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Mold of the week in pictures

Discussion in 'Molding and Casting' started by Glen Conley, Jun 17, 2007.

  1. I have a smaller Pressure Pot that I need to set up for casting, Its a Good Pot I Just need to get it rigged.

    I guess thats what I meant by making it, lol. Welding one seems like a Bad Idea ;D BOOM!
     
  2. boarhunter67

    boarhunter67 Well-Known Member

    Jermh1, those are cool looking horns. I have made several bison horns and they take me forever because I have to constantly rotate the mold and do 2-3 coats to ensure they are hollow. Your horns look hollow. How did you make them that way?
     

  3. jermh1

    jermh1 Member

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    jknuth
    I got some pics on how I adapted my lid for molding use,
    [​IMG]

    I know its hacked but I had some tube going through the middle, with some strange metric threading from the 1950s, so i used a jar lid on the inside, sealed with oil clay and poured with smoothcast300, figured if it wanted to blow it would have to squish the lid inside out through a hole half its diameter. the fitting on the lid is femle so I can pull the supply off and leave it under pressure.

    [​IMG]

    boarhunter67
    these horns are solid, just too small to make hollow, I drill them out so they can recive the skull cap. I do have some tricks for the hollow horns, actually just got my motor controller for my makeshift roto caster, so will post some pics when I get it all hooked up (its crude but functional) currently its working of my drill which moves too fast even with the slightest trigger pull on the low setting.
    jeremy
     
  4. jermh1

    jermh1 Member

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    Just finished this set up, molds have been around for almost a year, but due to their size I had to come up with a single axis roto caster to cast them. 39in straight line and 50+ around the curve 12in bases I would guess solid they would take close to a gallon each. they were brushed on one moldmax30 the other rebound 25, had to do a brush on because the horns were stuck on the skull , I didn't want to have a mold seam, I wanted each horn as an independent mold. Plastic is smoothcast 325 with some brown and white tint horns are foam filled except for 2-3 in of the base to provide a good anchor for the 5/8 hex rods to make them removable. even though the horns are brown plastic I still painted with rich brown just if there is a scratch it wont show up like white.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Probably ready for some mold pics

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I made a simple but effective rotocaster with some pillow block bearings some 3/4 unistrut (in the electrical dept Home Depot), some 1in rod and 2x4s. the mold is mounted in the frame with some spring nut things which i break the springs off and just use the threaded square washer, and some 1x1 hardwood. one end is chocked up on blocks with a steel dowel through the base 2x4 into to side block this allows it to pivot so I can lift the end to direct plastic flow. then its just figuring how much plastic to add and where to angle it and how fast. I used a drill on low and it was a little too fast+ if it has an electric brake it gets real ugly and hurts. I rigged up a 30amp dc motor controller to a power window motor hooked up to my 18v drill battery, but burned it out on my 5th horn by hooking it up to the wrong terminal on the battery, 2 seconds and it was fried. I will post some more pics of it working and info on how to make one, once my new controller gets here

    [​IMG]

    these are some of my experimental castings, they got the bugs out of the process, the ones I finished only needed a pea sized piece of epoxy putty to fill in a few bubbles. and check out the bench the horns are on, I just pull out the pivot pin and the whole roto rig stands in the corner or can be laid flat on a shelf, the base which is only on one side just gets clamped to the table.

    Jeremy
     
  5. Glen Conley

    Glen Conley KARMA GOOSE R.I.P. 2006-2006

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    Here's three out of my latest round of molds. These are all molds made off of my original sculptures.

    I was starting to get the sensation that these would never get finished. Things started as normal, then we got hit with an ice storm, then a blizzard in March (that ain't supposed to happen here, let alone in March) I was actually snowbound for a day, then another ice storm. Then all that thawed to the point a feller could get around, and then I got a good dose of the flu. That had me laid up for a couple of days, and then half speed for a few days after the fact.

    Half way through the project, time to order more material. Apparently resin sources were switched. The new stuff was catalyzing hotter than new love. The heat was transferred through the whole mass of resin and glass to the point all my primer and lacquer sealer was fused to the interior of the mold cavity. Nothing 50+ hours couldn't fix........................

    The photo identified as 6 3-4 x 18 is the mold made off of the sculpture in the molding jig at this address:
    http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,36548.60.html

    Something to think about as you look at these photos.

    You are looking down inside a mold cavity, a concave. Your mind recognizes a deer. Your mind processes that and does not accept the deer as a concave, all minds know that a deer is a convex three dimensional form. So you are now seeing the deer in the mold as a three dimensional convex subject.

    The question I leave you with, is seeing really believing?
     
  6. Glen Conley

    Glen Conley KARMA GOOSE R.I.P. 2006-2006

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    The photo identified as 7 x 16 head is the mold of the black primered head you saw at this address (same page as above).
    http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,36548.60.html
     
  7. bill@hogheaven

    [email protected] New Member

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    I see it as concave not convex but the batman logo looks like tonsils hanging to me.
     
  8. This is a great thread with a wealth of knowledge displayed for archive !
    I have just completed an 18" Brook trout reproduction. Shown below are a few pics of it.

    Brook Trout head being prepared for a one pour, open mouth, full detail, cup mold.
     
  9. Here is a pic of the casted head from the mold.
     
  10. This is a pic of the cast parts of the reproduction brook trout.
     
  11. This pic is the assembled Brook trout reproduction. The head and body were cast with IE 3030 from Innovative Polymers.
    The fins were cast with Epo-Grip Fin Magic. The eyes are hand painted flints, set in the head, before attaching to the body,
    to allow for ease of proper eye set.
    I will do a little more finishing work to the fin junctions, but the replica is assembled.
     
  12. Here is a top view of 18" Reproduction Brook trout.
    If anyone is interested, I do offer this repro. for sale. It will come unassembled, to allow for your eye set and fin set to suit.
     
  13. Craig W

    Craig W New Member

    I made a mold of a turkey head for my fan mounts.There was a couple good ones on the market but I think they were dicontinues so I thought I would make my own.I cant wait to paint a couple.They have pretty decent detail.
     
  14. Craig W

    Craig W New Member

    Another pic of the same head
     
  15. Glen Conley

    Glen Conley KARMA GOOSE R.I.P. 2006-2006

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    Once upon a time when the Forum was in the old format, a guy that went by cur claimed some of his colleagues sculpted with, and made polyester resin molds off of Permoplast. Mental notes were made. Permoplast would be easier on the fingers and joints, and it would have to work up faster being so soft. I got me some Permoplast.

    It seems we guys that sculpt over a skull for an armature wind up with about fifty hours into a deer head ready for production mold making. That’s a pretty good time investment that no one wants to loose.

    I take a ½” copper coupling and set a 3/8” nut in each end and then anchor that in a skull cavity. I can then use a 3/8” all-thread rod through a piece of pipe and clamp the head to a 2 x 4. Makes a cheap and fast sculpting stand.

    Well I take my Permoplast and pay my time dues and sculpt myself a deer head.

    I’ve got my deer head all sculpted and ready for mold making. Got a problem. The Permoplast is so soft it can’t be handled. My partner calls it putty clay because of it’s latex caulk-like properties. I should have asked cur what his colleagues were sculpting with the stuff.

    I was a Boy Scout. Armed with dry wall screws, stripped 12 GA. copper wire, some masking and packing tapes, a few pieces of string, and some hardware cloth, I went to work.

    I used colored clay for the flange dam so I could see it to clean it off the seam line of the mold/sculpture union.

    At this time, I have the first layer of the print coat down. Things are working beautifully…..for now.

    I have in mind to make a hollow cast using body filler and polyester liquid resin so that I can fill the hollow part of the head with urethane foam. Once again in the days of the old format, Frank Kotula had described a fish head molding technique quite similar to what I have in mind to do. This had better work, Frank. Nina takes care of my light work in Pennsylvania.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. trapperfred

    trapperfred New Member

    any one do life size?
     
  17. Glen Conley

    Glen Conley KARMA GOOSE R.I.P. 2006-2006

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    Good news, Nina! You won’t have to karate chop Frank up into little pieces! Frank sez, “Phew!” Everything worked better than I had anticipated. I didn’t have to plunk the filled mold down into a bucket of hot water or nuttin’!

    I’ve had problems with shrinkage in the past with the body filler I use whenever I have gone to thicker applications. I might add that I used liquid resin mixed in with the body filler. This was a case of the shrinkage was an asset. I was really apprehensive about using body filler in a rigid polyester mold. No “give”, and no room for error, and I had one of those error things. The last inch and change of my seam line on the back skull was off center, creating a pretty good under cut. I had set that up right on top of bare bone, and had a hard time getting the sculpture out of the mold for starters. So when I made my first cast, I stayed back away from the under cut with my body filler.

    I made two mixes for each of the two mold halves, allowing the heat to totally dissipate before additional layering. I then bolted the two halves together and poured another mix down through the access hole I had in the back of the head. I used a wood paint stirrer to spread the body filler over the seam line to make my weld.

    Once the heat was gone, I opened the mold. The bottom side of the head had shrunk 1/8”, and the top of the head had shrunk just enough to break the bond to the mold. It took the slightest bit of help with a screwdriver to get the cast piece out of the mold.

    The first photo is of the newly opened mold with the cast still in the off side. The second photo shows the amount of shrinkage, it looks greater than 1/8”, so I had to measure the gap width.

    I did a second pour, but I kept working the filler/resin as it set up, and had not lost all of it’s heat. Shrinkage was minimal on that one, and I had to do a little more forceful persuasion with the screwdriver to free the cast piece of the mold.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Glen Conley

    Glen Conley KARMA GOOSE R.I.P. 2006-2006

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    Here’s a front/top view of the first molded head. It is much easier for ME to work with hard mediums. I can get good detail and definition that is going to stay in place, at least as much as can be expected with the materials we use in taxidermy. Clays just annoy the Hell out of me. These heads will get a free rise two part foam application in the hollow part of the head. That will make it easier for me to get a good job on that head and neck union as I connect heads and necks.
    This is a 7” n-e doe head. What’s that biggest doe cape you have in the freezer, Nina?
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    LOL oh well thanks Glen and sorry that Nina couldn't do it. I'm sure she was looking forward to that LOL. Glad it all work out fine Glen. Again nice work!
     
  20. Nina Lukaszewicz

    Nina Lukaszewicz Outdoor Dreams Taxidermy

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    Nice work Glen. The biggest doe cape I have is an early season bowkill from West Virginia measuring approx. 7" E-N" and 11" neck.