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Discussion in 'Bird Taxidermy' started by Houndog, Jan 21, 2014.
Im curious to know what everyones techniques are for attaching an artificial duck head.
Again, did you check the tutorials? Im 100% positive Wingman has a wingtip about that very thing...
Depends on the bird being worked on, but for sake of discussion and that most/many of the birds i work on are of average Mallard size, drill a hole roughly 3/16-ish in diameter and roughly an inch-ish or so deep. Bend the end of the neck wire over to roughly match the one inch-ish depth, fill the hole with lowtemp hotglue, insert bent neck wire and hold in place until set enough to handle it...
Thats how knave done it for years but when positioning the head it will break loose
I will run mine all the way through the head. Carve an appropriate size groove down the back of the head, clip the wire and bend back and into the groove. Hot glue or caulk as normal and it wont break loose. I also carve out the brain cavity and neck junction so that my artificial neck has a seat to push into.
?? On an Artificial head ??
I bend a loop at the end of the wire and set it into the hot glue as mentioned earlier. Let it harden up . Ive never had a head loosen up using this method. Are you sure your hot glue was totally set up ?
I USE HOT GLUE AND UNLESS YOU ARE PLANNING TO PLAY WITH THE DUCK AFTER YOU MOUNT IT - IF DONE RIGHT - IT WILL NEVER COME OFF!
I drill about 3/8 hole in the back of the head about an inch deep. Bend my neck wire back to form a loop as long as the hole. Fill the hole with Bondo put the wire in the head and use a piece of tape to hold the head in place. While the Bondo is kicking I work on the tail. Once the Bondo is set start moving the skin over the head and attaching it to the base of the bill. When that is done the Bondo is nice and hard and I can move the head and neck into position.
I do the same, using a 3/8" paddle bit to drill a hole about 1 1/2" into the head. Then, turn the bird head down, and bend the neck wire into a "U" so that it will snugly slide into the hole and hold even without glue. This little bit of "spring" in the wire keeps the head in place until the glue sets. After test fitting, I remove the head, fill the hole with glue, slide the head onto it, and allow the glue to totally cool before attempting to adjust it. I sincerely believe I would tear the bird to pieces trying to pull the head off after the glue sets. If for some reason you wanted to remove the head, use a heat gun to heat the head and re-warm the glue so the head can slide off.