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Noses

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by DogSoldierChick, Aug 4, 2014.

  1. My main problem on deer seems to be the nose and mouth. The mouth doesn't have a smooth round lips appearance. Is that achieved with clay or something else? Also does everyone use replacement noses? If so or if not how is the flared nose achieved especially on a basic form. I've got Rick's DVD and its great but I want to learn what to do to improve.

    Getting loft in the hair helped alot. Thanks for that! The mini flesher helped me get things smoother as well.
     
  2. Justin2011

    Justin2011 New Member

    You've got to make sure things are very thin. down to the hair follicles and it starts turning blue. I use mini flesher also but then I do my final fleshing on the lips nose nostrils and bottom lip with a skife knife! that gets it good and thin with minimal shrinkage and as long as your form is smooth should make things appear smooth. hope that helps
     

  3. verne

    verne Well-Known Member

    What you want does`nt come over night , at lease with me it did`nt . As you do more mounts and strive to work on those points you will get better ; Don`t always rely on others ; some times the fix to your problems lies With in you .
     
  4. critterstuffr

    critterstuffr New Member

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    It may sound funny but i think it all starts with the lip slot and dremeling the nose opening. Keep both as small as possible. I used to remove way to much of the nostril area and would loose the shape of the nose by making it to big. If you get a replacement nose they make a great reference for shaping the nose on the form. The lip slot should be as small as possible so the mouth looks as tightly closed as it can be. Sand everything smooth and just a small amount of clay on the mouth and nose area will help it appear soft and smooth. Don't get crazy with it the proper shape should be from the form itself the clay enhances what you have already done. The form itself being anatomically correct is a must. One of the best I've found is OTS. The skin seems to just fall into place when its right. Hope this helps.
     
  5. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I cut the nose off the form about 1 1/2 to 2 inches behind the nostril. Draw the inner detail on the back side and attack it from the front and back. Use a dremel and small files. I cut my lip slot almost straight up, not at a 45. As I come around to the front I change the angle to about 45 degrees. After I round the front I begin to increase the angle to almost straight up again. I was taught to do the slot at a 45 degree angle around the whole lip slot and it was never convincing to me. When I started going more straight up, it began to look more lifelike.
     
  6. quest

    quest Member

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    22
    Utah
    Are we talking commercial or competition? If were talking competition I use a reproduction nose. I would love to cast my own noses but I don't have that skill yet. The new nose from Head Quarters Taxidermy Supply is pretty good. I took the center piece out and used it in Aaron Connelly form Mule deer form came out great!.
     
  7. Thank you all. I know it comes with practice...
    I am talking commercial right now though I want to do my best either way...
    I do thin alot ill see if I can more without problems....I get it where I can see thru it. I've wondered if I leave too much lip to tuck..
    I use to use a dremel but lately I been doing it with a knife so the slot is tight. Ill get a nose reference tool soon.
     
  8. Paul B

    Paul B Active Member

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    I add clay around the upper lip line, thin lip area all around. Lower lip is almost always rebuilt. Almost all forms have a flared nostril opening, too big for my liking, even reproduction noses. Look at live deer, you can barely see a septum if at all.
     
  9. Is that the mini flesher that I sent you? I've been wondering if that worked out for you...
     
  10. Bill Yox

    Bill Yox Well-Known Member

    To me, its better with a smooth clean form without any clay. The lip slot needs to be cut accurately, and not too deep. I also dont over-do how thin, but more importantly, and I think most will agree, is to make it evenly thin, as opposed to super thin. Shaving out the nostril tubes on the skin, and correctly carving the inner nose on the form will do just fine. I do mine from the front with a specialized modeling tool. Dremels will eat too much foam too fast for those who arent sure what the shape should be, haha. If you choose to flare the nostrils, ie lift the wings, the septum will show.
     
  11. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I use a dremel on my noses and rarely have any issues. This last deer I did was going fine, almost finished, and then some thing happened, I hit an air pocket or a soft or hard spot, and it shot the dremel though the nose and totally ruined the right nostril. Thank God for Apoxie Sculpt. A dremel in the hands of a novice usually won't end up well. As far as clay goes, I use a small amount to sculpt the eye lids and feather the artificial ear butts to the form and that is all the clay I normally use on a game head. I figure the one who sculpted the form is better at sculpting than I am.
     
  12. ysb123

    ysb123 Member

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    0
    I was taught to really thin the lips eyes and nose, I was taught if you don't cut a hole every now and then your probably not getting it thin enough,, lol, as you get more experience the holes get fewer, they are repairable. don't be afraid to thin, I believe that's what make them look correct. don't get me wrong, don't butcher you cape, lol
     
  13. Justin2011

    Justin2011 New Member

    Try a broke jig saw blade to cut your lip slot that's what I've found works the best and go in a a 45 degree angle upward about a half inch deep.
     
  14. jim tucker

    jim tucker Active Member

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    1. Most important IMO is accurately tucking the lip skin. If you don't put things where they belong you will never get a good look.

    2. Use plenty of hide paste. Many use too little because they don't want it oozing out. After cutting the lip slot a I apply hide paste liberally along the face and nose areas. It wipes off.

    3. Don't dig out a lip SLOT...I cut the lip line with a Rapala filet knife very thinly.

    4. Tuck your lips wrong and you won't be able to get your nose in place correctly.
     
  15. Duckslayr

    Duckslayr Active Member

    I like to tuck my nose first. It's easier for me to get the markers lined up there first, and not over tuck the lips. Also, carefully test fit. If you have to stretch it, it won't look soft.
     
  16. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I do my nose first also.