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First Reproduction

Discussion in 'Molding and Casting' started by JWShadley, Oct 21, 2013.

  1. JWShadley

    JWShadley New Member

    Looking to do my first mold and cast. I have been looking at Smooth-On and have found I like the method using Mold Max 30 and cast with Smooth Cast 320. My only concern is shipping to Alaska this time of year. I know the shipping is going to be really bad, being as I am sure it is hazmat coming by boat up here, but the major concern I have is the temperatures this time of year. I know some of their products are freeze sensitive. With that in mind, is it possible to make the mold using RTV silicone followed by a fiberglass mother mold and then ship the Smooth Cast 320 once the temperatures warm back up? I know I can get the mold materials locally, so I was thinking that might be a good alternative. I just don't know if RTV silicone is an acceptable alternative. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. You should be fine with a tin cure silicone...just let it warm up to room temp before you mix and use.

  3. JWShadley

    JWShadley New Member

    Vince, please forgive the obviously stupid question, but the red RTV silicon that comes in a tube, is that tin cure? Is that stuff even suitable for molding or only for making gaskets on vehicles? Thanks for your response.
  4. I thought you wanted to use mold max 30....it is a tin cure and can be shipped in cold temps....it just has to be brought back to room temp 72 degrees before using. I'm not sure if the stuff that comes in the tube is or is not...the viscosity between the two is much different also...but if you are going to get serious about molding and casting use the good stuff and don't take short cuts. Look at this link below it will tell you how temp changes your material. http://www.smooth-on.com/faq_display.php?faq_id=38
  5. JWShadley

    JWShadley New Member

    Cool, I was worried about the temps being the big issue. That being said, since the temps will not be an issue, I will definitely go with the Smooth-On. Like anything else in life, anything worth doing is worth doing right. Thanks for all your help.
  6. tin cure silicone has a very short library life, this means when you make the mold it starts to deteriorate from day one. If your making molds that you plan on storing and using later, use a platinum silicone. good luck...Marshell
  7. Smooth on uses an exclusive catalyst in their tin cure silicones that allow a long library life.....http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/Mold_Max_Series_TB.pdf If you try and ship platinum cure silicones in the cold temps that you are talking about and they freeze...they are not going to work. Make it out of a tin cure if you need it now then when temps rise get some platinum and remold one of your castings.
  8. dartondude

    dartondude New Member

    what are you molding?
  9. Trashfish

    Trashfish It's not easy being me!!

    A couple of interesting facts- Tin cure Silicone does not need at least 70 degrees to work properly, but it still can be used in a freezer if you desire.It is important to allow enough time to completely cure before using your mold. The most important part of the curing process comes from the humidity in the air.With that said, I use GI 1000 from Silicones inc. For the reason they have different catalyst for different humidity conditions also I never have seen a immediate break down using GI 1000, I have molds 5 years old and still use them. Other Tin cured silicones from other company's, I have had molds go bad in a shorter period of time.
  10. JWShadley

    JWShadley New Member

    Sorry for the delayed response, things have been crazy lately. Thanks for all the advice. In response to Dartondude's question, I am going to attempt a 46.5" moose rack. I know, awful big undertaking for my first project, but it is a case of good hunter vs bad hunter, where my first moose conveniently got claimed by someone else after I called it in and dropped it. Oh well. Golden opportunity to expand my horizons and like they say, go big or go home. I got ahold of Smooth-On and found out the temperatures will not be the issue I thought they would be, and apparently their products (with the exception of mold release) are not haz-mat, so I will have no problem getting it here (besides having to cut off an arm to pay for shipping). I ordered the materials and they should be here any day now. Any guesstimates on what the volume of the rack will be? I ordered 3 of the one gallon kits (will make 6 gallons total) of the Smooth Cast 320. Hopefully that will be enough. Again, thanks for all the advice.

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  11. I've found that if I weigh the original item, the rack, then multiply it by 85% that will give me the total weight of the project, divide it by 2 and that will be the amount of A and the amount of B to use in your pour. I also pour only one side at a time, use a bolt in the end to bond to the skull cap, pouring it last. hope that helps. here is a 70 inch rack I recently finished... Marshell
  12. JWShadley

    JWShadley New Member

    Thanks for the pointers Marshell. That is one nice moose rack. A beast for sure! How much material did that one take, if you happen to remember off the top of your head? I am planning on using fiberglass for my mother mold. Will that work or do I need to get some gel coat?
  13. each side was about 4400 grams of A and 4400 of B, 3300 is about a gallon, so I'm thinking without the skull
    2 2/3 gallon of A and of B to pour both sides.
    since your making a RTV mold you don't need a gel coat on the inside of the fiberglass jacket. Good Luck....Marshell
  14. JWShadley

    JWShadley New Member

    Awesome, I should be good then. I got three of the one gallon kits (makes a total of 6 gallons), so comparatively speaking, I should have enough. Thanks for all the help and I will post updates of how it turns out.