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Artificial European Skull Mount ....

Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by Frank from PAA, Dec 4, 2013.

  1. I have done quite a few euro skull mounts, but never an artificial skull mount. Any feedback on the slotted skull vs. the skull with pedicles. I am concerned about the pedicle mount .... getting the antlers mounted at the correct angle. My problem with the slotted would be hoping to match the original skull to the plastic.
     
  2. Lone Wolf AK

    Lone Wolf AK Lone Wolf Taxidermy and Wildlife Artistry

    I've never done a deer, but I have done elk, caribou and moose. I personally prefer the "slotted" forms, and it's not that hard to blend/texture some apoxie sculpt after mounting. A little off-white paint blending can finish things off. I used the "pedicle" style on moose sheds, and it was a pain (mainly due to the size/weight of the antlers).

    Just make sure your client knows that no matter how good you are at finish work, it's still going to look fake -- because it is! :)

    The caribou form I used was really crappy, as the nasal area was very asymmetric.

    Attached are some pix of moose, caribou, and elk. PM me if you need more info...
     

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  3. Thank you and you helped tremendously. I also feel that I would have more control going with the slotted. The photos look great for being artificial skulls.
     
  4. I just posted something about this in the beginners section for someone the other day. I've never tried the pedicle style just slotted. Get your skull cap set as close as possible and blend seams with apoxie sculpt. A light dusting of spray paint to blend colors. Yes they are fake but they don't have to look it. Spend a little time with a dremel on some details and scuff that ugly shiney plastic. They can come out pretty good.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    I prefer the slotted skulls as well. I use Bondo/Cabosil mixture to build up under the skull cap before screwing it down to the form and then Apoxie Sculpt to contour the cap with the form. I paint mine with Kilz and when dried, coat it again with Elmer's Glue.

    For the pedicel mounts, the best way I've found is to use wooden slats on the antlers. I criss-cross the antlers with the slats and duct tape them into the spread and position I want. I make a slotted hole in the antler to allow me to push them down over the rods, fill them with epoxy paste and then position them on the skull. I can hold them for about 5 minutes until the epoxy starts to cure. Then I take Apoxie Sculpt to fill any gaps and contour the skull area to teh pedicel.
     
  6. George, is Elmer's Glue your final coat?
     
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    It is for me. It gives a good "satin tone" to the entire mount.
     
  8. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    The thing I like about the old guys who were doing taxidermy during the last years that mammoths roamed North America is that they have methods that make you go "WHAT THE..?". I'm working on skulls right now and I gotta try that Elmer's glue trick. George could right a book on old methods that are still relevant today.
     
  9. I have a set of antlers that are broken basically like sheds What measurements do you use when ordering an artificial WT skull ? I see like 5"x 12" but it doesn't say what to measure.
     
  10. Thanks again for the help. The slotted skull, primer and Elmer's glue made this an easy task. The customer loved it.
     

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