1. Welcome to Taxidermy.net, Guest!
    We have put together a brief tutorial to help you with the site, click here to access it.

thawing frozen capes and whole animals

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by kickstart59, Feb 6, 2014.

  1. kickstart59

    kickstart59 Member

    179
    0
    I do taxidermy in my 16x16 shed. Although I have electricity I don't have any heat out there. I guess I could put an electric heater in there. So I know it has to be above freezing to thaw but my question is can I spray STOP ROT on the hair side while its thawing to protect against hair slippage?
    Also should I start skinning as soon as I can move the skin?
    Thanks for your advice
     
  2. I use stop rot , i spray it mainly around the eyes, nose and ears during the thawing process. Always make sure to wipe off excess blood on your animals as it thaws though! Any blood left sitting on the animal is the first place slippage begins. I start skinning my animals when i can bend the legs fairly easy and on shoulder deer i start when i can move the bease of the ears easily.
     

  3. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    Stop rot isn't necessary on a freshly frozen healthy specimen. It doesn't hurt, but slipping won't be a problem if your hide is processed immediately upon thawing. Personally, I'd save the stop rot for questionable hides. Putting a heater in your shed is fine, but don't put it directly on your hide. Also, take it out of the plastic bag while it thaws.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  4. Connie1953

    Connie1953 New Member

    11
    0
    I have a full body Bobcat that is frozen solid. With the temp. Being in the 80-90 degree range, what is the safest way to thaw this creature. I do have air in my building. Another question... My main problem with everything is the hair slipping in spots around the face and ears. I spray stop slip on everything. I use a Rinehart tanning cream thinking that might not be a good one to use. Truthfully I am at the point of only doing turkey's, never have any problems with them!


    Sent from my iPad using Ohub Campfire
     
  5. Denton Shearin

    Denton Shearin 2009-Breakthrough Award, McKenzie Award,

    If you can get approval form your better half (if you have one) you might consider finding an out of the way spot in your home where you can thaw things out. When I first started doing taxidermy some 30+ years ago, my circumstances were similar to yours, Kickstart. I was very fortunate in that I had a VERY understanding and supportive wife. What I did back then was this; if I had a bobcat to thaw out, I would take a 20 gallon plastic container, lay a clean towel in the bottom and then lay the bobcat on that. I had a nice spot in our utility room where I could leave the Bobcat overnight to thaw. I did not put the top on the box, but sometimes I would lay a large towel over the box as a cover. Like Jared said, I only use stop rot on questionable hides. On most life-size small mammals I will spray the nose, eyes and ears with denatured alcohol diluted 50/50 with water.
     
  6. duxdown

    duxdown New Member

    I spritz every cat and canine with pure denture alcohol as soon as they come in if not frozen and if so I spritz heavy during thawing and never had a issue
     
  7. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

    2,462
    23
    All of my small game, coyote, bobcat, fox, etc. that comes in frozen either goes in freezer until I'm ready, then in the evening I hang what I'm going to work on the next day by a back leg from ceiling hook and rope loop. Next morning or day its skinning time, no problems, fully thawed. You don't need stop rot on everything. I work in basement so its always room temp. If you can move the skin, start skinning, just be careful as its easier to cut holes when partially frozen. Heater in winter, yes or you will be cold.
     
  8. I take them out of the freezer and lay them on the floor of my shop. Then I do the towel thing also. Bears take 1 1/2 to two days and I flip the hide over ocassionally as the top seems to thaw faster. I cover with thick bath towels. Smaller animals can be ready overnight and I also usually start when I can spread the legs. With the towels even the bears are partially frozen in the center. I have not tried hanging by a leg but that sounds like it would work well and thaw evenly. The stop rot I save for the ears and around the face.
     
  9. kickstart59

    kickstart59 Member

    179
    0
    Thanks for all your help guys
     
  10. I'm lucky to have a supportive partner - I use the bathtub! Easy to clean if there is any blood or anything, and we never use it.
     
  11. Mike Powell

    Mike Powell Well-Known Member

    One little point of reference...Stop Slip is basically a glue that helps hold down areas that are already slipping. It will NOT prevent slippage. Stop Rot on the other hand, will stop the deterioration process. If in doubt, use it...and you can use it on the hair side as well. Predators are particularly susceptible to slipping, perhaps because of the bacteria in their system from eating other animals.