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Do i have too high of expectations?

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by 8Point, Jan 22, 2014.

  1. 8Point

    8Point Member

    This is my first year of taking in customers. I have 1 out the door and have a hand full drying. I self tan and am an anal nervous person. I just came upstairs from my work space and am very upset... it seems like every deer that I do ends up having something wrong with it. I have one trying (on 3rd week) And I just noticed that the seam up back of neck is streching about 1/4" and the stitching is exposed.it is a short hair cape so it is visible. I just put some epoxy in the gap and tryed to smooth what hair i could over it.... then i looked at another one that is finished and noticed that the hide is pulling from the base of the antlers about 3/16"...... i feel like i work so hard to be detail kriented and not cut corners but in the end it still seems that there is always something that causes a flaw.... am I too picky? Are thee common problems or just common for crappy taxidermists?
  2. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    it all comes with the package. the more you do the better you get. at least that's what I here.lol. hang in there.maybe your trying to hard. relax and live. stay on it. its good to be picky. but it will also tare you apart. one day you'll wake up and say to your self. that's not half bad. good luck. we have all been there.

  3. 8Point

    8Point Member

    Thanks tem. Hard to believe a stupid deer could get me down... tomorrows a new day....
  4. A couple of tips that helped me. First get some pro 1 hide paste. It is better than anything I have used. Haven't heard anyone say anything bad about it ever. You won't regret it. Are you using a worm of apoxie sculpt wrapped around under your antler burrs? This will help the hide stay up to the burrs. Just press the hide in firmly. As far as the stitching goes. Be sure to thin your edges where the incision is. The thinner the hide the less it will shrink. I use a short 7 incision. Only one piece of thread this way. Keep your stitches closer together and as you sew work some hide paste up under the sewed seam every few inches as you work your way down the cape. sometimes I put a good size glob of paste on the forehead and as I sew I work it down under the seam by pressing my hand on the hide and sliding it back down the neck. You will learn tricks as you go. Hope this helps. I have felt all the same things you expressed. Hang in there.
  5. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    You're not being too picky. Hide pulling is definitely not something you should live with. You need to troubleshoot the problem. Tanning, hide paste, sowing technique, and babysitting while drying are the areas to look at. Tanning and paste most likely culprits. Also, in the future, rehydrate the pulled area and resow, or glue around the burrs. It's a process, you'll get there.
  6. NJTrapper

    NJTrapper Member

    Seems to me, you have a few things going on. You say you are self tanning. What type of tan? The shrinkage on the seam makes me think, you are not shaving the cape enough. The thicker the hide, the more shrinkage you will get, pulling the stitches. What type of hide paste are you using? The shrinkage around the burrs, again that could be the thinness of the cape. Try building up the pedicle under the burr with apoxy sculpt and roll the skin under the burr, add a good amount of hide paste on them. If your not thinning the cape enough, chances are, your not getting the eye skin, thinned and split enough. One thing leads to another.

    The old saying," thin is in ". Skife all the facial features, split the eyes to the oil glands, skife the skin that lays under the burrs. Skife an area the size of a softball around each eye.

    Instead of self tanning, try sending a cape out to a tannery and go from there. You may find you can produce a better product from that.
  7. duxdown

    duxdown New Member

    There are fixes ;D. Dont give the customer a epoxyed up deer back. Re-hydrate and re-sew. I fixed 2 that came out of another shop last year and they swore they would never go back. Ok what are you sewing with? I used 50# fire line. Get you some hide paste in there ,yes it sucks getting it in the hair but it will come out. Sew it tight and if your tanning your own get it thin enough. You can use mesh and pin the crap out of it to down the seam. I don't by the way, if you do it right you don't need to. Ok on the the burr issues. Take you a roll of epoxy clay and come down from the burr on the fresh racks you have and put you a 1/4 bead all the way around and press it in and let it dry. This gives you a pocket to pull the hide into when you mount. I have even used some gel super glue in there when I pull tight and start sewing, but some hide paste works two just make sure and thin down. Your hide is shrinking so you have to minimize that by thinning and glueing. Dont fret your learning, heck were all still learning and there are dozens of ways to do each thing. There is tons of reading on this subject here and there. Buy those things will help. Glue glue glue sew tight keep the hair out and watch it and push it together every day till your sure. Let me know if I can help you, you can even call me if you need to. Good luck and remember what I said about letting it out of your shop if your not at least mostly happy with it.
  8. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

    I preach this all the time because it is a fact that technique is where we all struggle. All the hide paste in the world, all the ropes of epoxy around the burrs, all the tightest stitches will not correct bad technique, badly fitted capes and improper positioning. Like you and so many others, I fought these same issues for years until I was taught the proper techniques in avoiding these issues. Thank You Bill Yox. But it's true. When you study with someone who teaches you how to avoid these pitfalls, you learn that very little hide paste is actually needed, that nothing other than a dab of hide paste is all that is needed around an antler burr, and stitching is nothing more than lacing up a pair of sneakers.

    No your expectations are not too high. Your technique knowledge is still too low. Once you learn the proper techniques your expectations will actually increase even higher. Now you can continue to fight these things, and with any luck you may conquer them on your own with many days of frustration ahead of you, or you could make an investment that would put you on the fast track by studying with Yoxie or some one else that has this technique issue down to a science.
  9. quest

    quest Member

    All good answers. If I can I sew my capes up before I mount them leaving enough room to slide the cape over the form then attach my antler I've found this way I have a tighter stitch and less hair between the stitches..
  10. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

    I can see your point if a long incision is what you have to work with, but why not just do a very short incision to start with? Just curious. My incisions are never more than 6 to 8 inches to start with unless I have something come in from an outfitter where a long incision was done. But if I'm the one capping it, I'm not going to make more work for myself.
  11. pikes peak

    pikes peak 2011 deer i mounted

    work for your self .I can mount the antlers and prep the hide by the time it takes you to try to stretched that cape over that form and mount the antlers . mount the antlers and make every short stitches on the back of the cape . brush the hide as many times to not show the seam
  12. dc taxidermy

    dc taxidermy Me and My Baby's senior picture

    Do a burr to burr and have very little sewing period..I only have about four inches to sew. I do a V cut. If I get a cape from another taxi that is a short Y. I sew then pull the hide back up over the antlers and push hide paste all up under the stitches then pull the cape and staple to back. Remember to leave a little slack in the skin. I have found that most drumming and pulled stitches are the skin being pulled to tight over the form. If you leave a little slack then you have room to shrink a little and the hidepaste has time to dry. You can also place some screen wire over the seem (and pin it down good) till it drys.....DC
  13. dc taxidermy

    dc taxidermy Me and My Baby's senior picture

    I doubt that, I can mount the antlers prep the form in just a few minutes. I normally mount 6 a day on an average day. I am on # 90 of this years deer. Less sewing is a lot faster....DC
  14. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

    Here we go with that 440 high voltage guy again. Number 90? Holy crap. When you get done for the year, I could use you for about 10 days. LOL Wouldn't that be nice to do all of my deer for the year in 10 days. ;)
  15. dc taxidermy

    dc taxidermy Me and My Baby's senior picture

    Antlerman, I should be done in about three or four weeks. Then I will be doing ducks..I just set everthing up like an assembly line. Make it Easy..deer ,ducks, turkeys, whatever you are working on....Tim Jordan taught me this......DC
  16. First of all you may not be shaving the hide down good enough. you may also be using to big of a form. Are you tanning or using DP? DP capes will have a lot more shrinkage then a tanned cape. When I first started I had some of these problems and started trying new things. The biggest thing that helped me was getting my hides much thinner and going with the bur to bur cut. No need for anything around the antler bur but a small roll of clay to replace the meat that was taken away and like Antlerman said a small amount of glue. A tight stitch and it will not go any where.
  17. critterstuffr

    critterstuffr New Member

    Here's a trick or technique I use. I full cut down the back of my deer. Apply your hide paste to the face and around the neck approx 6 inches down. use pins to hold in place. sew up your antler cut,set the ears and taxi and tuck the eyes,nose and mouth. Fold the skin forward apply paste to the rest of the form. I put it on heavy down the seem line in the back. take a plastic grocery bag and lay it down the seam with the loop handles sticking out past the shoulders on the back of the form. Pull the skin up and pin it in place to hold it while you sew. Sew the seam all the way down, when done grab the handles and pull the bag out. What you get is plenty of glue under the seam and not much if any hide paste on the cape. Small stitches are a must as stated. Just a thought.
  18. 8Point

    8Point Member

    Guys I don't even know what to say.... I can't believe how helpful everyone is...!!! Thank you soooo much for sharing! You have NO idea how much I appreciate everyone taking the time to help me. I got into taxidermy because I love deer and art and have the utmost appreciation for quality work. Which is why I tame everything in from you
    ... you all seem so savvy and helpful. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  19. antlerman

    antlerman NTA Life Member #0118

    Side note

    I see where pikes peak changed his name to 440 volt. Now that's some funny chit right there. I guess he couldn't stand it that I call Dc the guy with 440 volts running thru his veins. This place is more comical at times than the Three Stooges. Thanks for the laugh peak. That was great.
  20. 8Point

    8Point Member

    Guys to answer a few of your questions....
    - I am using McKenzie tan cream and paste. I follow the McKenzie tan process as well. That's all I know....
    - What is DP??
    - What is burr to burr? Is that the same as a 7 cut?
    - I already took some of your advice today I shaved my next hide as thin as I could...