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Help with Matuska/Cory Caruthers bird heads

Discussion in 'Bird Taxidermy' started by mimes, Oct 15, 2013.

  1. mimes

    mimes New Member

    I have recently switched from Ferebee heads to Caruthers waterfowl heads. I use foam necking with a smaller 1/4 piece for the esophagus. I am not exactly sure what the best method is to mate the foam necking to his heads is since he has a dished out area on his heads. Ideally, Matuska or Cory will hear about this thread and post some pics of the correct way to do this. I know to drill hole and hot glue, what I mean is how to trim the necking and get the CORRECT placement and flow for different poses and where to insert wire/drill hole. I know there are different neck positions on standing versus flying birds. I would also like to see these. If anyone out there would like to share their method with the same type head, feel free.
  2. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    Does not the head and neck juncture location remain the same regardless of position? You can grind out more of the head material or cut the foam to fit the contour of the head, or a little of both, I have only used those heads a few times. Pay attention to neck length.

  3. critterstuffr

    critterstuffr New Member

    I have been using Cory's heads for a few years now. What i do is drill two holes in the neck juncture one to fit the main neck and a smaller one for the esophagus. I lock those in place with hot glue. The thing i like about the so called dished out area is when you bend the neck into position it will give the foam neck material a place to lay at the same time works well for straight or flying positions as well. By locking the foam to the head it stays in place as you adjust the position of the head/neck. Just my way hope this makes some sense and is helpful.
  4. alan webfoot

    alan webfoot New Member

    the spine remains the same ,,but neck muscles move shift and appear to change the position of the entire neck ,best thing is a fresh duck neck and head to reference from take pictures drawings etc. Grasp the end of the bill while moving the neck in ''flying pos. standing ,preening ,,tucked in.etc. even the esophagus shifts around a LOT!!! Anchoring depends on position of the final mount
  5. critterstuffr

    critterstuffr New Member

    Not sure if your comment was directed to me or not. The anchoring i was speaking of is the points where the spine and esophagus leave the head not the areas between the head and the breast, as you stated they both move a bunch. Just wanted to clarify.
  6. RichMO

    RichMO Well-Known Member

    There are basically only 2 major bones in the neck that provide movement "Atlas and Axis". It makes no difference in the bird head and what is carved out at the base. My suggestion is to get a reference picture of a bird head and neck then make the had and neck junction based on that. You may have to remove more of the head material and or shape the foam neck.
  7. If you purchased the heads from Matuska, why not contact them.I am sure the would be able to answer your question,or put you in contact with cory.
  8. This isn't a Matuska head but I have used one before and I know what you are talking about but I cannot quite figure out the dilemma. This is how I do all my necks now and I find it helpful for placement, shape, and length.
    *Note, this picture was taken before I blended the head/neck junction but you get the idea...