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Question on sewing a potentially cut brisket, critter clay

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by Icarus, Nov 20, 2014.

  1. Icarus

    Icarus Something Witty

    Would you sew a cut-too-far-up brisket before or after tanning? I'm assuming after, but I recall something about stitching holes / wounds before sending to the tannery when I talked to a taxidermist some time back. I just really cannot recall correctly. I also haven't seen the cape yet so it might not be too horrible.

    I know it's going to be hell on earth microstitching it to get the hair patterns to lay just right (if it's as bad as it sounds) but I've been reading tutorials for the past 2 1/2 hours and this has yet to be mentioned.

    Also - how much critter clay typically goes in to one mount poundage wise? Want to make sure I do, in fact, buy enough the first time around.

    Thanks in advance everyone. I'm off to read some more ;D
  2. Part of the tanning process requires that they shave the hides down which would cut your stitches if you sewed it prior. As far as critter clay, if you just use it around the eyes it is just a little. If you use it for ear butts you will use a lot. Buy a 5 lb box. When done put it in the freezer until the next time.

  3. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    I use critter clay for the upper and lower eyelid only. One pound will do 10-15 deer. Use potters clay to set your eye into the socket, for your ear butts and skull cap work. On your brisket repair, mount the deer, and repair the brisket while it is on the mannikin, turned upside down. Larger areas may be sewn, while smaller cut areas are carded and held in place til the hide paste dries. Don't be afraid to use brads in repairing the brisket. They are easily hidden in the long hair areas.
  4. twinrivers

    twinrivers Active Member

    I would do your sewing after you get your hide back, you never know they may make more holes shaving. Never used a tannery but when I tan mine I do any sewing after tan and final shaving. The critter clay I have tried and didn't care for it but last time I bought it there was plenty for several as mentioned above. I personally sew all holes, I do not use pins, but it is personal preference. A hole is nothing to worry about in most cases because the hair will cover the repaired area(s). This time of the year the hair on whitetails is a little longer here in the Midwest, and if it is in the brisket area you should be fine. Don't sweat it too much, you will probably never even see it when your mount is complete.
  5. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    It's been years since I got a cape that DIDN'T have the brisket or arm pits cut up. I do as joeym suggested.
  6. Icarus

    Icarus Something Witty

    Thank you guys so much. I was afraid I'd have the hide tanned then get it back too thick to mount properly.

    I'll add potter's clay to my list. Must've missed that reading the tutorials last night.
  7. Personally, I wouldn't use any potters clay in or under the eye. It is a wetter clay and shrinks more that critter clay. I wouldn't want it behind the eye for sure.
  8. Icarus

    Icarus Something Witty

    You guys are the best. I got Rick Carter's A-Z Whitetail on the way as well and I'm tracking down a cape to mount up before I tackle the 24" necked beast (that's measured 3" down tight on the hair) coming down from KC.

    Looking through Gamehead of the Week at the moment. I just can't get behind the 6900 puff necks but the OTS forms look really nice. More research to be done for sure. Might have to post some pictures when I get the cape, he may or may not have one of those shorter, more rounded roman noses. Was hard to tell on the pictures.