10 hides. So unless I can get around a gallon of brush on for around 30$ I would like to stick with a submerge tan because it seems more cost effective
  11. They also sell a submersible tan , Permatan 2000
  12. D.D

    D.D New Member

    im also curious about the price and amount you get. Also how much is needed per dry pound of hide
  13. Contact Justin he can help you with any questions.
  14. D.D

    D.D New Member

    What's his username on the sight?
  15. Justin P
  16. bowhuntnnut

    bowhuntnnut 210-260-0190

    You can expect to use 8-12 ozs of a brush on tan per cape. But realize you are also oiling at the same time.
  17. dozier

    dozier New Member

    HQ 5000 . Head Quarters Supply . Very nice tan . Good stretch . Very low shrinkage . Dependable consistent tan .
  18. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Tru-Bond utilizes a STAND ALONE form of a LIQUID SUBMERCIBLE, which means, you will get the SAME tan as a submercible tan, without the cost of salt and, NO TAN WASTE WATER!

    When say "stand alone", I MEAN, the same quality of a mineral tan, liked Lutan, without using water as a delivery method of the tannage. Actually a precise mathmatical equation involving the activity of the tannage itself, the activity of the oil used, and the average weight of a pound of deer skin, was how how I came up with Tru-Bonds final formulation.

    BEFORE Tru-Bond, MOST "paint-on" tans were formulated with the use of glutaraldehyde. THIS is used for re-tanning chrome(mineral) tanned skins, and also a long term preservative and dis-infectant.(closely related to formaldehyde) This type of"paint-on" leaves the skin stiff and yellowish, after drying.

    Im not getting a dime for making this post! No royalties,comissions, notta! Just want to make this clear, before someone tries to use this as a scape-goat for their lack of knowledge. ::)

    The FACT is, commercial tanners for Taxdidermists, could QUIT using submerciible tans, and move to tanning and oiling, all in one step! This would eliminate a good 30-40% of their waste water, and water usage as a whole!

    The products are there, if you know how to use them!
  19. Aubrey, thank you for developing TB 1000
  20. Rhino

    Rhino Too many irons in the fire will put the fire out!

    Hudson, I just cant for the life of me, figure out how you can say it cost DOUBLE to tan a cape with a paint-on, versus a submercible?

    Submercible tan: $4.60(your figure) plus labor. If a Taxidermist tries to average $30.00 per hr, add $10.00(20 minutes) to your figure, for mixing the tan, checking pH, dumping, etc. Not to mention extra containers, space needed, warming water. Now that figure is $14.60. Heck, lets bump that down to $12.00 per cape.

    Paint-on tan: At $55.00 per gallon of paint-on tan, and 12 capes per gallon, thats $4.58 per cape, plus $2.50 labor(5 min) for application. $7.08 per cape.

    This is just a friendly discussion, and I am sure alot more variables could be found. The way I see it, a Taxidermist will always pay way less using a paint-on, versus a submercible. Truth be told, I really dont care who uses what. Thats my 2 cents, yall have a good one! ;D