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removable mounting stand ????

Discussion in 'Lifesize Mammals' started by falco, Sep 25, 2014.

  1. falco

    falco Trapping is fun

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    Folks… I am looking for different ideas about how can we make the mounting stands that bolts onto the concrete floor, removable ?
    I searched on here and I read that someone achieved that by pouring the concrete over a square tubing …etc… well it must be good to build your own shop I guess, but how about the existing concrete floor ?
    How can we make that happen.?
    Im planning to get a few stands bolted down on concrete , but geee it would so nice so I can put them there whenever I want them, in case a big object is being moved around there.

    I thought of making a lets say 3 inch diameter hole into the concrete pad and about 14 inch deep and insert a heavy duty steel pipe in there and have it flush by the concrete surface, then drop my mounting stand into it… well, then how to secure it ?. so it doenst spin or pull out with some wiggle ,push, and pull on the mount ?

    any ideas , pictures is highly appreciate it.
    cheers
    Falco.
     
  2. your on the right track falco,you should be able to put a thread inside the pipe,and thread on the pipe.then srew on and off.
    iam shore if you take it to a engineering shop they could it for you.
    you could put a plate on the end of the pipe with 4 holes,drill your 4 holes in the concrete,then thread the holes,screw in the screws then when required UN screw to remove.i know what your thinking you dont want a trip hazard in the shop,put it to the engineer he might have a better option ;)
     

  3. adkgirl

    adkgirl Active Member

    Use a rental core drill slightly larger than sleeve, pipe or coupling . then use non-shrinking grout to set in place ...Bill...
     
  4. Falco.. you have the right idea, just use square tubing not round pipe, I Have 3 in my floor,, yes I built it that way, but you can concrete drill a bigger hole , put the square tube in and cement around it, And 6'' deep will work, I hold moose heads on mine,
    mj
     
  5. falco

    falco Trapping is fun

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    Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate your input.

    some food for thoughts:
    - with square tubing, I will lose the ability to swing the mounts … I have a mobile stand that is well made by square tubing, and although I can spin the heads while I work but I wish a lot of times that I could swing them to left and right a little too..

    - Bolting onto the pre planted metal plate sounds good, as long as we can keep the in floor threads clean so we can keep using them (using a plastic cap maybe). but bolting and unbolting every time makes it slow.. and to my experience if its not easy and quick, after a while we tend to leave it there forever and get used to live with it and get used to it being there all the time.. so might as well bolt into concrete.

    - inserting our stand into a sleeve in the concrete freely, sounds really quick and awesome… and I like quick set ups, but Im thinking what about when we are adjusting the height while we work, lets say if we want to pull the moose/ elk head up to adjust the height, won't be pulling the whole thing out of the concrete :-\

    sorry guys, Im not being negative and winy , Im just thinking what might happen, thats why I ask you who have done it before so you can correct my way of thinking.
    cheers
     
  6. Option 3 build a bigger work shop,christmass is coming put it on the wish list :)
     
  7. AZ~Rich

    AZ~Rich " Africa" never fails to satisfy

    Maybe another way to do this is go down to Home Depot to their plumbing/pipe department and look for some remnant 2" galvanized pipe (already cut). Many times they have odd cut pieces from other customers. Look for one that is already threaded on one end and long enough for your stand height. You may need to have them cut one to get the right length. In the bins nearby look for a galvanized "pipe flange" threaded for 2" pipe. These will be ~6 in in diameter ~ 1.25in tall with four mounting holes for bolts. It is flat on one side which can either be bolted directly to the concrete floor with special floor bolts (drilled deep) or mounted onto a steel plate that is bolted to the concrete floor. The larger footprint of a larger steel plate will add stability but I think you will get enough stability using just the four flange holes. You would need to grind out a scallop on the pipes top to weld on your perpendicular short pipe; into which a smaller diameter 1 1/2" pipe is fitted for 360 deg movement and so on for the other 360 arm. I fabricate set screws using 7/16 bolts (fine machine thread) with a bar (handle) welded to bolt head. Into the short pipe wall I drill and tap for that thread plus align and weld a same sized nut to the exterior of the pipe. Helps if you can weld of course.
     
  8. Jimmy Rimrock

    Jimmy Rimrock Yeah, they come to snuff the rooster

    I had bolt down stands in my second shop. Base of mounting stand was about 20" in diameter, 1/4/ inch plate. 4 holes in the plate edges, each with a 1/2" bolt into a concrete anchor (lots of types available). I quickly got over any angst about not moving them. I liked them, unbolted them when I moved into the new shop. Which has heavy base movable stands. I have to put a stool the chin under elk/moose/eland when horn setting, but that's fine.

    Throw away any square stock stands you have, round is where its at. Mine are clamps instead of the "set screw" types, which never hold on anything bigger than a deer. Then they gall and seize in time. They take some effort to build, but are worth it.
     
  9. byrdman

    byrdman Well-Known Member

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    saw a nifty one at a local welding shop.......weld the square plate on bottom of stand like others have said.....then core-drill or saw cut floor and set in pour rock a set of large powerful magnets flush with floor....will hold stand very securely and no bolts,threads holes to fill with dirt,salt and crap to deal with......you can make a smaller stand for birds/fish check e-bay,craigs list or local junkyard for magnets
     
  10. Drill floor and insert 6-8 inch square tubing flush, and concrete in.. Now take next size square tubing, 3 feet long, that will slide into square tube in floor.. now slide your round mounting stand over the square 3 foot tube.... The round tube will spin around the square tube, and you can still lock it from spinning with bolts threaded in the round tube, pinching the square tube inside...
     
  11. I'm not sure exactly what anchors were used but my husband got them at lowes. He drilled two holes in the concrete that matched up with the two holes he drilled through my stand. In the concrete he pounded in some kind of threaded sleeve. Then a washer and bolt goes through the holes in my stand and gets tightened with a drill. The bolts can be unbolted and the stand removed without anything sticking up above the concrete.


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  12. falco

    falco Trapping is fun

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    thanks everyone ….. obviously different ways of doing it..
    I think I got a pretty good idea now .
    cheers to all.
     
  13. double shovel

    double shovel SilverWillowTaxidermy

    Exactly what I did, can be moved and the cement anchor is only 3" in the cement with about a 1/2"diameter bolt. mine has never moved when I get tourqing on a mount. Just had a cape buffalo on it last week and it didn't budge.
    Just make sure you don't have floor heat lines,lol
     
  14. Richard C

    Richard C Well-Known Member

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    When I worked at a shop in Florida 40 years ago the shop had in floor removeable floor stands all over the shop even in the drying room. I guess every 40 years we have to reinvent everything because we don't remember history. The Obama administration seems to be on a path to reinvent 3rd world status for the masses , can't wait !
     
  15. This is a simple process. Drill the hole in the slab then insert the corresponding metal sleeve you want to use insuring a good fit both in diameter and depth You will only get one shot to get it right, so pre fit everything exactly the way you want it before proceeding to the next steps.

    Once everything is the way you want it take your metal sleeve, sand it with a course 60 grit paper and wipe it down with Acetone. Plug the ends of the sleeve to make sure nothing enters the sleeve during installation.

    Take some Epo-Grip #30 liquid mix and brush it inside the hole in the slab. It will act as a penetrating primer for the concrete, depending on the how much space you need to fill around the sleeve will determine which Epo-Grip concrete repair material to use Epo-Grip #125 grout or Epo-Grip #30 Putty. Either way once you insert the sleeve into the slab position it exactly the way you want it. In 24 hours it will be there forever!

    Since these are Epoxy based products the temperature will play a huge factor in the cure time. During winter time a space heater and the use of a box with a heat lamp maybe necessary to ensure the reaction occurs as concrete slabs get cold, but concrete repairs in walk in coolers are not unheard, just have to work with the conditions.

    My suggestion is to do numerous sleeves to get best use of the material and to distribute the cost and work it as a assembly line as you will be under a time frame.

    If you want to discuss this more feel free to call me at 800-888-2467. If you wish to read up on the Epo-Grip #125 Grout, #30 Liquid and #30 Putty materials they can be found in the Industrial section of our website www.epogrip.com