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nails

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by KJ, May 3, 2013.

  1. KJ

    KJ New Member

    43
    0
    Hi, I'm having trouble trying to get my nails to penetrate the bone under the antler burrs. What kind of nails do you have the best results with? Thanks.
     
  2. BRTX

    BRTX New Member

    81
    0
    No nails. A roll of Apoxie Sculpt around the burr is all.
     

  3. LightsOut

    LightsOut New Member


    X2, and good glue. make sure you thin that skin around the antler burr.
     
  4. Finishing nails about 1'' to 1/12". They don't go all the way through, just enough to hold while hide is drying then remove
     
  5. J Cook

    J Cook Cook Taxidermy

    I use toe nails from WASCO, they are a hardened nail. I use the 45mm and pull when dry.
     
  6. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    Never ever used nails.
     
  7. Dave Byrd

    Dave Byrd Active Member

    I use 18 gauge brad nails. Like kbcountry said, they don't have to be driven in deep to hold during the drying time.
     
  8. B Jones

    B Jones Memeber of - NTA,UTA,AIT.Proud Member of NZTA.

    Nails?
     
  9. bmdakk

    bmdakk Report to moderator

    :eek: ??? ??? :eek:
     
  10. Nails? Thats funny stuff....did you know there are national and world champion whitetail deer taxidermist that use nails around the pedicals of their deer to help prevent shrinkage. They also use all the other stuff mentioned,apoxie sculp, glue, and a special way of stitching...several ways to "skin a cat"
     
  11. Badgerland

    Badgerland Quality taxidermy & quality deer capes.

    Many years ago when I went to taxi school my instructor taught us to use nails around burrs. I quickly developed my own way if stitching around them instead. Glue & stitches hold very well, shrinkage from burr is minimal. The under side of the burr is air-brushed brown so you don't see white showing if the skin does pull some. In the extreme of a gap being as much as an 1/8 of an inch, you can add some texture bumps w/epoxy sculpt in those areas. When its air-brushed you'd never know.
    This all does take some practice though.
     
  12. I'm self taught, but nails have never crossed my mind before. Just thin the hide down good because that's where the shrinkage comes into play and use some good glue.
     
  13. I agree with thinning the hide but I have had the hide tear when trying to tighten the seem from thinning too much. Nails are just a little insurance. Jody Green told me once, sometimes on comercial mounts he leaves the nails in and just clips them below hair line..
     
  14. Do not use nails but in the rare instance I use 1 7/8" sheet rock nails "nice point and sharp"
     
  15. Bob Mead

    Bob Mead Mead Taxidermy Studio, LLC

    I use finishing nails on horned gameheads, not on antlered stuff though...they hold good with glue so nails aren't needed.

    As a sidenote, I use a sh*tpot of the same finishing nails on my javelina mounts too...holds the hide tight while you backbrush them ;)
     
  16. B Jones

    B Jones Memeber of - NTA,UTA,AIT.Proud Member of NZTA.

    Using nails is the funny stuff, you and Jody Green go ahead and use them. If the hide is prepped right and you set the antlers correctly there is no need for nails. Save them for your wood work, I'll bet there are many more world and national champs that don't than there are that do. I'd rather skin my cat without nails.

    I am with Mr. Mead I use nails on horned game and what I use are the toe nails. They are hardened and will go into the bone easier than soft nails. There are also nails available in the construction industry that are called tension pins. These nails are also hardened and will not bend going into bone.
     
  17. Of course you don't use nails....you use ......."Brads" ;)
     
  18. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I'm just amazed that Jody would admit that. Back in the days of DP I did crap like that but chemistry is not your friend. Ambient temperature and humidity cause corrosion ( even on stainless and galvanized steel). That corrosion leechs out into the hide and, through osmosis, up the shafts of hair. Those mounts ended up with stain spots.

    As someone else said, "thinning" your hide is much over used. If you sew a hide properly around that burr. You need a thickness to cinch the stitch down without cutting or tearing the hide.

    I don't use nail anywhere on my mounts. I do pin the front corner of the eye, buy I expect my glue to do the rest of the job.
     
  19. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

    12,572
    5
    Nails are for building houses. Not mounting deer heads. If nails are needed, something is out of fit.