1. Welcome to Taxidermy.net, Guest!
    We have put together a brief tutorial to help you with the site, click here to access it.

photographing mounts

Discussion in 'Wildlife Artwork and Crafts' started by j.mik., Jul 5, 2013.

  1. Hi everyone. Been coming to the site for a long time, but never to this section. I've mounted fish for a long time, and all along I've been a little frustrated at the pictures of the mounts for either promoting or posting. I've got some dark fabric that I'd use for a backdrop. Would any of you share some of the "secrets" to getting the most out of photographing your work? Lighting set-ups, locations, flash, etc. Anything would be helpful. My son's phone is probably 10 times the camera as my dedicated camera: A Nikon coolpix 4.0 from about 6 years ago. But it's probably not the camera, but the guy using it! Thanks. John.
  2. *

    * Liberalism IS A MENTAL ILLNESS !

    Never use a flash...Never use auto setting , you must learn how to use your camera MANUALLY, forget about expensive lighting. I use 40-60 watt bulbs and 2.00 metal work lights...

    You are right it's the guy or gal holding the camera...Get a book or take a class...or just PRACTICE
    Nowadays it EASY to practice...In the old days you had to write down your experiment settings then develop and print. Now you just look at the picture instantly.....and adjust accordingly.

  3. I agree and disagree with * on this. There is merit in using the way he described with the lights, but I disagree about never using a flash. I would not use the flash bult in to the camera because it is normally to harsh and depending on the camera the flash will have no adjustability. My Fuji has an adjustable flash but unless you know how to use the manual settings accordingly, your exposure is all over the place. The other options you have are a quality speedlight and a basic studio light set-up. In dealing with fish knowing where the light is going to highlight the fish is paramount and that is where the studio strobes are invaluable. The goal is to get "push" the hot spots (bright reflective areas) off the fish or at least out of the area of interest by adjusting your strobes (up, down, left, right, in, out, etc.) In photographing the fish and fish carving pieces at the World Show that is the technique I would use. This makes the fish stand out without the annoying supernova reflection in the middle of the fish. If all else failed because of the shape of the fish I would try and put the reflections on the dorsal fins to rest of the fish illuminated nicely. A basic muslin background and 2 studio strobes help immensely. * is correct in getting to know your manual settings and this will provide you better pictures in the long run. Check out www.cowboystudios.com They have mid-grade strobe lighting that does a good job. (I use it at home)
  4. srholmes30

    srholmes30 Living each and every day

    I have had good results Using natural light only (from windows) with out any artificial light. Nice back drop,tripod if you have one)
  5. Havent tried ambient light for mounts but will have to try it, but considering how revealing it can be, checking the mount out before you shoot it will definately be beneficial! :)
  6. barryo

    barryo Member

    A camera is a "truth machine" and you will notice things in the pictures that you never did in person. Angling the lights from various angles will reduce shadows. Actually I have seen some really impressive fish photographs taken outdoors on a cloudy day. The fish were on a black felt background...felt was glued onto a piece of plywood.
  7. Final85

    Final85 New Member

    I walk every mount outside and find a good place in the natural light to take pictures of them. its a lot more work but the clarity is well worth it.