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Best Fleshing machine for beginners?

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by Courtney_Laredo, Mar 22, 2014.

  1. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Hammer, I can't believe you said that. I've had my Rawhide machine for about 20 years now and I had an original Dakota for about 20 before that. In all that time, I've not only shaved hides with them, but I've actually fleshed with them. They are called "fleshing machines", aren't they. when I'm fleshing green hides, I cover them with corncob grit and I can shave them easily do to "the blue". And remember, that's a GREEN hide, not a pickled one or a salted one. The Whizard was designed to assist butchers in mass production/production work and I'm sure it does a fantastic job. HOWEVER, designing it as an application for taxidermy work is exactly the same mindset that brought us the "miniflesher". I've done boars and beavers along with foxes and buffalo on my Rawhide and have yet to see a reason to spend that kind of money on something like that. But that's a personal choice of mine as I'd sooner spend money on guns myself. BUT FOR A BEGINNER, this tool is simply a waste of time and money.
     
  2. RichMO

    RichMO Well-Known Member

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    George in 100% on.... The pro may cost but it does it all. I've seen green hides, pickled hides completed on the unit. It does the nose, eyes and lips when in the hands of one experienced.....
     

  3. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    I have a Dakota Pro and a Whizzard. Before that I had a mini-flesher. Although you can flesh with a flesher, it was too difficult for me to master and I didn't want to lose a bunch of hides learning. I could flesh by and, but decided that since I do so many hogs, bison, elk, and steer, that it was worth it for me to get a Whizzard. I paid around $1500 or so and it has saved me so much time in fleshing. You cannot do any shaving with one though. If I could buy only one, it would be the Dakota Pro. If you are only doing a few mounts a year, don't even get that; just sent them out to a tannery and let them do the work. I decided it was worth it for me to same time and so that I would enjoy taxidermy and would spend as little time as possible doing the part I don't like so I could do the part I do like. Weigh all your options. If you can flesh by hand fine, you don't need a Whizzard. I have a lot of soft tissue damage in my wrists and it saves me a lot of pain and time. The same with the Dakota Pro. I don't think either one is a gimmick, but are tools that you can decide to use or decide it's not worth the money. They both work great.
     
  4. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Boarhunter you're talking to guys hitching about McKenzie gouging them for shipping charges. Do you REALLY think they'll go fir a $1500 vegetable peeler?
     
  5. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    In the last couple of months I got in 9 hogs. For me it's worth it. For most it wouldn't be.
     
  6. verne

    verne Well-Known Member

    Look`s like it work`s ; But at that price , it won`t work . ;D
     
  7. Some of you know by now I like my mini flesher. I use it to flesh the entire cape just because it's more comfortable. For final shaving I use my Eager Beaver. I could use my Eager Beaver to raw flesh but I can't split the eye, nose, and peel the ear butts like I can with my mini. There were doubters out there and I posted my videos and "how to". Could someone post a video of splitting everything with a wheel flesher. I'm always open to new ideas but I haven't seen anyone take this task on, even the professionals I've been around. Most will do the body and face area and resort to the knife to open the rest up. I don't think there are a whole lot of people that can split everything and still remove 99% of the flesh around the eyes, nose, lips, and ears as quick as I can with a mini. So can someone post a video showing all that with a wheel flesher. This is a learning site so that would be great. I posted my videos for those who can't afford a wheel flesher and opt to buy a mini for a couple of hundred dollars. The downside is having the air compressor that keeps up with one. I already had the air compressor so it was a bonus for me. People use different tools to accomplish the same job. Just because one person has the their way or wrong way attitude doesn't mean this should influence your decision. It's what's best for you.
     
  8. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Sergeant, neither do I deny not being a fan of the miniflesher. But I, too, couldn't afford better and was one of the first guys to guy one. I was also one of the first people on this site to give mine away for the cost of shipping. I never fleshed the eyes or lips with ANY flesher as I saw no purpose in cutting extra holes that would need to be patched. I have yet to see anyone with any flesher of any type get out the oil glands in the eyelashes. So the need of me posting a video would be purposeless. If a beginner can't afford one of the low end fleshers, I honestly don't know how he's going to be able to better afford a miniflesher along with a 3 HP compressor with a minimum 30 gallon air tank on it. And even that is going to run that compressor hot. I had a 5 HP with a 50 gallon tank that would keep the flesher buzzing but the compressor ran constantly.
     
  9. margip

    margip Member

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    I'm with George on this one. I've watched Searge in the videos and I have to say that he does quite a bit of intricate work with the mini. BUT there is still hand work that is going to have to be done to finish the job around the lips , nose and eyes. Being in the wholesale cape fleshing business for the past 22 years I've tried just about every tool and technique out there and have found for me that it's best to go ahead and do the hand work around the eyes, nose, lips and ears first, then finish with the fleshing machine. NO WAY could I ever get the kind of job with any fleshing tool or machine that I can get with the fleshing machine, and yes they are for fleshing and not just shaving.
     
  10. Go Dakota pro works great for me ....well built machine sometimes its worth spending a little more money the first time .instead of regretting it .realizing you should of bought the better machine in the long run.....
    \
     
  11. If you are just starting out consider sending your capes to a reputable tannery like Wildlife Galleries or Carolina Fur dressing. You won't get them back super thin but they will be very mountable.
     
  12. justin_b

    justin_b Just sayin...

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    Read the reviews on the top fleshing machines out there, save up, and get one of the best. You will be money ahead in the long run.
     
  13. ortegageno

    ortegageno Active Member

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    Ok George, are you telling me that the $350.00 Dakota I have sitting in the corner for the last 5 years collecting dust could be FLESHING green hides especially those pain in the ass Gemsbok and elk that have one inch of fat on them. Well hell I have been doing them with a knife all these years and taking about 5 hours to flesh, turn and split each one. I have 2 more Gemsbok left to flesh, I'm gonna set that machine up and give it a try and maybe I can finally get my return on the machine LOL . Is there anything else I can rub on the flesh instead of corn cob grit as I don't have any on hand. Thanks for the advise.
    Regards, Geno
    I had originally bought the machine to try tanning my <30 capes a year in house but that has not happened as of yet.
     
  14. justin_b

    justin_b Just sayin...

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    For rough fleshing a green hide I swear to god you can't get anything better than a good beam and a Necker 600.
     
  15. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    You'd better leave God out of this one and try a machine. A good sharp and tuned blade can do twice the work with half the effort.

    Corncob grit or hardwood sawdust are best. Some people use salt or DP, but these are abrasive and corrosive materials that wear your blade down. I avoid them.
     
  16. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Are you saying you rub corncob grit into a green hide before fleshing it on the wheel? Maybe that's why it seems so hard to me to do a green cape.
     
  17. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    That's what I'm saying. It dries that surface "slime" and gives you a defining mark as to where you've shaved and where you haven't. It's exceptional and works well on truly thin skins like foxes and bobcats.
     
  18. lrc1492

    lrc1492 Member

    Thanks George I am defiantly going to try that.