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Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by Lonewolf_8126, Jul 10, 2014.
I am currently painting a blank for a customer who opted to eat his 5lbs brown trout
Keep in mind that you probably spent a whole week or two painting fish in school. For any of us, none of our first fish were any good! Pick ONE of your air brushes and stick with it. I tried starting out on the double that you have and I quit soon after. I found the single action easier. However, I'm sure if I would have stuck with whatever air brush I started with that I would have been fine. Also keep in mind that with the double you have now added another variable with paint flow. I understand you can set it like a single though. But, I'm not so sure that's the best advice if your choice is to stick with a double. But now you have: paint flow, air pressure, tip size, paint thinning and retarder, and paint type as all your variables. That's why I stated to go with known thin paints to start with when practicing to control ONE variable. Retarder is imperative with those paints you mentioned and I would add a good 10%...
I have to ask, Is rubbing alcohol used as a thinner? And what do you thin water based paints with, I would assume water or regular thinner
Yes, I thin mostly with rubbing alcohol. But, with WB paints you can thin with water or Windex too.
I use hydromist paints and a single action pash airbrush, i run 35 psi and i do just fine on my fish. Only time i have the spider web is with heavy pigment paint on very few colors and then i have to thin paint accordingly. Make sure you always clean your airbrush after use! I would certainly paint a few test sheets to get use to your equipment though, no sense in turning away fish, they are easy money and very fast turn around time. I bet i air brushed 20 sheets of paper before i did my first fish, but fish toneing is my favorite part in my shop.
Good luck with your troubles but i feel sure you will do just fine before to long.
For what it is worth, I would try a Badger Spirit…..around $100 and use lacquer (thinned, retarded) in it. I am sure in no time you will be painting the small spots and lines needed.
I use the single action Paasche with water based paint for broader coverage , sealer, highlighting fin rays………anything where a lot of detail is not needed. When I switched to lacquer with a double action, small tip airbrush, it opened up a whole new world.
Also what Jim said is true……….if you are on a real budget, the Harbor Freight brush works.
TCP Global also has a "Master" series that is quite inexpensive, and has a good feel to it.
Thanks for all your input it really helped, I started repainting a Brown Trout reproduction implementing the advice given and I can already see a big difference. Now I have a question about tip size and when using a smaller tip, does your paint have to be thinned more. Basically if I switch from a .50mm tip to a .30 mm tip does the paint have to be thinner than what I am shooting through the .50mm tip?
Yes. And please, try it with lacquer for detailing. I keep me water base brush totally separate from the detail, lacquer brush…..different solvents, not readily mixable.
Just try this and you will see a huge difference.
I asked because for my detail I plan on using my double action brush with a smaller tip. I struggle with things like halo's on trout.