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Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by bonecreektaxidermy, May 27, 2014.
How do you prevent pull in the drying process? Push Pins? Very new, will post a 1st mount soon.
Make sure when you sew them up the skin is tight around the antler then I leave mine a couple days and watch it to make sure it doesn't pull but if it does I take some gel super glue squirt some of that around the bottom of the burr and taxi the skin back to where it should be. I don't usually have many that pull away from the burr but you might want to check to make sure your antlers aren't set too high either! hope that helps!
Here is some material on that subject.....
sometimes that could have something to do with the type of tan or tannery you are using.. a good tan should have very little shrinkage or pull.
Hmm. I've never found one like that I suppose. They ALL shrink to some degree.
For what it is worth this is how I solve the skin pulling away on all antlered and horned animals and rarely ever have a problem. First, your antlers must be set properly where the skin fits nicely without having to pull it up to fit the antler burr. Once you are sure the antlers are set properly put a small roll of critter clay around the antler burr being sure to leave room for the edge of the skin to go between the clay and the burr. I use the clay because it allows up to 4 days to push the skin up and help lock it in place as the glue dries. I then place Pro 1 Hide Paste around the burr getting it on the clay as well. I then take a tongue depressor with a glob of glue about half the size of a golf ball and place on the forehead of the manikin being sure to get it far enough back that it doesn't ooze out white I'm sewing. After sewing the cape up I take an awl and make sure my skin is pushed up tightly all the way around the antler burr. Then take your clay that's under the skin and push it up tightly around the burr. Take the glue you put in the forehead of the manikin and CAREFULLY, as to not push it down around your eyes, work it under the skin, pushing it around the forehead and under the incision as well as around the burrs. Stay on top of it for 3 days and you will not have this problem if you have done it correctly. Wish you success with your mount!
and this is my reasoning for using a "T" incision, or a burr to burr as I was recently shown. You've stretched the skin while removing it from the burrs. You've shaved the skin. You've removed some tissue and NOW you want the damn thing to fit back around the pedical without being loose or pulling away. Use my glue.....no...use mine!! LOL
Why don't you simply remove about a half an inch of skin from the back side of the cut?? The front hair covers over it and blends in very well. Apply some glue, stitch it up and FORGETABOUTIT! Nice and tight. The only comments I've ever gotten using this even in competition, is how nice and tight my skin is around the burrs.
It doesn't make any sense to put something squishy underneath when it takes away from the anatomy, and takes longer to set than it takes for the skin to dry. You want your skin tight around the pedical just as it was before. Squishy stuff does not keep the skin tight to the pedical. Where do you guys learn this chit?
Learned from some of the best and will continue with what I have proven to work. Rarely post on this site for this reason. Try to help someone and there are always a handful that want to smart off. Guess they have nothing better to do than sit around the computer all day!
Smart off? Its just one man talking to another man. Come ON folks, whats with all the hurt feelings in here lately? So what, he doesnt agree with you. You posted your opinion, he questions yours and adds his. Just tell him you wouldnt trim the skin, and be done with it, hahaha.
I say youre both right, but I like it this way better...build up what you removed with something that will quickly harden, add glue and then just zip it up. Provided it fits, most any glue with work here with little more technique than just that.
I build up with bondo (not an adhesive) and then super glue in place. Works 100% with both DP or tanned hides!
Ok then, don't trim the skin then. I've seen people make a band saw cut around the pedical underneath the burr to bed the skin in and that works as well. I've seen people build up with apoxie sculpt around the ped and let it set before attaching skin, and I suppose bondo would work just fine as well as long as it was hard and kicked. But squishy stuff? Not for me. This is a brand new person. Why add to their struggles with methods that are going to add to their struggles? You know on the back of the pedical where the skin follows the pedical from the burr tight down to the skull? Now you got them omitting that very important anatomy structure by applying squishy stuff. By introducing squishy stuff you got them headed down a path that they may not know they are going down. If it works for you,that's great. Don't stop doing it. But remember you are TEACHING here. Teach why you do it so they understand. You have yet to tell WHY you do it that way. At this point, I'm not even sure if you know WHY you do it that way. Just because so in so does it that way? Not good enough. Give them the reason, as I did. Sorry your feelings got hurt. But to call me a Smart Ass over THIS?.........LOL.........you ain't seen nothing yet friend. LOL
That's what I do too I cut about a half inch of skin on the one side of my Y incision, and be sure to do it to the same side on the other antler burr. it may take you a couple times to get it good a snug fit, but i feel this is a better way to do it IMO!
I use a framer's air gun , with 45 lbs of pressure and shoot 25 or thirty 16 penny nails around each antler. Wear safety glasses though in case a few ricoshas. Lol!
Joe Meder and Dennis Bein teaches a roll of sculpall around each burr, about the size of a pencil. Sew up, then make sure skin is tucked up under the burr like you want it and sqush the sculpall up from the outside of the skin, up toward the burrs. The sculpall will harden before the skin or glue dries, creating a ring for the skin to lock on to. Sure it will look "fuller", but didn't you remove some tissue while fleshing, thinning and meat and membrane off the scull? It does work. I got lazy and quit doing it and they pulled again. I started back and I like it, no problems. To each his own.
I do exactly like hfparker
Yes, I too was taught that by Joe Meder. I found that that method works better if you apply the sculpall ahead of time and let it set hard before mounting the skin. That way I know it's not going to move or sag when I walk away from it. I feel that if I have to babysit something, and I get distracted and all hell breaks loose, then there has to be a better way...........like the airgun perhaps. LOL
Can you explain why you prefer this method to this new person who is asking? Just because you do it doesn't explain why. I'm sure they would like to know.
I've used clay, plaster, bondo, and glued straight to the skull and burrs... Clay is faster and easier FOR ME. I bondo ears and use clay for ear butts so I like that it all ties together. I also like to be able to change the anatomy or look of everything after the skin is on. It works plain and simple along with all the others stated... Lots of ways to reach the same goal
Thank You Diesel. That's all I'm asking is for people to explain so others can learn.
At the risk of offending someone (spare me), no one taught me and no thoughts are original. I prep all my antlers a month after I hang them up. I roll epoxy putty into pencil sized rolls and wrap them around the burr with about a quarter inch gap. I smoosh down the front edge and let cure. When I mount, I use the SHORT "Y" (sorry Tim). Instead of sewing the tabs, my first stitches are one inch in. The second stitch is half inch in and the third is the tabs before going down the "Y". I cinch each set if stitches. When complete, I take a register and hold back the hair in front of the burr. A couple drops of superglue is my St. Christopher's medal.