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Correct Salting???????????

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by 126whitetail, Mar 8, 2013.

  1. I split a javelina and mule deer cape and salted it, left it for about 12 hours on a slanted salting table, then scraped off the old salt and put some fresh salt and have had that on their for about 32 hours, the capes are now dry to the touch and quite pliable still.

    Are they ready to be shipped to the tannery or do they need more salting?

    Any shipping/packing tips would be appreciated too...

    And anyone know what South Texas charges for a shoulder javelina, by chance?

    thanks in advance
     
  2. brigham boy

    brigham boy "if it's horny, mount it"

    738
    0
    utah
    Re: Correct Salting???????????

    Fold them up neatly, place in front of a fan dry them pretty hard then ship

    Droid Baby!!!

    Shut up and mount
     

  3. Matt

    Matt Active Member

    10,837
    2
    They are ready. I let mine hang for 3 days and then they get shipped out. They don't have to be completely dry to ship out, just not wet on the skin side.
     
  4. I assume that hanging them won't stretch them improperly?


    Which id tags to do recommend and where do I get them? I read in the the McKenzie catalog 38 that if a metal tag is soaked for over 12 hours in strong acid it may disintegrate.

    Thanks for the responses
     
  5. RoyalOaksRanch

    RoyalOaksRanch Royal Oaks Taxidermy- When Quality Counts...

    Punch code your skins.... tags can get ripped off during the shaving process, I use an awl and just punch a sequence of holes in each cape... That way I know they are mine, and they dont run the risk of being cut off... I always mark mine in the same spot as well.. For example bears Ill do the right shoulder.. Deer Ill do about midway up the neck, this way I dont interfere with the punch code the tannery uses..

    ***
    ****
    *

    That would stand for 341.. and I put on my clients work order the same markings so I am assured they dont get mixed up.
     
  6. I thought the tannery needed the tags so that they know whose deer cape is which?
     
  7. FIELD2FOREVER

    FIELD2FOREVER The more I learn, The more I don't Know!!

    Na, the tannery will assign you a #, then they'll punch that # in your stuff as it comes in to keep them straight.
     
  8. I think they are ready to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    Thanks everyone for all the advice.
     
  9. RoyalOaksRanch

    RoyalOaksRanch Royal Oaks Taxidermy- When Quality Counts...


    Seriously? You trust a tannery to mark your skins FOR you when they are taking in so many? Unless you are standing RGHT there with your skins and they punch code them in front of you.... how are you to know which skin is yours? AND without coding your own capes how do you tell which cape belongs to which client?
    And YES I have recieved capes that were NOT mine.. if I hadnt punch coded the capes Id never have known... but guaranteed my clients seem to sure recognize their capes...
     
  10. You said in your first post(unless I misunderstood) that you punch code your deer skins on the neck, isn't that just more little holes to sew?
     
  11. FIELD2FOREVER

    FIELD2FOREVER The more I learn, The more I don't Know!!

    The tannery couldn't give two chits what tag or number you put in your cape, they're going to punch it with their own number so they know what is yours. YES I tag all my hides so I know what cape goes out to the tannery, can be sure it comes back, and which set of antlers it goes with when it does. 126whitetail was asking if the tannery needed his tag #
     
  12. FIELD2FOREVER

    FIELD2FOREVER The more I learn, The more I don't Know!!

    And when I say "tag" I mean punch because yes, them stupid little tags have a way of getting off the hog ring and lost forever lol
     
  13. You said in your first post(unless I misunderstood) that you punch code your deer skins on the neck, isn't that just more little holes to sew?
     
  14. FIELD2FOREVER

    FIELD2FOREVER The more I learn, The more I don't Know!!

    Na, the punch holes are so small that they dont need any sewing, they cause no problems with mounting your critter.
     
  15. Thank You,

    Since me punching the holes is just for my identification, I'll just make note of the holes I made while fleshing and splitting and if I get a cape back without those holes, I know it's not mine...


    If I made a mistake in any thing I did before it was tanned, will I know whether or not the hair will slip right when I get it back? Or will hair start to slip after its mounted?
     
  16. Re: Correct Salting AND folding for shipping???????????

    I forgot to ask, how do you fold capes for shipping, with hair side in and raw side out or visa-versa?

    And do you fold the head toward the inside or the outside or does it matter?

    If I made a mistake in any thing I did before it was tanned, will I know whether or not the hair will slip right when I get it back? Or will hair start to slip after its mounted?


    Thank you very much
     
  17. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I use plastic tags zip tied to the ear canal AND I punch a number (usually the last 4 digits of a client's phone number) into the back of the hide using a phillips screwdriver, hammer, and block of wood. I do the numbers like mentioned. For folding, fold skin to skin, but put newspaper between layers. This helps keep them dry.
     
  18. Thanks Everyone
     
  19. RoyalOaksRanch

    RoyalOaksRanch Royal Oaks Taxidermy- When Quality Counts...


    The holes are small... dont need to stitch them..
     
  20. if you call the tannery up first to set up they should give you the punch codes for you to punchin the cape if you ask ??? they well give you their answers and tell you there process